YAFTM. Uploaded because the Octave control, it was requested and FTMs are awesome.
Schematic by Bernard d'Uur is avaiable HERE.
YAFTM. Uploaded because the Octave control, it was requested and FTMs are awesome.
Schematic by Bernard d'Uur is avaiable HERE.
Welcome back. Hope you had a nice vacation.
ReplyDeleteThank you! Over a month screen detox. But it's nice to be back....
DeleteHey Fuzzhead. According to the link above there is a Q5 in the upper left of the schematic?. Is that what's wrong with the circuit?
DeleteThat is for millenium bypass switching. I almost always omit it in favour for true bypass switching.
DeleteEverything works and sounds massive. However, it doesn't produce the over-the-top octave that I would expect from a Tone Machine. Also, curiously, it begins to gate when the octave blend is rolled off. I'll have to investigate when I have more time. It seems to have maybe a touch more fuzz and the tone cuts nicely.
ReplyDeleteThanks Tom!
DeleteTagged.
Sorry, I didn't mean to imply that it was verified. It's working but with bugs. I've gone over the schematic and all I could see this time over was the 10uf connected to switch 2 should be 100uf. This version of the FTM allegedly relies heavily upon the diodes and doesn't do much of anything with them lifted. The non-octave part of the signal sounds gated. I'll have a chance to debug tomorrow. Report back if I discover anything. Seems like a nice fuzz though. Hopefully user error.
DeleteTom, I'm getting some weirdness like you as well. I changed the 10uf to 100uf. When I have the toggle (I didn't use a footswitch) to connect the octave pot, the circuit works and octave pot works. But not when the toggle is clicked off. So I unsoldered the toggle and when I touch switch 1 wire with switch 2, the circuit works again. But when I touch switch 1 wire (or switch 2 wire? Been a long day) with switch 5 wire I get that really bad gating you spoke of. I hope I made sense and I hope i got that info correct. My brain is completely out of gas. I hope yours is firing and can sort it and tomorrow get this bad boy boxed and put to use!
DeleteYeah, I've looked over the schematic several times and nothing is jumping out at me. I assumed it was my build but if you're getting the same result, maybe not. It makes you question everything when they don't work.
DeleteWhen I move the negative leg of C5 up a row it seems to short the octave and I get a rich muff-like fuzz but no octave. Otherwise the octave operates without the common but as you roll the octave off there is no foundational fuzz. It seems like everything is there but the switching doesn't work.
DeleteI can't wait to try that tomorrow. I was looking again at the schematic and there's a dotted line from the B100k octave pot switch leading up to and Q5 with LED and a switch there. I'm not very well versed in schematics so this might be stupid, but could that possibly be something needed for this fuzz/octave footswitch to work properly? Please forgive me again if this is totally wrong, I'm not a electric wizard yet, but I'm trying to get there. Haha
DeleteNo it isn't a solution. Don't bother moving C5. The switch is a dpdt so it's just two spdt switches side by side. The above markings are simply illustrating the three lugs (or two here) that are controlling the LED. The layout matches the schematic overall, as far as I can see.
DeleteI'm going to give it one more try when I get time but if it's still a fail, I plan to take the Foxx TM diagram and try adding the octave pot myself and see what happens. I hope Fuzzhead can sort out the issue because this is a beautiful layout.
ReplyDeleteI'm just getting into building pedals has a hobby, I have followed a few circuits on here and worked perfectly but I keep seeing CLR which I'm not sure what it is, would someone be willing to explain this for me please
ReplyDeleteCLR means "current limiting resistor". In this case its the resistor for your indicator light that goes on your box. It can be whatever value resistor you prefer. Higher the resistor value, the dimmer the LED. and vise versa. A good value to start with is 4.7k
Deletethanks rob
DeleteR12 needs to connect to D3 not D4. Remove the 100k in row 4, connect it to the anode of D3 to ground. Either from D11-J11 or from D11 to B11. Seems to work. Thanks for the layout. I think you can tag it.
ReplyDeleteWell spotted. Moved R12 and realized R10 was missing. Addded it and tagged the layout.
DeleteThanks for sptting this, a bit rusty here...
Excellent! Thanks dude.
Delete