Yeah I've been waiting to see this one ever since I came across the PedalPCB version with all the SMD chips - Gonna order the parts now! Reckon it will be comfy in a 1590XX ??
Fair enough! i've managed to fit a Grand Orbiter and Sea Machine without issue, but seeing this one has a side >30 makes me think this one isn't worth the trouble.
Hi there, sorry for being OT so feel free to delete my post... I'd like to submit a request as you're good al layouts. I'd like to see a byoc black face (or harmonic) tremolo. not necessarily with flat resistors, standing resistors are ok as long as the layout is as small as possible. Do you think you can do it!? thanks
Hi there. Could not find anything named BYOC Black Face...but I have a layout called BYOC Black Key.... https://dirtboxlayouts.blogspot.com/2019/07/byoc-lil-black-key-fuzz.html
That tremolo looks really interesting, I'll add it to the list.
One reistor is current limiting resistor, I usually leave off board when there is no room for on the board. The second resistor is a 10ohm resistor from power rail to pin 16 of CD4046. I'll try to squeeze it in but I doubt it will make a big difference. Most of the missing cap is 100nF ceramic powe filter caps. Usually, these is retundant and take up unecessary space and the would be much bigger without it. Still I managed to squeeze in two of them at the op amp and parallel with the 100uF cap.
Thanks for clarifying! Do you know why the 2 10ohm are listed at 1/2 watt instead of 1/4 was on the guild guide? Would it make a difference if I just used 1/4 watt?
Not sure but since both these resistors is inline with the power supply you might want to have a bit more robust components. I've experienced burnt power resistors several times and these were 1/4 watt... But again, I'm just speculating...
So just to clarify, I have completed the circuit and am planning on wiring up the switches and pots tonight. What are the chances that the 1/4w 10r resistors I’m using burn and destroys the whole thing as soon as I connect it to power for testing?
You have what? :-D. You are brave! Changes is very, very slim that you'll destroy the whole thing. Worst case is that the 10 ohm resistor gets hot and will eventually smoke. But that scenario is also very slim....
Fair enough!! And yeah I’ve been in a rut recently and haven’t made anything too exciting in a while so when I saw this, I though I might as well give it it try! Also I order double the parts and bought the pcb version as well after you posted this - so regardless of whether this build works out, I’ll have a PCB to work with in about a week or two -
I made it but i cannot confidently verify it. I am definitley getting some data corruptor-like sounds, however some of the switches dont seem to be working properly. All the pots work fine and the switches on the left side of the board seem to been fine as well, the main isssue here is the Osc Int Switch and the oscillation root switch most of the setts just give crazy feedback and i'm not sure what is causing it. however, the biggest issue it thee overall lack of sustain - the notes seem to cut off right away - any ideas?
So I spent a bit more time with the circuit - The main issues I’m seeming to have is the gating, as mentioned, and the oscillator Root switch. There is no difference in sound when it is set between positions 1-4 and 2-5, while position 3-6 will instantly oscillate uncontrollably - like a high pitched whine sort of oscillation. The sub interval switch changes the pitch of the whine so I assume that the control works but something is still causing that oscillation. Also, something is up with the square control it just seems to blend in a fuzzy signal rather than change the shape of the oscillator signal or subharmonic signal. Although maybe thats just how it works ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Still haven't been able to figure out what the issue is here. I think sub root switch 3 goes to Osc root 2 rather that 6. still having issues with the OSC root switch and sustain
Damn, forgot a bout this, too many things in the air... I'm not at home at my computer at the moment but will take a look tomorrow. For the Square control, I don't think it should change the texture or the shape of the fuzz signal since it is a simple volume control for the fuzz signal as is Sub control for octave down and Oscillator for the ....noise signal. Just to clarify things regarding the DPDT switch, it is a type 2 switch you have?
I built this one and at the moment it does not work! I think we're not far but I'm struggling with the dpdt on/on/on is this ok? https://www.uk-electronic.de/onlineshop/product_info.php?products_id=1243&osCsid=45e7b3c340193eed74548f0cd647d6b9 thx
Works. Great effect. Reminds me of the pll, but this has more whistles to it. Some corrections though as per the schamatics: 1. move 100n pin from 12v to 12w. 2. link or3 to or5. 3. (not important but to conform to specs) reverse all 3 1u caps in the bottom lower corner. Note: omitted (probably intentionally) Vd as per schematics at power supply ic7, but it works nonetheless. Cool pedal, a must have for outofspace blasting guitar enthusiasts. cheers.
I made one and I think it's verified (following crissip's changes). Everything seems to be working right, but I'm unsure about glide mode. It's really hard to tell with pedals like this. I'm gonna play around to be sure everything is right.
Nice. Big thank you to all of you! I'll sit down with the layout in a couple of days and go through the corrections made by crissip and Craterian_Goat. and upload an updated layout.
