Idk I haven’t come across that suffix. I tried searching it and it seems it’s a European code. Being in the US I guess I haven’t come across one. Maybe I have. It’s a good idea to get a cap reader though to make sure you’re within tolerance. And then if you come across a mystery part you can just test it.
Hi Anders, have built this but can't get it to work. Have checked out the schematic and everything looks good but I don't understand the power supply. The schematic references VREF (pin 6) but pin 6 is not used on the vero. Could this be an issue. Cheers mate
Pin 6 isn't used at VREFall. The VFREF junction is soleily connected to the 2x 5,1M resistors that is connected to the two Mu Amp channels. (Gate of Q5 and Q7).
Thank you Anders, again, for a wonderful pedal! Hope that you are feeling better! This is dne of the best distortion I ever heard! The mid control is the smartest tone control that I know! I used 2N2222A in metal can (all with hFE between 250 and 280) and 2N5457 (no selection). The tone trimpots sounds very well in the middle position and I think that I don't wire them as pots. I used 500kA for gain because I was too lazy to search for a 250kA :)
As far as I remember, both channels sounds approximately the same in my build, but I will recheck as soon I will have some free time. Anyway, the MS Gain trimpot adjusts the gain of the boost section, so I think that you can lower by tweaking it.
Built one for a friend with some value changes: - B25k instead of A25k (only had A20k) - As expected, the Mid control settings were mostly bunched up at the bottom & the center was shifted, but other than that it worked fine - 250k trimpot instead of 200k - 330k in place of 348k - 4.7M in place of 5.1M - 56k in place of 57.6k
This Mid control is absolutely the most interesting one I've ever played! Wide variety of options from super hollow to piercing mids, which play well into a range of Drive levels from barely noticeable to bordering on fuzz territory.
The size of the layout makes it a bit tricky to fit into a 1590B, so make sure you measure & adjust your 3PDT drill template accordingly.
They're optional resistors for the LED indicator lights (clr = color) for the effect and the boost channel. It's just so you don't have to add a resistor between the 9v power and the anode of the LED. Some people find it makes their builds a bit cleaner. Though, if you have pre-wired led bezels with a resistor already, or you just don't want to use them, you can just leave them out. 2.2k-4.7k are most commonly used values.
thank you for putting the trims on the edge... now i can use pots!! I was literally just ganna ask if you could do this haha... thank you thank you
ReplyDeleteAlso can you use a 1044 instead of the 1054 here?
DeleteYes, both 1044 and 7660S will work in there.
DeleteIncredible! Very excited to give this a shot.
ReplyDeleteIdk I haven’t come across that suffix. I tried searching it and it seems it’s a European code. Being in the US I guess I haven’t come across one. Maybe I have. It’s a good idea to get a cap reader though to make sure you’re within tolerance. And then if you come across a mystery part you can just test it.
ReplyDeleteSorry wrong thread
ReplyDeleteAha! Cheers tho!
ReplyDeleteCan you make the Cinnamon drive by Aclam? It looks like might be close match to this circuit with a fuzz somewhere added to the circuit.
ReplyDeleteI will definitely do Cinnamon (and Windmill...)if a schematic surfaces!
DeleteHi Anders, have built this but can't get it to work. Have checked out the schematic and everything looks good but I don't understand the power supply. The schematic references VREF (pin 6) but pin 6 is not used on the vero. Could this be an issue. Cheers mate
ReplyDeletePin 6 isn't used at VREFall. The VFREF junction is soleily connected to the 2x 5,1M resistors that is connected to the two Mu Amp channels. (Gate of Q5 and Q7).
DeleteOk mate, must be me. Will check again
DeleteThank you Anders, again, for a wonderful pedal! Hope that you are feeling better!
ReplyDeleteThis is dne of the best distortion I ever heard! The mid control is the smartest tone control that I know! I used 2N2222A in metal can (all with hFE between 250 and 280) and 2N5457 (no selection). The tone trimpots sounds very well in the middle position and I think that I don't wire them as pots. I used 500kA for gain because I was too lazy to search for a 250kA :)
No way! Amazing! I will tag.
DeleteAnd thank you, feeling much better, I even managed to build some stuff today...
Verified, superb!!! Now I know I've messed up
ReplyDeleteI am very glad to hear that you are feeling much better, Anders!
ReplyDeleteI'm winning!!!! Boost channel is mega loud but normal channel is real quiet - how does yours sound radubor?
ReplyDeleteAs far as I remember, both channels sounds approximately the same in my build, but I will recheck as soon I will have some free time. Anyway, the MS Gain trimpot adjusts the gain of the boost section, so I think that you can lower by tweaking it.
ReplyDeleteAlso, I used 4.7M resistors instead the 5.1M ones :)
ReplyDeleteThanks mate
ReplyDeleteAll sorted, I had a 3K6 resistor where there should be 36K resistor. Now its sounding superb - thanks guys!!!
ReplyDeleteguys, i need help.
ReplyDeletebuilt it with j201s - q4 and q6 dont get any voltage. checked my build like 10 times. i do not understand mu-amps since i never really got into them.
could it be possible that the J201s arent a replacement for the 5457 FETs?
now i am getting +17v on Q7 and Q5
DeleteWhat is you voltage at the cathode pf D3? If it isn't 17ish v, the charge pump could be the culprit.
DeleteSorry, I meant cathode of D2...S-)
Delete+17 indeed
Delete+17v on Q7 and Q5
8,5v on Q6 and Q4
had a dodgy switch
ReplyDeleteF me
Built one for a friend with some value changes:
ReplyDelete- B25k instead of A25k (only had A20k) - As expected, the Mid control settings were mostly bunched up at the bottom & the center was shifted, but other than that it worked fine
- 250k trimpot instead of 200k
- 330k in place of 348k
- 4.7M in place of 5.1M
- 56k in place of 57.6k
This Mid control is absolutely the most interesting one I've ever played! Wide variety of options from super hollow to piercing mids, which play well into a range of Drive levels from barely noticeable to bordering on fuzz territory.
The size of the layout makes it a bit tricky to fit into a 1590B, so make sure you measure & adjust your 3PDT drill template accordingly.
What do the resistors CLR1 and CLR2 mean/do?
ReplyDeleteThey're optional resistors for the LED indicator lights (clr = color) for the effect and the boost channel. It's just so you don't have to add a resistor between the 9v power and the anode of the LED. Some people find it makes their builds a bit cleaner. Though, if you have pre-wired led bezels with a resistor already, or you just don't want to use them, you can just leave them out. 2.2k-4.7k are most commonly used values.
Delete