Idk I haven’t come across that suffix. I tried searching it and it seems it’s a European code. Being in the US I guess I haven’t come across one. Maybe I have. It’s a good idea to get a cap reader though to make sure you’re within tolerance. And then if you come across a mystery part you can just test it.
Hi Anders, have built this but can't get it to work. Have checked out the schematic and everything looks good but I don't understand the power supply. The schematic references VREF (pin 6) but pin 6 is not used on the vero. Could this be an issue. Cheers mate
Pin 6 isn't used at VREFall. The VFREF junction is soleily connected to the 2x 5,1M resistors that is connected to the two Mu Amp channels. (Gate of Q5 and Q7).
Thank you Anders, again, for a wonderful pedal! Hope that you are feeling better! This is dne of the best distortion I ever heard! The mid control is the smartest tone control that I know! I used 2N2222A in metal can (all with hFE between 250 and 280) and 2N5457 (no selection). The tone trimpots sounds very well in the middle position and I think that I don't wire them as pots. I used 500kA for gain because I was too lazy to search for a 250kA :)
As far as I remember, both channels sounds approximately the same in my build, but I will recheck as soon I will have some free time. Anyway, the MS Gain trimpot adjusts the gain of the boost section, so I think that you can lower by tweaking it.
Built one for a friend with some value changes: - B25k instead of A25k (only had A20k) - As expected, the Mid control settings were mostly bunched up at the bottom & the center was shifted, but other than that it worked fine - 250k trimpot instead of 200k - 330k in place of 348k - 4.7M in place of 5.1M - 56k in place of 57.6k
This Mid control is absolutely the most interesting one I've ever played! Wide variety of options from super hollow to piercing mids, which play well into a range of Drive levels from barely noticeable to bordering on fuzz territory.
The size of the layout makes it a bit tricky to fit into a 1590B, so make sure you measure & adjust your 3PDT drill template accordingly.
They're optional resistors for the LED indicator lights (clr = color) for the effect and the boost channel. It's just so you don't have to add a resistor between the 9v power and the anode of the LED. Some people find it makes their builds a bit cleaner. Though, if you have pre-wired led bezels with a resistor already, or you just don't want to use them, you can just leave them out. 2.2k-4.7k are most commonly used values.
Hi. Reallybsyruggling to understand how to.wire up the two (or.more) switches when they run from the same board. Could anyone post how the lugs are wired on this pedal? I can't quite get which switch is feeding the other and then sending the overall output. Also struggling with the dba thee fuzz warr so hoping any advice in this one will lift a load of brain fog! Very grateful for any advice.
Thanks Tom. I typically use the Skreddy approach. How do the pedals send signal to each other or does all the signal flow through the bypass switch and the MS switch just connects with the board? Most advice I see is for 2 separate boards. Would it be:
Bypass
1. Led. 4. In Signal. 7. From MS 2. Gnd. 5. To board. 8. Out to amp 3 Gnd. 6. Gnd. 9. In signal
MS
1. Board 4. Vol 2. 7. ????? 2. Board 5. To bypass sw 8. GND 3. Board 4. MS vol 2. 9. MS LED
As long as you follow the numbering Tom mentioned there's nothing to think about, just follow the notes on what goes where for the MS switch and wire up your bypass switch which ever way you choose
Nailed it! Thanks for your advice. I kept thinking there was some complex solution but simple , as always, wins the day. I have spent so much time looking for this answer Huge high fives both!
A heads up to anyone building this in the future, to watch the pinouts if using TO92 packaged 2n2222a's (Q1, Q2 & q3) as they were reversed from what is shown in the layout. I'm not sure if they differ from different manufacturers as I've always bought from the same store. At least it didn't set me back much time, but still surprisingly more time than it should have, being my 119th build since 2022 according to the notes in my phone. ah well, the odd mistake keeps one vigilant. it sounds really good and now I'm probably going to play Beatles songs all night, and start the Mocker Fuzz in the morning!
Hoping someone can help - I'm a bit confused over the bypass LED. I use the skreddy method for offboard wiring and don't understand how to wire it on this. Positive comes off the board, but then how would it connect to Lug 1 on the 3PDT? Does it need to connect to the DC jack? Any advice would be truly appreciated!
The LED positive wire goes to the LED +ve leg, the LED -ve leg goes to your footswitch as normal (check the notes underneath for the MS Footswitch -ve leg)
thank you for putting the trims on the edge... now i can use pots!! I was literally just ganna ask if you could do this haha... thank you thank you
ReplyDeleteAlso can you use a 1044 instead of the 1054 here?
DeleteYes, both 1044 and 7660S will work in there.
DeleteIncredible! Very excited to give this a shot.
ReplyDeleteIdk I haven’t come across that suffix. I tried searching it and it seems it’s a European code. Being in the US I guess I haven’t come across one. Maybe I have. It’s a good idea to get a cap reader though to make sure you’re within tolerance. And then if you come across a mystery part you can just test it.
ReplyDeleteSorry wrong thread
ReplyDeleteAha! Cheers tho!
ReplyDeleteCan you make the Cinnamon drive by Aclam? It looks like might be close match to this circuit with a fuzz somewhere added to the circuit.
ReplyDeleteI will definitely do Cinnamon (and Windmill...)if a schematic surfaces!
DeleteHi Anders, have built this but can't get it to work. Have checked out the schematic and everything looks good but I don't understand the power supply. The schematic references VREF (pin 6) but pin 6 is not used on the vero. Could this be an issue. Cheers mate
ReplyDeletePin 6 isn't used at VREFall. The VFREF junction is soleily connected to the 2x 5,1M resistors that is connected to the two Mu Amp channels. (Gate of Q5 and Q7).