Hmm, sorry I can't help you out. This is a monster of a circuit with tons of links and solder connections. It could be anything based on your information...:-/
Along with Marcello's update from 11/23, there's an issue with the vibe rate and switch. the 47k resistor in the second row should connect with rate 3 and vibe/glide 2.
I’ve been tempted too. Pretty unique. Might be a bit much for strip board. Someone probably does a fabricated board. Or just say f it and give it a shot.
Verified to the best of my ability against knobs demo. Once you get past a hundred some cuts and testing them all, this build goes pretty fast. Will fit in a 1590bb if you like torturing yourself :)
Firstly, thank you so much for this layout, what a challenge, and thanks to the commenters above for the fixes that changed this pedal from a screeching feedback monster to what is a really good interpretation of the data corruptor. Can't believe it worked, so many wires, so many squeally noises to enjoy. I feel as if everything is working as it should, thanks again!
Sorry for the delay, I'm not sure I even linked the 47k to rate 3, I might see what that does. I did the changes marchello suggests above, osc root 3 to osc root 5 and osc root 6 linked to sub root 3. Good luck with it
"Think this going to stay unverified for a while..." Agree, this is a big stripboard's project. I pay a beer to the first one who makes this one
ReplyDeleteYeah I've been waiting to see this one ever since I came across the PedalPCB version with all the SMD chips - Gonna order the parts now! Reckon it will be comfy in a 1590XX ??
ReplyDeleteYeah, 1590XX is the way to go me thinks, smaller than that would be madness...
DeleteFair enough! i've managed to fit a Grand Orbiter and Sea Machine without issue, but seeing this one has a side >30 makes me think this one isn't worth the trouble.
DeleteWould it be possible to separate the Sub section from the Osc section?
ReplyDeleteHi there, sorry for being OT so feel free to delete my post...
ReplyDeleteI'd like to submit a request as you're good al layouts. I'd like to see a byoc black face (or harmonic) tremolo. not necessarily with flat resistors, standing resistors are ok as long as the layout is as small as possible. Do you think you can do it!? thanks
Hi there. Could not find anything named BYOC Black Face...but I have a layout called BYOC Black Key....
Deletehttps://dirtboxlayouts.blogspot.com/2019/07/byoc-lil-black-key-fuzz.html
That tremolo looks really interesting, I'll add it to the list.
My bad, it's BROWN FACE. http://byocelectronics.com/brownfacetremoloinstructions.pdf
DeleteHoly hell man. Intense.
ReplyDeleteThe Tone virus guide on madbean has 24 resistors and 24 caps. This layout has 22 resistors and 18 caps - why the discrepancy?
ReplyDeleteOne reistor is current limiting resistor, I usually leave off board when there is no room for on the board. The second resistor is a 10ohm resistor from power rail to pin 16 of CD4046. I'll try to squeeze it in but I doubt it will make a big difference.
ReplyDeleteMost of the missing cap is 100nF ceramic powe filter caps. Usually, these is retundant and take up unecessary space and the would be much bigger without it. Still I managed to squeeze in two of them at the op amp and parallel with the 100uF cap.
Thanks for clarifying! Do you know why the 2 10ohm are listed at 1/2 watt instead of
Delete1/4 was on the guild guide? Would it make a difference if I just used 1/4 watt?
Not sure but since both these resistors is inline with the power supply you might want to have a bit more robust components. I've experienced burnt power resistors several times and these were 1/4 watt...
DeleteBut again, I'm just speculating...
So just to clarify, I have completed the circuit and am planning on wiring up the switches and pots tonight. What are the chances that the 1/4w 10r resistors I’m using burn and destroys the whole thing as soon as I connect it to power for testing?
ReplyDeleteYou have what? :-D. You are brave!
DeleteChanges is very, very slim that you'll destroy the whole thing. Worst case is that the 10 ohm resistor gets hot and will eventually smoke. But that scenario is also very slim....
Fair enough!! And yeah I’ve been in a rut recently and haven’t made anything too exciting in a while so when I saw this, I though I might as well give it it try! Also I order double the parts and bought the pcb version as well after you posted this - so regardless of whether this build works out, I’ll have a PCB to work with in about a week or two -
DeleteCool, let us know how it goes. I'm gonna make one too, I just gotta double check my stash first and make sure I have all of the ic's.
DeleteI made it but i cannot confidently verify it. I am definitley getting some data corruptor-like sounds, however some of the switches dont seem to be working properly. All the pots work fine and the switches on the left side of the board seem to been fine as well, the main isssue here is the Osc Int Switch and the oscillation root switch most of the setts just give crazy feedback and i'm not sure what is causing it. however, the biggest issue it thee overall lack of sustain - the notes seem to cut off right away - any ideas?
ReplyDeleteAlmost there!
DeleteWill take a look at the CD4069 and CD4093 section for the gating issue and the oscillator switches when I get home tomorrow.
