I'm probably in the minority here but the amount of low end this thing seems to have, from clips, was giving me anxiety. I also hate how harsh most IC Muffs sound. I can already tell that I would want to perhaps change the taper of the Tone control. If somebody builds and modifies it be sure to share your tweakssssss.
@Tom. I can agree with you as far as the bass is pretty heavy. Although I find the 100k pot to give a nice range of tone. But yea, bass heavy for sure. You can verify this as well. Thanks for releasing this so fast!
Just realised the voltage dividers stages are being done on the same opamp (both sides of it) as opposed to the separate opamps. I assume that's going to be ok?
But they're on two different chips. The above strip board has the two dividers both on IC1. I'm guessing it's ok but wasn't 100% sure to be honest, just kind of expecting they would be on IC1a and IC2b.
Built this today and it's really great. I'm a bassist and this has tones of low end! I only had one 4558, so I subbed IC2 with a TL072, and I only had 4 1N4148 diodes, so D1 and D2 on my build are 12v Zeners, but is still sounds amazing!
Sounds up my alley. I had plan on using sockets for the clipping diodes to see what fun combos I can come up with. Might socket a few caps here and there for experiments sake.
I'm really digging this muff and I'm embarrassed to ask as i can usually figure things out on my own. But I'm getting a lot of intermittent background noise. Choppy sounding but doesn't seem to affect the effect when strings are hit. I changed out the 4558s and tried some tl072s and that didn't help. There's no bridges. I cleaned them up nicely. I used all new parts but had to grab some unbranded 100b pots. Could someone give me an idea of anything elss to to look for? I'm stumped. I'm also getting a squeal when the sustain is maxed. Electrolytics? Is it possible to have 2 different sets of ICs that are bad? I'd love to get this going so I can riff my heart out.
i found that when i had it on a breadboard, if i pulled one of the diodes in the 3rd stage it got unstable and started motorboating. as soon as i put a diode back, problem solved. maybe take an extra look in that spot
Cam anyone advise me on how to add a mids knob to this circuit. I have the schematic for the original OPBMP mod but I'm not sure what cap and resistor would be needed to change out on the BM2, the values and if it would take a 1b pot or something larger. I'm having a blast so far with this. I've added a toggle to switch to go between led and germanium clipping. The germanium is nice and compressed and the led is quite doomy. I also added a toggle for the first emmiter cap and it's somewhat nice but I need to play with the values more. At the moment I have a 220p and a 560p. It seems to trim a bit of the bass and gain off. But not exactly what I'm looking for yet.
Eveything seems right for me, except that sustain doesn't change that much for the first 2/3. Also it's just a really little scotchy broken sound. Any ideas to fix that? A resistor value to change is my guess.
All of the values are correct, I opened mine up to verify the schematic, the only real difference is the 10k sustain pot in the manufactured one, a 100 ohm resistor from 9v to power rail, neither of which would make a big difference to the sound.
Here there's the schematic based on the JHS reissue: https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/RedMuffin-PedalPCB.pdf The VR at the non-inverting inputs comes from another op-amp, and each 4558 has a separate power-supply filter In general this could be less noisy.
And it has minor changes that should make it a bit less loud, more than else.
I'm trying to understand the difference to the big muff IC .
ReplyDeleteNoticed ground is not specifically labelled. I suppose volume 1 is!
This one uses 2 4558’s & has four stages, the opamp BMP has a 4558 & a 741 & has 3 stages. It’s also more bass heavy than the original opamp BMP?
ReplyDeleteI noticed the IC difference, so one more stage for this pedal! Thanks for the info.
DeleteAdd ground to row R (under input) and I think it's all good.
ReplyDeleteThat's what I thought, thanks for confirming
DeleteYep, Ground is under Input.
DeleteI'm probably in the minority here but the amount of low end this thing seems to have, from clips, was giving me anxiety. I also hate how harsh most IC Muffs sound. I can already tell that I would want to perhaps change the taper of the Tone control. If somebody builds and modifies it be sure to share your tweakssssss.
ReplyDelete@Tom. I can agree with you as far as the bass is pretty heavy. Although I find the 100k pot to give a nice range of tone. But yea, bass heavy for sure. You can verify this as well. Thanks for releasing this so fast!
ReplyDeleteI look forward to seeing what tampering with the diodes will do. Ge, asymestrical, yadayada.
ReplyDeleteJust realised the voltage dividers stages are being done on the same opamp (both sides of it) as opposed to the separate opamps. I assume that's going to be ok?
ReplyDeleteThe original opamp version has the same voltage dividers on the 1st & last stages?
ReplyDeleteBut they're on two different chips. The above strip board has the two dividers both on IC1. I'm guessing it's ok but wasn't 100% sure to be honest, just kind of expecting they would be on IC1a and IC2b.
