Well, build it and... the oscar goes for you. Perfect. Spot on! I've got no words to describe my gratitude. Now the sky is the limit. And always remember: You're only warming up to Monterey!... :O)
PS: I dont't have that shitty LM137000. Otherwise, I would take care of Grand Orbiter in a minute. Cheers!
Thank you so much for your work. Thank you. Thank you. Finished This tonight. It worked perfectly first go. It Sounds absolutely incredible. I didnt think i needed another EQD squirrely modulation pedal. I was so Wrong. I highly reccomend this build. Thanks again.
Thanks man! This worked perfectly and sounds amazing! Alex, yeah, you need a esterero jack in order to connect the rate led. I realized about this after I completed the pedal. Lol
I'm guessing no one will read this but I can't get the dimension control to respond. Otherwise it sounds great but the dimension control does nada. Tried building the Gravity wave and had no luck. This one might have to be a five know machine. Drag though. I want it to be right. So frustrating.
I build it, and i got a distortion noise with that one. IF you look at the schematic again. the 3,3 nf needs to changed to 330nf. There must be also a cut between the 1K and the 3,3 nf(330nf). The 1 K from Dim goes directly to pin 14, without the 33k between. Instead the 33k goes from pin 14 to another 33k, that goes to pin 13. Also the 33k and 10k on pin 16 and 15 are mixed up.
Hi I built this the other day but had a few issues. Not sure if its issues with the layout as it does match the schematic, or if its just my build but Ive managed to correct it all anyway. If anyone has the same problems heres how i fixed mine.
So to start everything worked perfect apart from the dimention pot had almost no effect and it was very crunchy sounding when playing any harder than super light. With the volume rolled back about a quater turn it cleaned up real nice but obviously was lower than unity.
So to get rid of the crunch i started by trying other op amps with little to no effect so i ended up adding a passive volume control with treble bleed mod to preserve the top end, then added an LPB-1 to the out put to bring it back up to unity. Crunch gone. Awesome.
So then the Dimention pot. After alot of tinkering i settled with this soulution. swap R9, 8.2k for a 2.2ohm iirc (it was something very small), and swap R4, 33k (going to 2399's pin 15) for a 47k and add the 500ohm between Dimention lug1 and Dimention 1 on the board, as it started doing some weird 'not the good noisey' shit when fully CCW. This just lands it dangerously close to self osscilation without becoming uncontrollable. Perfect!
Just finished this, was kind of shocked when it worked right out of the gate. By far my biggest layout yet vero or pcb. Haven’t had much time to play with it yet. Basically just turned various knobs to see what kind of crazy sounds it could make. And does it ever. Thanks for the layout I can see myself wasting hours making noise with this thing.
Replace the 10k coming off pin 1 of the tl074 with a dpdt. Put the 10k on and the other two lugs leave empty. Cuts out the dry signal for some a vibrato switch and is useful for some of the weird noises you can get that just don’t quite sound right with the dry signal in there.
Built - worked perfect first go. Anyone complaining about the layout needs to double check their work - this sounds and behave exactly like my authentic unit. Bit of a big layout but definitely not un-doable.
I beg to differ, Orion - there absolutely IS an error on this layout relating to the Dimension pot (it's actually delay feedback) that keeps it from working properly. To fix this, follow Dimension 3 to the 1u in the bottom right corner. The 1k connected to the positive side of that 1u is supposed to connect to Pin 14 of the PT2399, but it doesn't.
Remove the end of that 1k that is connected to the three 33k's and the 3.3n. Now, connect that to the row with Pin 14 of the PT2399 (Row S, Column 14). While you're at it, replace the 1k with a 10k to decrease oscillation, you'll be glad you did;)
The 'original' schematic (created by Madbean for his Gravity Wave clone, I believe) *does* state 330n instead of 3.3n; lowering the cap was a modification from Tagboard Layouts to keep the oscillation down as it runs away too easily. Increasing the 1k to 10k is just yet another way to reduce feedback further.
I'll make these changes and see if it sounds any different, but for what it's worth, I can't hear anything at all wrong with the way dimension functions currently.
I'll take my humble pie warm, thanks. CJones is correct. Remove the 33k coming from pin 14, remove cut S16 - move 33k to where 1k is currently connected at T+W 20 - move 1k (10k suggested) to S + W 16. Down to 55 cuts!
