amazing sounding vibe! I made of using a different layout (with LED/LDR section offboard) and also did the PedalPCB Version.
If anyone runs into problems with LFO tick, try putting a buffer between the footswitch and input jack - will no longer be true bypass but works well with the noise.
hey guys, you are doing *really* great job on EaqrthQuaker pedals. i just didn't find any appropriate place to ask a question, so let it be here: do you have any plans for EarthQuaker Aqueduct pedal?
i'm looking for a pedal which is strictly vibrato, without any phaser, rotator, flanger stuff etc, just straight pitch vibrato. Aqueduct is an ideal example of this for me.
anyway thanks for your work, it's just really helpful for diy pedal makers.
Hey Ian - old comment of yours here, but I'm wondering if you ever built this up successfully? Reason I ask is that I was comparing this one to the tagboard layout of the same circuit and I noticed that, on this layout, that "Voice 3" is not connected to anything. It seems like it should be moved down one row so that it connects to the anode of the LED.
Still have the board cut somewhere but i never plucked up the courage to finish it! It also occurred to me that I would struggle to fit in a box with all the knobs 🤦🏼
Okay it works! The LED stayed solid on the first time I wired it up, voice and volume worked but nothing else. Holding a flashing light over it got the effect to work but I couldn't figure out why the LED wouldn't blink. The next time I wired it up to troubleshoot it worked right away, and I found you can freeze up the LED with certain positions on the pots and have to fuss with it to unfreeze again. Here is my board: https://saintlyleftovers.blogspot.com/2023/02/earthquaker-devices-depths.html
I build the PCB from pedalpcb with this circuit and the same happened as you described. Never find a solution for these. I even create a post on their forum but after changing so many things on the pedal never worked well. When I connect for the first time works great amazing sound but if I touch the pots the vibe vanish.
yup, Same with the one i built from Tagboard effects site a couple years ago. funny this conversation just got going again as I pulled out the pedal from the back of the stack. I figured after two years and a hundred and thirty five pedals built, I'm sure I can figure it out. I was hoping it was something as simple as the bypass led interfering with the LDR's by bleeding light through the inside of the enclosure, or that the LDR's may be to close to the LED, but no dice. and also tried other photresistors to. but yeah, some settings between the "Throb, Intensity and Rate" seem to stop it in its tracks. as well it always freezes up just by dialing the rate below 50% on mine, no matter where the other knobs are set. I think what's happening is the same thing as when I was playing with the Bearfoot Magnavibe layout and trying to increase the usable range of the rate and depth. it seems as there's a fine line where both pots are in agreement, but go too far with a value in either direction, with one pot or the other , and its back to the drawing board. It could also very well just be the Amazon LDR's I have are crap I'll and their response times aren't aligned with the supposed specs. anyway if I figure something out I'll come back and post it.
Thank you... I have also tried adding a input buffer, changing the pots, changing the IC and nothing makes the led blinking as supposed to be, the led always stay on without blinking when touch the rate knob or intensity like you said. Already posted a video on PedalPCB forum but the thing that they told me to do already did and nothing works. I have now the pedal in a bag to see if there is any solution for this problem and make it work.
Tag it for sure - built one using specified LED and LDR combo and it's luscious, swirly univibe. All controls work as expected. Super versatile. I've now done the Sea machine, space spiral, and this. I guess next stop Grand Orbiter.
This does sound very nice. I must admit that I've never been a vibe enthusiast but I am always looking for an approximate Leslie sound. This goes beyond a stock uni vibe.
I mixed up where the LED is placed. Cathode is in row H and the anode is in row I. For future query. Thanks for the layout.
Finally getting around to boxing this. I found that a clear 5mm LED sounds much more articulate in this circuit. I used pink. (Make sure the LDR's aren't right up against the bulb). And if you look up a gut shot it shows a clear LED actually. I also eliminated the far right column along with the CLR and LED connection. I placed the lower right link beneath the board to fit it in a 125b box. Sounds very nice, especially on faster settings. Thanks again.
amazing sounding vibe! I made of using a different layout (with LED/LDR section offboard) and also did the PedalPCB Version.
ReplyDeleteIf anyone runs into problems with LFO tick, try putting a buffer between the footswitch and input jack - will no longer be true bypass but works well with the noise.
Put the buffer between the switch and the board input and it will be true bypass
ReplyDeletehey guys, you are doing *really* great job on EaqrthQuaker pedals. i just didn't find any appropriate place to ask a question, so let it be here: do you have any plans for EarthQuaker Aqueduct pedal?
ReplyDeletei'm looking for a pedal which is strictly vibrato, without any phaser, rotator, flanger stuff etc, just straight pitch vibrato. Aqueduct is an ideal example of this for me.
anyway thanks for your work, it's just really helpful for diy pedal makers.
