Monday, 19 August 2019

God City Instruments Murdock Eq






17 comments:

  1. has anyone built this yet? the one demo video i saw on youtube was on the chainsaw files channel and the pedal didnt do anything. also, could i substitute the tle2074 with a tl074?

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    1. I don't think anyone built this one yet...
      And yes, I think it is safe to use a TL074.

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    2. thanks. gonna give this a try soon. hope it works

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  2. just finished this and honestly im kind of disappointed. tried distortion, overdrive and fuzz in front of it and it just sounds like a really tame chainsaw. anyone have a different experience with this?

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    1. Bummer. Not sure if it is supoosed to be subtle since I haven't tackled this one....
      Here is another chainsaw eq that is reported to work really good....
      https://dirtboxlayouts.blogspot.com/2019/11/boss-hm-2-eq-swedish-chainsaw-eq.html

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    2. i was totally wrong man. i hadn't boxed it when i tested it and used a almost dead battery. it was reading 4 volts. when i tried it with a new battery it sounded great. still not exactly like a hm2, but i heard in a video that it was supposed to more usable in a mix and i can totally hear that. it still has the balls of the hm2 and wont get drowned out in a whole band settng. boxed it in the same enclosure with a dba fuzz war clone. building more too

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    3. Great! Glad you got it working!

      Wut?1 Fuzz War (V1 or v2?)with HM2 Eq must sound monstrous!

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    4. verson 2. it sounds pretty sick with the murdock. although i feel like my fuzz war clone is lacking in gain a little. any suggestions on how to get more gain?

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    5. Earlier V2's had germanium clippers and a 43k resistor in the feedback loop at Q3 while later and possibly current version has 3,6v zeners and 12k. I find the later version have more crunch, punch and aggression. Which version did you build?

      For more gain you could reduce 390 ohm resistor at the emitter of Q2 or reduce the 8,2k resistors connecting to the bases of Q2 and Q3....
      lol...you can also increase 470k feedback resistors at Q2 and Q3 asa well as increase 15k collector resissors at Q2 and Q3.
      Many ways to fiddle with the gain in a Big Muff.

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    6. i think im just going to buld another one with all these specs and compare the two. cant thank you enough for all the tips man. also, i built version 2 but used germanium diodes.

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  3. isn't missing R9-82k on your layout? same as R14-10k ?.....
    pin 6-7 on TLE2074 connects to Eq pot instead of pins 13-14...... on your Murdock Plus layout seems to follow according to the Shematic.....

    Not that i'm criticizing your work, it just confuses me those steps while im building it...perhaps im wrong, or you did it with a reason.. if yes i would like to know more info... cheers!!

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    1. 100k at top left corner should be 82k.

      This circuit have 6 invidual op amps, four in TLE2074 IC and two in TL072. It dosn't really matter (for this circuit) if it follows the exact pinout for each IC. The important thing is that each invidual op amp has inverting, non inverting and ouput pins wired correctly. You can draw a layout with 6xTL071s with almost the same outcome soundwise but it wouldn't be practical IMHO.

      The main reason for not using the exact pins per schematic is to make the layout neater and as small as possible....

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  4. Built this and it sounds great. Any idea how one would go about removing the blend part of the circuit?

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    1. I guess you want to remove the Eq control and have full on "wet" signal?
      If so, ditch the eq pot and solder a 5,1k resistor between Eq 1 and Eq 2&3 pads on the board.

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  5. I was just about to build this when I noticed two things:
    1. Shouldn't the cut on position C12 be omitted? Otherwise the high band of the eq won't work properly, if I'm correct.
    2. Just a note on a slightly confusing symbol: The cap from M13 to N13 looks like a ceramic one when in fact it is a film cap. The value is correct (100nf) but because of the look I was about to grab for a 100pf cap. Changing the symbol would be nice and help avoiding this possible mistake. Thanks and Cheers!

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    1. Thanks for for spotting the retundant cut.:-)

      For the 100nF cap, it is a power filter cap and ceramics does the job much better than film caps. You can leave it out if you have a decent power supply or run it on battery.

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  6. No problem!

    Concerning the 100nF cap you are absolutely right: In the schematic it clearly states 0.1u MLCC for power filtering. I should've looked twice at that :-)

    Thanks for updating the layout!

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