Awesome! After some coffee and a fresh set of eyes I've noticed an additional error, also pointed out by "Unknown" above. The 10k and 33k on Rows Q and R around Column 11 should be switched with one another. This may affect the response of the Dimension pot, so the 10k sub I suggested above shouldn't be necessary any more.
So this didn’t look right to me. That 33k shouldn’t be where the 1k is in the layout. As stated above 1k from s14-w16 and you can just leave that 33k alone. Along with the resistor swap on rows q and r made my dimension pot work. And just barely hit a self oscillation thing. I’ll try the 470n change next before I box this.
Good catch. Swapped the 33k and 10k - changed resistor back to 1k - perfect. Per a suggestion in the MadBean gravity wave discussion, replaced 470n with 4.7uf to get better range out of the rate. Used a non polarized MLCC, but if you use polarized cap,anode goes to pin 7.Sounded good before - sounds perfect now
Sorry locrian, gotta disagree. That 1 k needs to connect directly to pin 14 - the signal should not pass in series through the 33k. Check the pedslpcb schematic https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/seahorse/
That way makes sense. The 33k is running in parallel though to the 470p in the layout with the cut and the link. Moving the 1k to w16 and running it to s14 preserves the 33k in parallel and links pin 14 to the dimension 3 via the 1u and 1k resistor. Unless I’m completely off which is altogether possible but the initial comment of moving the 33k to where the 1k originally was was for sure not right
Ugh...final addendum - swap 10k and 33k rows q and r, move 33k on pin 14 to stand parallel to the 470pf cap on pins 13 and 14, then you can remove the link at s and t 21, and couple the 1 k resistor between the positive leg of the 1uf and pin 14.
That would work. If I hadn’t built it yet and already had everything laid out. I would just move the cut at s16 to s18 connect the 1k from s16 to w16. Run the 33k from s17 to s20 and leave the link. Just cause I wouldn’t want a standing resistor.
Would be awesome if the layout could get updated to reflect the correct way. Super happy you cjoneeplay had this discussion I just fwas going to box mine up with the dimension pot not really doing anything. Seems way better now.
I tried two versions of this before giving up and getting one from pcbguitarmania. If you need a schematic to look at, check out the one for the "sea device". It works as it should.
I’ll mess around with mine some more but i think it sounds right. The only oroblem I had with mine was it didn’t seem like the dimension pot did much of anything. And the changes discussed above have made it so it does. Madbean on diystomp mentioned lowering the value of the 8.2k to increase self oscillation and after making the changes I tried that. Tried a 2.7 for S&g and it self oscillates pretty quick might try a 6.8 or 7.5 there.
I’ll have to check it out. I’ve got a pcb for a Julia clone coming right now from pedalpcb, mainly just because I can get the pcb in a 125b. This thing is a great little weird box though. All my flip flopping and resoldering I think my rate pot has a bad connection now. Lol. I’ll never get this thing in the box.
Just finished this one and buy was it a bugger did all the mods in previous posts and the dim pot still did nothing untill i realised i had got dim 1 and dim 2 the wrong way round
Just finished, its sounding pretty wild! I think I've got the mods right from here. There's a bit of a whine like a siren in time with the rate and the dimension pot when set to min turns the volume to zero. Does that sound like everyone else or have I missed something?
For anyone looking to build this, I've considered the comments above, checked this layout against the schematic, and then listed some details below that might help. There seems to be some confusion here about the schematic that this layout is taken from (or maybe it's just me). I believe this is based on PedalPCB's "Seahorse" build, so know that the following change documentation is based upon that schematic. After making these changes, I have a build that appears to function like the original.
C10: 10nF to 47nF. Depth 1 and Intensity 1 trade places on the board. Depth 2 and Intensity 2 trade places on the board. Depth 3 and Intensity 3 trade places on the board. R9: move from column 14 to column 16. Move cut W15 to W13. R7: move from column 20 to W14/S14. R4: change from 10k to 33k. R5: change from 33k to 10k. C20: no change from 470n, but note that while the build sheet specifies a non-polarized 470n, the schematic shows a 4.7uF.
Although I didn't do it to my build, I think it would be worth it to add an extra column on the left side of the layout to give a little more space for C14 and C18. This would also make room to add R35 back into the build for the on/off LED. Fuzzhead, thanks for this layout, it's brilliant!