So I spent a bit more time with the circuit - The main issues I’m seeming to have is the gating, as mentioned, and the oscillator Root switch. There is no difference in sound when it is set between positions 1-4 and 2-5, while position 3-6 will instantly oscillate uncontrollably - like a high pitched whine sort of oscillation. The sub interval switch changes the pitch of the whine so I assume that the control works but something is still causing that oscillation. Also, something is up with the square control it just seems to blend in a fuzzy signal rather than change the shape of the oscillator signal or subharmonic signal. Although maybe thats just how it works ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
ReplyDeleteOtherwise it sounds great!
Still haven't been able to figure out what the issue is here. I think sub root switch 3 goes to Osc root 2 rather that 6. still having issues with the OSC root switch and sustain
DeleteDamn, forgot a bout this, too many things in the air...
DeleteI'm not at home at my computer at the moment but will take a look tomorrow.
For the Square control, I don't think it should change the texture or the shape of the fuzz signal since it is a simple volume control for the fuzz signal as is Sub control for octave down and Oscillator for the ....noise signal.
Just to clarify things regarding the DPDT switch, it is a type 2 switch you have?
I've taken a look, no mistakes so far but I'll keep looking...
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteI built this one and at the moment it does not work!
ReplyDeleteI think we're not far but I'm struggling with the dpdt on/on/on
is this ok?
https://www.uk-electronic.de/onlineshop/product_info.php?products_id=1243&osCsid=45e7b3c340193eed74548f0cd647d6b9
thx
Pins 3 and 5 should be connected on the Osc Root Sw.
ReplyDeleteWorks. Great effect. Reminds me of the pll, but this has more whistles to it. Some corrections though as per the schamatics: 1. move 100n pin from 12v to 12w. 2. link or3 to or5. 3. (not important but to conform to specs) reverse all 3 1u caps in the bottom lower corner. Note: omitted (probably intentionally) Vd as per schematics at power supply ic7, but it works nonetheless. Cool pedal, a must have for outofspace blasting guitar enthusiasts. cheers.
ReplyDeleteNice. My next personal build for sure.
DeleteI made one and I think it's verified (following crissip's changes). Everything seems to be working right, but I'm unsure about glide mode. It's really hard to tell with pedals like this. I'm gonna play around to be sure everything is right.
DeleteNice. Big thank you to all of you!
DeleteI'll sit down with the layout in a couple of days and go through the corrections made by crissip and Craterian_Goat. and upload an updated layout.
Cheers!
Nevermind, all is well. Funky switch. Verified with those changes.
DeleteUpdated the layout. All changes has been made except for the link. I I might be blind but I can't find a link at or3?
DeleteUgh, I guess you meant the Osc Root Sw 3 to 5?
DeleteSo...it is verified I guess.
hi, sorry I missed your post. Yes I meant osc root sw 3 to 5.
ReplyDeleteHello, I have done this design 2 times and it sounds, but it does not do what it should do, sorry but I cannot find the error
ReplyDeleteHmm, sorry I can't help you out. This is a monster of a circuit with tons of links and solder connections. It could be anything based on your information...:-/
DeleteYes, it is one of the most difficult, do not worry, I will go looking to see. thanks a lot
ReplyDeleteAccording to the schematic, pin 3 and 5 are linked on osc root, and osc root 6 is linked to sub root 3.
ReplyDeleteAlong with Marcello's update from 11/23, there's an issue with the vibe rate and switch. the 47k resistor in the second row should connect with rate 3 and vibe/glide 2.
ReplyDeleteI made both Marcello M and this correction on my board and it is much more functional, although the oscillator portion is still buggy.
Deletehalf of me says no big deal.. not many parts.. but 109 cuts and 49 links..
ReplyDeleteI've verified a few here..I'm not gonna even try this one
I’ve been tempted too. Pretty unique. Might be a bit much for strip board. Someone probably does a fabricated board. Or just say f it and give it a shot.
ReplyDeleteVerified to the best of my ability against knobs demo. Once you get past a hundred some cuts and testing them all, this build goes pretty fast. Will fit in a 1590bb if you like torturing yourself :)
ReplyDeleteFirstly, thank you so much for this layout, what a challenge, and thanks to the commenters above for the fixes that changed this pedal from a screeching feedback monster to what is a really good interpretation of the data corruptor. Can't believe it worked, so many wires, so many squeally noises to enjoy. I feel as if everything is working as it should, thanks again!
ReplyDeleteWhat's the list of changes you've made?
Delete- OSC ROOT 3 to to OSC ROOT 5
- LINK the 47K resistor from row 2 to RATE 3
?
Sorry for the delay, I'm not sure I even linked the 47k to rate 3, I might see what that does. I did the changes marchello suggests above, osc root 3 to osc root 5 and osc root 6 linked to sub root 3. Good luck with it
DeleteI swapped the 2.2uf electrolytics for 3.3uf I had on hand...any reason I shouldn't have done this?
ReplyDelete