Schematic, trace and info avaiable at FSB. Note that there is a cap value missing across pin 11 and 12 at the PT2399. There is a 10nF cap across pin 9 and 10 so a close value to that should work. Also, lug pot numberings isn't marked on iether of the schematics so lug numbering in the layout is just a best guess. Both red and green diffused LEDs has been used in the original circuit so a socket for would be a good idea as well as for the LDR.
*Edit 200809*
Dragao verified it using 820/8 LDR and green diffused LED. He also verified the Warp pot lug connections.
Been hoping for this one for a long time. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteBuild it and it works. Warp on F row to lug 3, and Warp on L row to Lug 1 (that's the way I found to get results). It can get very weird, and it can get wonderfully psicadelic - specialy before a univibe kind of thing (a EQD Dephts in my case). The only litle problem I noticed is a audible ticking in the LFO, when not playing. Used a 10 nF on C8, green 3mm led, and 8/20 LDR.
ReplyDeleteCheers, mate! And keep the great work!
Cheers! I'll tag it. Just wondering about Warp pot lug 2, is it bridged to 1 or 3?
DeleteBridged to 3.
ReplyDeleteI made this pedal but have no output and the LED doesnt seem to be flashing at all. Any ideas?
ReplyDeleteFor the LFO, check connections, cuts and solder bridges at the areas sorrounding the TL072.
DeleteIf you manage the get the LFO and the LED working and still don't have any output.... then I think you need to triple check the rest of the Circuit.:-/
I found 2 points that weren't soldered properly and fixed those. Couldn't find any bridges and all the cuts and links looked ok to me, and the LED was still solid. I checked everything else and it looked fine to me so i guess i have a lot more checking to do. thanks
DeleteHad a few more looks and short of checking Resistor values are in the right place everything looks ok but still no sound. there are no bridges visible. I don't have new ICs or Transistors to see if they may be the issue but have some on order. I notice my warp control changed the brightness of the LED going to the LDR. the LFO speed and Depth seem to have no effect.
ReplyDeleteBuilt this the other day and it works great... Is there a schematic diagram for this?
ReplyDeleteSure! There is a quite messy schematic at FSB.
Deletehttps://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=26810&p=281563&hilit=mind+warp#p281563
Just built this one today. Fired straight up with some pretty great tones, goes from a mellow vibe to a trippy warped vibe.
ReplyDeleteThis one is being boxed
I was fiddling with today and was wondering if there was any way of putting a tap tempo on it?
ReplyDeleteI just finish this today.. And works really great! THANKS!
ReplyDeleteHello! I am not familiarized with LDR resistors, what is 8/20 value?
ReplyDeleteThanks
The 8/20 has to do with the resistance it provides depending on the amount of Light it collects.
ReplyDeleteyes but, the value is OHMs, from 8ohms to 20ohms, is that correct?
DeleteNO,man. KOhms...
DeleteSomething like this:
https://mauser.pt/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=324_1127&products_id=005-0045
So my miss understanding. I think that will work but i used something bigger like a few kOhms to Mohms
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteThank you very much Dragäo...
DeleteThe last question... Is the green led who control the different value of the resistance of the LDR?
Yes.
DeleteAnd, as you might guess, they should be close one with the other, the led and the Ldr. In order that, in a dark enviroment (like the closed pedal box) the bigest amount of ligh (of the led) focus on the LDR top. Most guys use to wrap both in a black plastic sleeve...
IMHO the best way is to socket this things. Then try diferent ones till you find the one at your taste.
ReplyDelete3mm diffused led, Tayda generic ldr, and 10nf for C8 works just as it should. Thanks guys. Been hunting for a good vibrato. More of a chorus but it’s nice. I REALLY want a leslie type sound. I’ve never quite gotten there. Vibe doesn’t do it for me. Smirk. Anyway thanks again guys. (Ran outta board so I sowed two smaller pieces together). Haha it’s alive!
ReplyDeleteBuilt this and have yet to box it up, but I like it. Seems to be based on the little angel chorus and I think I'm going to build that soon because I like this mainly when it's turned down, as a chorus with just a bit of warble. I also found a noticeable tick when you're not playing. Would love a fix for that if anyone has found one.
ReplyDeleteI would try another op amp for IC2 since TL072s are noticable to cause ticking in LFO circuits. 1458, LM358, 4558 or TL062 usually has less ticking.
DeleteHey guys!
ReplyDeleteJust finished to build that one.
I have one (major) issue. The pedal kind of work but when I slightly turn on the depth pots, i get a harsch sound above the normal sound (where i can hear the effect is working) and when the pot is at its maximum I get literally no sound.
Could it come from the PT2399 or the 78L05? Or anywhere else?
Thanks :)
Just finished this build successfully but I'm surprised nobody else mentioned the speed control is backwards. Instead of the top left wire going to speed 2 & 3 I wired it to speed 1 & 2 so it gets faster as you turn the speed control clockwise. It also got a bit too fast at the fully clockwise position so I put a 2K resistor in line with speed 3 to make it usable at the highest speed settings. I used a 10nF for C8 and 3mm green LED. Thanks for the layouts.
ReplyDeleteHey all! I finished this build up recently and am unfortunately having some issues getting it to work. I've put it through all its paces as far as troubleshooting goes: Checked for any bridges, double checked my cuts, replaced the pt2399 and tl072, checked for continuity/signal running to ground, and measured voltage at the diode, tl072 and regulator (roughly 9.4v at all of them).
ReplyDeleteHere are some pictures of the board: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1C6MTaWmcQdECTm_QtVohno9lzaGem9Qr?usp=sharing
Is there something else that I'm missing here? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Are those multi layer 3.3nf caps? Or are they tantalums? I just looked it over quickly and didn't see anything else personally. I can confirm that it does work though. I noticed that you roughed up the bottom a lot of the bottom before building. Probably a fair idea but that stuff is pretty delicate. I usually just wipe it with rubbing alcohol before a build. Also, take a flashlight and shine it under the board looking for bad joints from the top side.
DeleteThey're MLCCs, I had a few that were 3.3nf and used those since they fit more easily. Are you referring to that bottom row that's partially there? Or the solder work on the bottom row itself?
DeleteNeither, your work looks fine. I was just noting that the actual tracks on the underside of the PCB looked scored and rough. And sometimes even when you don't see a bridge somewhere, there still is a partial one. Check for bad joints and then knife between your tracks. Then take a toothbrush with some near 100% alcohol and carefully scrub the underside. Don't get any on the top side. It may help.
DeleteOh gotcha. Yea I'll give that a shot! Hopefully it works a bit after that. It's weird, I'm not getting any signal when I engage the pedal but I can heard the LFO...LFO-ing (?) through the signal when I turn the rate and depth knobs up or down.
DeleteYou'll probably get it going. Sounds like it wants to wake up. Make sure your grounds are secure too.
Delete