DeleteOk mate, must be me. Will check again
DeleteThank you Anders, again, for a wonderful pedal! Hope that you are feeling better!
ReplyDeleteThis is dne of the best distortion I ever heard! The mid control is the smartest tone control that I know! I used 2N2222A in metal can (all with hFE between 250 and 280) and 2N5457 (no selection). The tone trimpots sounds very well in the middle position and I think that I don't wire them as pots. I used 500kA for gain because I was too lazy to search for a 250kA :)
No way! Amazing! I will tag.
DeleteAnd thank you, feeling much better, I even managed to build some stuff today...
Verified, superb!!! Now I know I've messed up
ReplyDeleteI am very glad to hear that you are feeling much better, Anders!
ReplyDeleteI'm winning!!!! Boost channel is mega loud but normal channel is real quiet - how does yours sound radubor?
ReplyDeleteAs far as I remember, both channels sounds approximately the same in my build, but I will recheck as soon I will have some free time. Anyway, the MS Gain trimpot adjusts the gain of the boost section, so I think that you can lower by tweaking it.
ReplyDeleteAlso, I used 4.7M resistors instead the 5.1M ones :)
ReplyDeleteThanks mate
ReplyDeleteAll sorted, I had a 3K6 resistor where there should be 36K resistor. Now its sounding superb - thanks guys!!!
ReplyDeleteguys, i need help.
ReplyDeletebuilt it with j201s - q4 and q6 dont get any voltage. checked my build like 10 times. i do not understand mu-amps since i never really got into them.
could it be possible that the J201s arent a replacement for the 5457 FETs?
now i am getting +17v on Q7 and Q5
DeleteWhat is you voltage at the cathode pf D3? If it isn't 17ish v, the charge pump could be the culprit.
DeleteSorry, I meant cathode of D2...S-)
Delete+17 indeed
Delete+17v on Q7 and Q5
8,5v on Q6 and Q4
had a dodgy switch
ReplyDeleteF me
Built one for a friend with some value changes:
ReplyDelete- B25k instead of A25k (only had A20k) - As expected, the Mid control settings were mostly bunched up at the bottom & the center was shifted, but other than that it worked fine
- 250k trimpot instead of 200k
- 330k in place of 348k
- 4.7M in place of 5.1M
- 56k in place of 57.6k
This Mid control is absolutely the most interesting one I've ever played! Wide variety of options from super hollow to piercing mids, which play well into a range of Drive levels from barely noticeable to bordering on fuzz territory.
The size of the layout makes it a bit tricky to fit into a 1590B, so make sure you measure & adjust your 3PDT drill template accordingly.
What do the resistors CLR1 and CLR2 mean/do?
ReplyDeleteThey're optional resistors for the LED indicator lights (clr = color) for the effect and the boost channel. It's just so you don't have to add a resistor between the 9v power and the anode of the LED. Some people find it makes their builds a bit cleaner. Though, if you have pre-wired led bezels with a resistor already, or you just don't want to use them, you can just leave them out. 2.2k-4.7k are most commonly used values.
DeleteHi. Reallybsyruggling to understand how to.wire up the two (or.more) switches when they run from the same board. Could anyone post how the lugs are wired on this pedal? I can't quite get which switch is feeding the other and then sending the overall output. Also struggling with the dba thee fuzz warr so hoping any advice in this one will lift a load of brain fog! Very grateful for any advice.
ReplyDeleteThe lugs are numbered:
Delete1 4 7
2 5 8
3 6 9
The bypass switch is wired up using whatever method you prefer. The Skreddy method is popular.
This comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteThanks Tom. I typically use the Skreddy approach. How do the pedals send signal to each other or does all the signal flow through the bypass switch and the MS switch just connects with the board? Most advice I see is for 2 separate boards. Would it be:
DeleteBypass
1. Led. 4. In Signal. 7. From MS
2. Gnd. 5. To board. 8. Out to amp
3 Gnd. 6. Gnd. 9. In signal
MS
1. Board 4. Vol 2. 7. ?????
2. Board 5. To bypass sw 8. GND
3. Board 4. MS vol 2. 9. MS LED
As long as you follow the numbering Tom mentioned there's nothing to think about, just follow the notes on what goes where for the MS switch and wire up your bypass switch which ever way you choose
ReplyDeleteNailed it! Thanks for your advice. I kept thinking there was some complex solution but simple , as always, wins the day. I have spent so much time looking for this answer Huge high fives both!
ReplyDeleteA heads up to anyone building this in the future, to watch the pinouts if using TO92 packaged 2n2222a's (Q1, Q2 & q3) as they were reversed from what is shown in the layout. I'm not sure if they differ from different manufacturers as I've always bought from the same store. At least it didn't set me back much time, but still surprisingly more time than it should have, being my 119th build since 2022 according to the notes in my phone. ah well, the odd mistake keeps one vigilant. it sounds really good and now I'm probably going to play Beatles songs all night, and start the Mocker Fuzz in the morning!
ReplyDeleteHoping someone can help - I'm a bit confused over the bypass LED. I use the skreddy method for offboard wiring and don't understand how to wire it on this. Positive comes off the board, but then how would it connect to Lug 1 on the 3PDT? Does it need to connect to the DC jack? Any advice would be truly appreciated!
ReplyDeleteThe LED positive wire goes to the LED +ve leg, the LED -ve leg goes to your footswitch as normal (check the notes underneath for the MS Footswitch -ve leg)
DeleteThanks so much!
Delete