Hi Will! Thanks for this. I have a couple of questions if that’s ok? Could you tell me how you’re numbering the components? I cannot figure out which resistor is R9 etc. You mention moving the cut at W15 to W13 but that is where the 100nf is connecting to the board. Sorry if I’m just being dumb. I just don’t want to start until I know what’s what! Cheers!!
Sure. You'd definitely have some confusion, because I mis-referenced the schematic in my last post! What I should have written is that I believe this build references the Sea-Device schematic found at pcb guitar mania, NOT the seahorse schematic at PedalPCB. See https://pcbguitarmania.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Sea-Device-Building-Docs.pdf. You'll find component labels there that match my build notes. From this schematic, R9 is the 33k resistor between T and X on column 14. Moving it to column 16 allows room for R7 (the 1k resister between W and T on column 20) to be moved to column 14 (where R9 was). This also requires moving cut W15 to W13, so that R7 can connect on the appropriate rows. That 100nF cap (C5) connects on rows V and X, and you'll be moving the cut underneath it on row W. Sorry about that bad reference, clearly I'm the dumb one here!
Wow, man! Now you're getting complicated!... :O) I'll try it one of these days.
ReplyDeleteWell, build it and... the oscar goes for you. Perfect. Spot on! I've got no words to describe my gratitude. Now the sky is the limit. And always remember: You're only warming up to Monterey!... :O)
ReplyDeletePS: I dont't have that shitty LM137000. Otherwise, I would take care of Grand Orbiter in a minute. Cheers!
Haha, thanks mate. Glad you like it and thanks for tackling this one. I'll tag it right away.
DeleteFinished the board of Grand Orbiter and will wire it up and test it tomorrow.
Anybody getting ticking noises?
ReplyDeleteI think that I see 26 links.
ReplyDeleteAm I right?
2 years later I counted 4x I got 26 everytime. Maybe the double link only counts as 2 instead of 3?
DeleteThank you so much for your work. Thank you. Thank you. Finished This tonight. It worked perfectly first go. It Sounds absolutely incredible. I didnt think i needed another EQD squirrely modulation pedal. I was so Wrong. I highly reccomend this build. Thanks again.
ReplyDeleteSrry maybe a newbie question but I need a stereoinput jack connector for this right? 'led- to input jack ring'
ReplyDeleteThanks man! This worked perfectly and sounds amazing! Alex, yeah, you need a esterero jack in order to connect the rate led. I realized about this after I completed the pedal. Lol
ReplyDeleteI'm guessing no one will read this but I can't get the dimension control to respond. Otherwise it sounds great but the dimension control does nada. Tried building the Gravity wave and had no luck. This one might have to be a five know machine. Drag though. I want it to be right. So frustrating.
ReplyDeleteI build it, and i got a distortion noise with that one.
ReplyDeleteIF you look at the schematic again. the 3,3 nf needs to changed to 330nf. There must be also a cut between the 1K and the 3,3 nf(330nf). The 1 K from Dim goes directly to pin 14, without the 33k between. Instead the 33k goes from pin 14 to another 33k, that goes to pin 13.
Also the 33k and 10k on pin 16 and 15 are mixed up.
I did those changes, and it works fine now.
I'll take a look at it but I can't see any 330nF cap in the schematic?
Deletehttps://www.pedalpcb.com/docs/SeaHorse.pdf
ah ok i see, with the 330nf... i just got another schematic. i dont know whats right. but it dont make any difference in my build.
DeleteI mixed up the 5k and 50 k pot ha. I’m dumm. Sounds excellent. Really love this one.
ReplyDeleteHi
ReplyDeleteI built this the other day but had a few issues. Not sure if its issues with the layout as it does match the schematic, or if its just my build but Ive managed to correct it all anyway. If anyone has the same problems heres how i fixed mine.
So to start everything worked perfect apart from the dimention pot had almost no effect and it was very crunchy sounding when playing any harder than super light. With the volume rolled back about a quater turn it cleaned up real nice but obviously was lower than unity.
So to get rid of the crunch i started by trying other op amps with little to no effect so i ended up adding a passive volume control with treble bleed mod to preserve the top end, then added an LPB-1 to the out put to bring it back up to unity. Crunch gone. Awesome.
So then the Dimention pot. After alot of tinkering i settled with this soulution. swap R9, 8.2k for a 2.2ohm iirc (it was something very small), and swap R4, 33k (going to 2399's pin 15) for a 47k and add the 500ohm between Dimention lug1 and Dimention 1 on the board, as it started doing some weird 'not the good noisey' shit when fully CCW.