DeleteThere’s another Vero layout in the thread linked to the Schematic, try that one.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteVerified! Sounds great for what I play. Different than the original but in a good way. Thanks for the post!!!
ReplyDelete"Same day layout" -- layout in just a few hours after the schematic was published :)
ReplyDeleteCongrats!!
Interesting layout. Some changes to the published schematic. Woulda been cute to get a little shout out for the legwork over at FSB but hey ho.
ReplyDeleteHere's a little shout out to the legwork over at FSB. Let's go.
DeleteThank you for your contribution! I am excited to try out building a new Muff variant!
DeleteCheers, I appreciate it.
DeleteBuilt this today and it's really great. I'm a bassist and this has tones of low end! I only had one 4558, so I subbed IC2 with a TL072, and I only had 4 1N4148 diodes, so D1 and D2 on my build are 12v Zeners, but is still sounds amazing!
ReplyDeleteSounds up my alley. I had plan on using sockets for the clipping diodes to see what fun combos I can come up with. Might socket a few caps here and there for experiments sake.
DeleteJust a reminder. Another IC based Muff that uses two dual opamps from recent years is the JPTR FX Warlow. One of my favorite BMP's period.
ReplyDeleteAs I recall one of the op amps if just part of the power supply. Its not adding to the actual fuzz.
DeleteIt’s pretty different. But excellent.
DeleteYou're right though, design wise, it's not the same.
DeleteThe warlow has been on my board since I made one. Awesome pedal. Most of the stuff they make is pretty cool in a crazy way. Def noisy!
DeleteLove the glitches. Also love the Jive. That’s the boost that stays on my board.
Delete3 days later....How did I miss this?! Many thanks to everybody who put this together. A tip of the hat and next drink is on me.
ReplyDeleteVolume is B10K by the gutshots
ReplyDeletehttps://www.reddit.com/media?url=https%3A%2F%2Fpreview.redd.it%2Fbig-muff-2-v0-440ewcv03o7g1.jpg%3Fwidth%3D1080%26crop%3Dsmart%26auto%3Dwebp%26s%3D8bad71d6cecd15ad5dd73d1053a4e06f2bf13efe
It probably won't make much, if at all difference if it's 10K or 100K as it's only sweeping between the output signal and ground.
Deletean A taper pot is highly recommended. this jawn is LOUD
DeleteI'm really digging this muff and I'm embarrassed to ask as i can usually figure things out on my own. But I'm getting a lot of intermittent background noise. Choppy sounding but doesn't seem to affect the effect when strings are hit. I changed out the 4558s and tried some tl072s and that didn't help. There's no bridges. I cleaned them up nicely. I used all new parts but had to grab some unbranded 100b pots. Could someone give me an idea of anything elss to to look for? I'm stumped. I'm also getting a squeal when the sustain is maxed. Electrolytics? Is it possible to have 2 different sets of ICs that are bad? I'd love to get this going so I can riff my heart out.
ReplyDeletei found that when i had it on a breadboard, if i pulled one of the diodes in the 3rd stage it got unstable and started motorboating. as soon as i put a diode back, problem solved. maybe take an extra look in that spot
DeleteThank you. Now that I think about it. I did grab some diodes off an old muff build that I had socketed. I'm going to check those tonight
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteSounds like power filtering. Try it with a battery or adding a 22r or 100r in series after the 9v in.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteCam anyone advise me on how to add a mids knob to this circuit. I have the schematic for the original OPBMP mod but I'm not sure what cap and resistor would be needed to change out on the BM2, the values and if it would take a 1b pot or something larger. I'm having a blast so far with this. I've added a toggle to switch to go between led and germanium clipping. The germanium is nice and compressed and the led is quite doomy. I also added a toggle for the first emmiter cap and it's somewhat nice but I need to play with the values more. At the moment I have a 220p and a 560p. It seems to trim a bit of the bass and gain off. But not exactly what I'm looking for yet.
ReplyDeleteChange the tone 3 27k to a 2k resistor and add 25k lin knob. Ta daaa! Shift
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteEveything seems right for me, except that sustain doesn't change that much for the first 2/3. Also it's just a really little scotchy broken sound. Any ideas to fix that? A resistor value to change is my guess.
ReplyDeleteAll of the values are correct, I opened mine up to verify the schematic, the only real difference is the 10k sustain pot in the manufactured one, a 100 ohm resistor from 9v to power rail, neither of which would make a big difference to the sound.
DeleteHere there's the schematic based on the JHS reissue:
ReplyDeletehttps://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/RedMuffin-PedalPCB.pdf
The VR at the non-inverting inputs comes from another op-amp, and each 4558 has a separate power-supply filter
In general this could be less noisy.
And it has minor changes that should make it a bit less loud, more than else.