Hi!. No, the switch is for symmetrical or asymmetrcal clipping in both clipping stages. Switch off is symmetrical LED clipping, when it's switch on D5 and D6 is in circuit and bypasses two of the LED's (D1 and D3) due lower voltage drop. The result is asymmetrical clipping.
Hey, man. So far, I've built an EHX Green Muff, LSTR, Hoof, Coven Hoof, Musket, and the Ultra Stoner. I was wondering if this one is different enough from those to be worth checking out.
I have also built the same muff variants as you have and while I'm into stoner and doom stuff at the moment I really think this one is justified as another big muff build. LOTS of gain, mids and bass is solid and it can get quite gnarly. Perfect for slow droney stuff. Think a more extreme variant of BAT Pharaoh.
That's good to hear. Another doom pedal is always welcome. On, a side note, if you happen to have a Bazz Fuzz around, throw that into the Revv G4. Holy hell! It's crushing.
All right, just got this finished up and into the test enclosure. It's a beast. Even with the gain down, it's still angry. lol I love it. Sounds good with a Tentacle too. I used PN3565's.
This is random. I’m looking to build 2 muffs in 1 box. 2 separate sets of controls. 2 vol, 2 tone , 2 sust. 1 foot switch. I want to be able to run the circuits in parallel. I would mod the tone stacks. How would I go about connecting the 2 circuits. Idiotbox makes a pedal like this called the Blackout. I could just buy one and probably will but there no fun in that. I would like to be able to do it with other circuits as well. I don’t want to switch between them. Either this or the Green ussian muff look to be good candidates.
Not sure how Idiotbox Blackout is made but it sounds that you need an active parallel mixer circuit...like this one: https://dirtboxlayouts.blogspot.com/2021/01/jmk-paralyzer.html Depending on the size of your enlosure it might be a tight fit with two others circuits but MTK built built and verified it and says it works great.
This thing sounds huge, I ended up making a few changes to make the most out of it:
- Used 2.7nF and 100K for the high pass. Used B100K for tone. Allows for some high end and brings back some scoop in some settings. -I replaced both resistors across Q1's and Q4's emmiters to ground with 100R and 1.5K respectively. Still plenty of lot of volume and maybe more gain, but I did this to rectify some bias issue, that was giving me some gating and compromising sustain.
Thanks for the layout and the recommendation, it was spot on as this build is great!
Built it, fired up right away, loads of gain on this one. Probably the most dooming muff I have tried. A lot thicker and more gainy than the hizumitas but I think a little lower output volume. I used a 2 position DPDT for the clipping switch, but do not notice the slightest difference in sound. Same goes with the high and tone pot, does not have the usual big muff tone stack sweep. Not sure if it is just my build, ill go over shorts and build another and see if it is an issue on my end.
I built this long ago - I remember not hearing much difference with the clipping (I had to look at the second set of LEDs to make sure they were engaged) the "high" is super subtle and really only works for downtuned guitars and bass, abs even then it just makes things a little less "muddy". I found it to be pretty useless, personally.
Also - if you want to try another super high gain muff variant, but one that has a very useful tone control, take a look at the Keeley Rotten Apple. There's a verified layout on here and I can't recommend it enough.
Does the DPDT just switch between different Q1 caps? Or am I looking at this wrong...
ReplyDeletethanks for an outstanding resource!!
Hi!. No, the switch is for symmetrical or asymmetrcal clipping in both clipping stages. Switch off is symmetrical LED clipping, when it's switch on D5 and D6 is in circuit and bypasses two of the LED's (D1 and D3) due lower voltage drop. The result is asymmetrical clipping.
DeleteGlad you like the library!
This comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteHey, man. So far, I've built an EHX Green Muff, LSTR, Hoof, Coven Hoof, Musket, and the Ultra Stoner. I was wondering if this one is different enough from those to be worth checking out.
ReplyDeleteI have also built the same muff variants as you have and while I'm into stoner and doom stuff at the moment I really think this one is justified as another big muff build. LOTS of gain, mids and bass is solid and it can get quite gnarly. Perfect for slow droney stuff. Think a more extreme variant of BAT Pharaoh.
DeleteThat's good to hear. Another doom pedal is always welcome. On, a side note, if you happen to have a Bazz Fuzz around, throw that into the Revv G4. Holy hell! It's crushing.
DeleteAll right, just got this finished up and into the test enclosure. It's a beast. Even with the gain down, it's still angry. lol I love it. Sounds good with a Tentacle too. I used PN3565's.
ReplyDeletehttps://i.imgur.com/BWvlZvB.jpg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w3f_ttQP7Po
Sounds and looks great as usual. I think a need to build a Green Ringer/Tentacle soon,,,,
DeleteThis is random. I’m looking to build 2 muffs in 1 box. 2 separate sets of controls. 2 vol, 2 tone , 2 sust. 1 foot switch. I want to be able to run the circuits in parallel. I would mod the tone stacks. How would I go about connecting the 2 circuits. Idiotbox makes a pedal like this called the Blackout. I could just buy one and probably will but there no fun in that. I would like to be able to do it with other circuits as well. I don’t want to switch between them. Either this or the Green ussian muff look to be good candidates.
ReplyDeleteNot sure how Idiotbox Blackout is made but it sounds that you need an active parallel mixer circuit...like this one:
Deletehttps://dirtboxlayouts.blogspot.com/2021/01/jmk-paralyzer.html
Depending on the size of your enlosure it might be a tight fit with two others circuits but MTK built built and verified it and says it works great.
Very cool. I will give this a go on the bench . Thanks for the direction.
ReplyDeleteThis thing sounds huge, I ended up making a few changes to make the most out of it:
ReplyDelete- Used 2.7nF and 100K for the high pass. Used B100K for tone. Allows for some high end and brings back some scoop in some settings.
-I replaced both resistors across Q1's and Q4's emmiters to ground with 100R and 1.5K respectively. Still plenty of lot of volume and maybe more gain, but I did this to rectify some bias issue, that was giving me some gating and compromising sustain.
Thanks for the layout and the recommendation, it was spot on as this build is great!
Is the Switch a 3 position or 2 position?
ReplyDelete2 position on/on - looks like it toggles in some LEDs for symmetrical/asymmetrical clip options.
DeleteBuilt it, fired up right away, loads of gain on this one. Probably the most dooming muff I have tried. A lot thicker and more gainy than the hizumitas but I think a little lower output volume.
ReplyDeleteI used a 2 position DPDT for the clipping switch, but do not notice the slightest difference in sound. Same goes with the high and tone pot, does not have the usual big muff tone stack sweep. Not sure if it is just my build, ill go over shorts and build another and see if it is an issue on my end.
I built this long ago - I remember not hearing much difference with the clipping (I had to look at the second set of LEDs to make sure they were engaged) the "high" is super subtle and really only works for downtuned guitars and bass, abs even then it just makes things a little less "muddy". I found it to be pretty useless, personally.
DeleteAlso - if you want to try another super high gain muff variant, but one that has a very useful tone control, take a look at the Keeley Rotten Apple. There's a verified layout on here and I can't recommend it enough.
Delete