This just lands it dangerously close to self osscilation without becoming uncontrollable. Perfect!
Just finished this, was kind of shocked when it worked right out of the gate. By far my biggest layout yet vero or pcb. Haven’t had much time to play with it yet. Basically just turned various knobs to see what kind of crazy sounds it could make. And does it ever. Thanks for the layout I can see myself wasting hours making noise with this thing.
ReplyDeleteNice little mod…
ReplyDeleteReplace the 10k coming off pin 1 of the tl074 with a dpdt. Put the 10k on and the other two lugs leave empty. Cuts out the dry signal for some a vibrato switch and is useful for some of the weird noises you can get that just don’t quite sound right with the dry signal in there.
Built - worked perfect first go. Anyone complaining about the layout needs to double check their work - this sounds and behave exactly like my authentic unit. Bit of a big layout but definitely not un-doable.
ReplyDeleteI beg to differ, Orion - there absolutely IS an error on this layout relating to the Dimension pot (it's actually delay feedback) that keeps it from working properly. To fix this, follow Dimension 3 to the 1u in the bottom right corner. The 1k connected to the positive side of that 1u is supposed to connect to Pin 14 of the PT2399, but it doesn't.
ReplyDeleteRemove the end of that 1k that is connected to the three 33k's and the 3.3n. Now, connect that to the row with Pin 14 of the PT2399 (Row S, Column 14). While you're at it, replace the 1k with a 10k to decrease oscillation, you'll be glad you did;)
The 'original' schematic (created by Madbean for his Gravity Wave clone, I believe) *does* state 330n instead of 3.3n; lowering the cap was a modification from Tagboard Layouts to keep the oscillation down as it runs away too easily. Increasing the 1k to 10k is just yet another way to reduce feedback further.
I'll make these changes and see if it sounds any different, but for what it's worth, I can't hear anything at all wrong with the way dimension functions currently.
DeleteI'll take my humble pie warm, thanks. CJones is correct. Remove the 33k coming from pin 14, remove cut S16 - move 33k to where 1k is currently connected at T+W 20 - move 1k (10k suggested) to S + W 16. Down to 55 cuts!
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteAwesome! After some coffee and a fresh set of eyes I've noticed an additional error, also pointed out by "Unknown" above. The 10k and 33k on Rows Q and R around Column 11 should be switched with one another. This may affect the response of the Dimension pot, so the 10k sub I suggested above shouldn't be necessary any more.
DeleteSo this didn’t look right to me. That 33k shouldn’t be where the 1k is in the layout. As stated above 1k from s14-w16 and you can just leave that 33k alone. Along with the resistor swap on rows q and r made my dimension pot work. And just barely hit a self oscillation thing. I’ll try the 470n change next before I box this.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteGood catch. Swapped the 33k and 10k - changed resistor back to 1k - perfect. Per a suggestion in the MadBean gravity wave discussion, replaced 470n with 4.7uf to get better range out of the rate. Used a non polarized MLCC, but if you use polarized cap,anode goes to pin 7.Sounded good before - sounds perfect now
ReplyDeleteHmm. Was just getting ready to box this up and came here to check the rate led spot. Now it seems I have things to look at.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteSorry locrian, gotta disagree. That 1 k needs to connect directly to pin 14 - the signal should not pass in series through the 33k. Check the pedslpcb schematic https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/seahorse/
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThat way makes sense. The 33k is running in parallel though to the 470p in the layout with the cut and the link. Moving the 1k to w16 and running it to s14 preserves the 33k in parallel and links pin 14 to the dimension 3 via the 1u and 1k resistor. Unless I’m completely off which is altogether possible but the initial comment of moving the 33k to where the 1k originally was was for sure not right
DeleteMisunderstood you buddy - yes your suggestion absolutely works - I didn't register you were taking about moving it back two rows.
DeleteUgh...final addendum - swap 10k and 33k rows q and r, move 33k on pin 14 to stand parallel to the 470pf cap on pins 13 and 14, then you can remove the link at s and t 21, and couple the 1 k resistor between the positive leg of the 1uf and pin 14.
ReplyDeleteThat would work. If I hadn’t built it yet and already had everything laid out. I would just move the cut at s16 to s18 connect the 1k from s16 to w16. Run the 33k from s17 to s20 and leave the link. Just cause I wouldn’t want a standing resistor.