I want to build this so much...can someone with big shoes verify it?!😂
ReplyDeleteTry it Ian. I have read that the correct LDR is important in this one.
ReplyDeleteTry this one, its pretty special. Parasit Studios do some amazing stuff
ReplyDeletehttps://www.parasitstudio.se/building-blog/black-current-vibrato-stutter
This looks great but without a Vero layout I won't be able to do it,😬
Deletehttps://www.parasitstudio.se/uploads/2/4/4/9/2449159/black_current.gif
DeleteI was lusting after this circuit just last night. Good lookin' out compadre. Love the art on this one too.
ReplyDeleteI've cut the board...it's huge....I'm wondering if I can fit it between 5 knobs and the stomp switch 😬
ReplyDeleteHey Ian - old comment of yours here, but I'm wondering if you ever built this up successfully? Reason I ask is that I was comparing this one to the tagboard layout of the same circuit and I noticed that, on this layout, that "Voice 3" is not connected to anything. It seems like it should be moved down one row so that it connects to the anode of the LED.
DeleteStill have the board cut somewhere but i never plucked up the courage to finish it! It also occurred to me that I would struggle to fit in a box with all the knobs 🤦🏼
DeleteI was wondering that too, looking under the LED it looks like both legs are connected to two rails
DeleteOkay it works! The LED stayed solid on the first time I wired it up, voice and volume worked but nothing else. Holding a flashing light over it got the effect to work but I couldn't figure out why the LED wouldn't blink. The next time I wired it up to troubleshoot it worked right away, and I found you can freeze up the LED with certain positions on the pots and have to fuss with it to unfreeze again. Here is my board: https://saintlyleftovers.blogspot.com/2023/02/earthquaker-devices-depths.html
ReplyDeleteI build the PCB from pedalpcb with this circuit and the same happened as you described. Never find a solution for these. I even create a post on their forum but after changing so many things on the pedal never worked well. When I connect for the first time works great amazing sound but if I touch the pots the vibe vanish.
Deleteyup, Same with the one i built from Tagboard effects site a couple years ago. funny this conversation just got going again as I pulled out the pedal from the back of the stack. I figured after two years and a hundred and thirty five pedals built, I'm sure I can figure it out. I was hoping it was something as simple as the bypass led interfering with the LDR's by bleeding light through the inside of the enclosure, or that the LDR's may be to close to the LED, but no dice. and also tried other photresistors to. but yeah, some settings between the "Throb, Intensity and Rate" seem to stop it in its tracks. as well it always freezes up just by dialing the rate below 50% on mine, no matter where the other knobs are set. I think what's happening is the same thing as when I was playing with the Bearfoot Magnavibe layout and trying to increase the usable range of the rate and depth. it seems as there's a fine line where both pots are in agreement, but go too far with a value in either direction, with one pot or the other , and its back to the drawing board. It could also very well just be the Amazon LDR's I have are crap I'll and their response times aren't aligned with the supposed specs. anyway if I figure something out I'll come back and post it.
DeleteThank you... I have also tried adding a input buffer, changing the pots, changing the IC and nothing makes the led blinking as supposed to be, the led always stay on without blinking when touch the rate knob or intensity like you said. Already posted a video on PedalPCB forum but the thing that they told me to do already did and nothing works. I have now the pedal in a bag to see if there is any solution for this problem and make it work.
DeleteTag it for sure - built one using specified LED and LDR combo and it's luscious, swirly univibe. All controls work as expected. Super versatile. I've now done the Sea machine, space spiral, and this. I guess next stop Grand Orbiter.
ReplyDeleteGreat!
ReplyDeleteTagged.
Man, this thing is amazing - one of the best modulation pedals I have heard
ReplyDeleteThis does sound very nice. I must admit that I've never been a vibe enthusiast but I am always looking for an approximate Leslie sound. This goes beyond a stock uni vibe.
ReplyDeleteI mixed up where the LED is placed. Cathode is in row H and the anode is in row I. For future query. Thanks for the layout.
Rotating speaker settings from the Earthquaker manual.
Deletehttps://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/57cebe2c03596e075fca5f24/1548790681369-8U8O82AK88NR2EPMX7GZ/The-Depths-Settings-Rotating-Speakers.jpg?format=2500w
Finally getting around to boxing this. I found that a clear 5mm LED sounds much more articulate in this circuit. I used pink. (Make sure the LDR's aren't right up against the bulb). And if you look up a gut shot it shows a clear LED actually. I also eliminated the far right column along with the CLR and LED connection. I placed the lower right link beneath the board to fit it in a 125b box. Sounds very nice, especially on faster settings. Thanks again.
ReplyDelete