An old german overdrive that has become almost a cult item. It has a very well designed circuit with lots of sensible filtering and a higly tweaked gyrator powered tone control called "Spectrum". Some "bouteek" pedal companies has started making their own variants of this circuit, the most noticable ones are Wampler Belle and Rockett The Dude.
I've included the Bass control found in the Aion Fx Andromeda project.
Factory schematic is avaiable HERE and Aion Andromeda project files is avaiable HERE.
Man, I've been thinking about this one for a while. So glad you posted this. Thanks a Mil!!
ReplyDeleteIt works...that is, once you put D3 and D4 on a more suitable place. :O) (One row above, from ground to Vb?...) Anyway, I build it that way an it sounds great.
ReplyDeleteThanks, and keep your awesome work here!....
Dragão
dragào could you please tell me which rows you place your diodes?
DeleteThank you
As it is now on the layout. Fuzzhead corrected it after my warning, so is good to go now.
DeleteThanks buddy
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ReplyDeleteI mean, let´s be clear, on Vb instead of Ground, of course. That is, between rows I and G, and not as it is, between H and J...
ReplyDeleteDragão
Thank you Dragao!
DeleteI'll tag it and correct the diode placement this evening.
Do you find the added Bass control useful?
I found the bass control a very useful add. Makes a big diference. You loose some volume/gain from wide open (equal to rhe standard ODR), but you win clarity and definition. I think it gets better this way. Cheers!
ReplyDeleteHello,
ReplyDeleteI want to build this pedal but it would be my first one. I'm not quite sure about how to go about this completely. Such as component selection (the different variations of certain items, one type over another), completion wiring such as to the pots and foot switch. ANY help would be greatly appreciated. I under basic concepts to a point.
Nice pedal, I like it best with the j201. Managed to cram it into a 1590b enclosure, tight fit though but doable.
ReplyDeleteOne of my favourites this. It would be great if we could have a layout for the original 3 knob version too, more like the one on Tagboard Effects, but in the narrower, taller format. That's my not so subtle hint for the day :-))).
ReplyDeleteFinally finished this board I had half built out for ages and meant to come back to. Superb overdrive with a surprising amount of gain. Definitely getting boxed.
ReplyDeleteWith the release of the green side of the Browne Protein coming up it would be cool to have a layout for that one. It’s an ODR-1 style circuit, but with a slightly different eq curve (more mids).
ReplyDeleteI built this boy yesterday and the more than I play it the more I wanna play...best TS-ish out there....and i don't like TSs
ReplyDeleteHej Anders, could you post this layout with links and holes only? I happen to own the Andromeda with the bass-cut -and this really makes all the difference to me. The original is too bassy and undefined with Humbuckers and this pot helps a lot in definition and clarity. Thanks for the layout!
ReplyDeleteJust uploaded the board with cuts and links only.
DeleteThanks a lot, Anders!
DeleteHi all, new here so please forgive a potentially stupid question... What are the 3 black circles on the longest link wire? I'm only 4 builds in to my veroboard adventure and haven't come across this before.
ReplyDeleteThat means it's a shared hole, thus it's 3 connected links, not one. Hopefully that makes good sense.
DeleteSorry - 4 links, not 3.
DeleteAha! That makes sense. Many thanks for the swift reply 🙏
ReplyDeleteIf I wanted to make this without the bass mod would I just put a jumper between S1 and U1?
ReplyDeleteYes, just add a link. It'll be super bassy, but the stock circuit is known for that.
DeleteCool, thanks 👍.
DeleteI actually like the stock circuit and don’t find it too bassy. It always puzzled me, but it’s amp and guitar dependant. This one even without the bass pot is less bassy than the original on account of the cap in C1 position. The original was 220nf. I do think in some cases the modern versions ‘fix’ too much and things end up sounding too tight.
DeleteHi I am newbie here and trying to build this project as my 4th vero!
ReplyDeleteI am just wondering what is the black circle thing in the middle of jumpers and what shall I do with that?
Always appreciate your works cheers!
The black circle marks a solder joint between two jumpers that terminate in the same vero hole. For example, the black circle at J9 marks the hole where two jumpers, F9-J9 and J9-M9, meet at the same solder joint. So it looks like there is one very long jumper from F9-V9, it's actually four separate jumpers in a row that connect at three points (J9, M9, and Q9).
ReplyDeleteHope that helps!
Thank you for your detailed explanation! I got it perfectly and ery helped
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