DeleteWould be awesome if the layout could get updated to reflect the correct way. Super happy you cjoneeplay had this discussion I just fwas going to box mine up with the dimension pot not really doing anything. Seems way better now.
DeleteI tried two versions of this before giving up and getting one from pcbguitarmania. If you need a schematic to look at, check out the one for the "sea device". It works as it should.
ReplyDeleteI’ll mess around with mine some more but i think it sounds right. The only oroblem I had with mine was it didn’t seem like the dimension pot did much of anything. And the changes discussed above have made it so it does. Madbean on diystomp mentioned lowering the value of the 8.2k to increase self oscillation and after making the changes I tried that. Tried a 2.7 for S&g and it self oscillates pretty quick might try a 6.8 or 7.5 there.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteI’ll have to check it out. I’ve got a pcb for a Julia clone coming right now from pedalpcb, mainly just because I can get the pcb in a 125b. This thing is a great little weird box though. All my flip flopping and resoldering I think my rate pot has a bad connection now. Lol. I’ll never get this thing in the box.
DeleteLM1458, I think
ReplyDeleteI was tempted to try this but there's way too much disagreement in the comments about it. 🙈
ReplyDeleteDo it, Ian! It works, I promise ... just gotta make the changes as discussed in the comments
DeleteBuilt this with changes as per previous comments and it works.
ReplyDeleteHi Tony, this was a while ago but can you list the changes you made? I'm having a really hard time following the discussion above!
ReplyDeleteJust finished this one and buy was it a bugger did all the mods in previous posts and the dim pot still did nothing untill i realised i had got dim 1 and dim 2 the wrong way round
ReplyDeletenow to box it up
Just finished, its sounding pretty wild! I think I've got the mods right from here. There's a bit of a whine like a siren in time with the rate and the dimension pot when set to min turns the volume to zero. Does that sound like everyone else or have I missed something?
ReplyDeleteHola gente y bienvenido fuzzhead!!!Este tiene las modificaciones mencionadas incluidas en el diseño aun deben aplicarse al diseño actual?
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteFor anyone looking to build this, I've considered the comments above, checked this layout against the schematic, and then listed some details below that might help. There seems to be some confusion here about the schematic that this layout is taken from (or maybe it's just me). I believe this is based on PedalPCB's "Seahorse" build, so know that the following change documentation is based upon that schematic. After making these changes, I have a build that appears to function like the original.
ReplyDeleteC10: 10nF to 47nF.
Depth 1 and Intensity 1 trade places on the board.
Depth 2 and Intensity 2 trade places on the board.
Depth 3 and Intensity 3 trade places on the board.
R9: move from column 14 to column 16.
Move cut W15 to W13.
R7: move from column 20 to W14/S14.
R4: change from 10k to 33k.
R5: change from 33k to 10k.
C20: no change from 470n, but note that while the build sheet specifies a non-polarized 470n, the schematic shows a 4.7uF.
Although I didn't do it to my build, I think it would be worth it to add an extra column on the left side of the layout to give a little more space for C14 and C18. This would also make room to add R35 back into the build for the on/off LED. Fuzzhead, thanks for this layout, it's brilliant!
Hi Will! Thanks for this. I have a couple of questions if that’s ok?
DeleteCould you tell me how you’re numbering the components? I cannot figure out which resistor is R9 etc.
You mention moving the cut at W15 to W13 but that is where the 100nf is connecting to the board.
Sorry if I’m just being dumb. I just don’t want to start until I know what’s what! Cheers!!
Sure. You'd definitely have some confusion, because I mis-referenced the schematic in my last post! What I should have written is that I believe this build references the Sea-Device schematic found at pcb guitar mania, NOT the seahorse schematic at PedalPCB.
DeleteSee https://pcbguitarmania.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Sea-Device-Building-Docs.pdf. You'll find component labels there that match my build notes.
From this schematic, R9 is the 33k resistor between T and X on column 14. Moving it to column 16 allows room for R7 (the 1k resister between W and T on column 20) to be moved to column 14 (where R9 was). This also requires moving cut W15 to W13, so that R7 can connect on the appropriate rows. That 100nF cap (C5) connects on rows V and X, and you'll be moving the cut underneath it on row W.
Sorry about that bad reference, clearly I'm the dumb one here!