Thursday 4 July 2019

Revv G4 Pedal


60 comments:

  1. I got this layout built yesterday and it's killer. Thanks for all your work, man. I had to sub some orange LEDs because I'm out of red ATM, but it still jams.

    https://imgur.com/a/W4meFrh

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUwi18s0iEQ

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    1. Heeyyy, thats awesome! Love the pictures, nice and tidy!

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    2. Thanks! I got it boxed up and recorded a better demo. The other video was just my phone and a little practice amp.

      https://i.imgur.com/JFz1lzW.jpg

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4apJcNmz4Gw

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    3. Hello, AND greetings For you pedal, i want to do the same but i have a doubt, i Made pedals with the board like the page effectsandlayouts but i never do one like this schematic, the red dots in the board are cuts? Cuts to that líne?
      Thanks and greetings from chile
      Ps: sorry for my bad english jajsjs

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  2. No problems here, all good cheers.

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  3. Simple but interesting modification :omit clipping leds or select with switch.

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  4. So mine:a single 5m/m blue led for clipping on diffused light on/on switch,oriented with+ upwards. Ic1-TL062 ic2-MC1458 ic3-TL072.

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  5. Built and working 100%. I removed the leds because it was causing the sound to fail sometimes, on ic 1 I used tl062, with the change of ic1 the sustain is much higher and defined. Thank you, greetings from Brazil.

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  6. Hello ,, I built this yesterday very very cerfully and it”s not work , I can’t find the fault , everything is correctly . But the strange is - when I touch my finger in TUVW-1234 In board for 1 sec . After 2 sec come and out my signal but with little overdrive for 3-4 secs and after quite . But the leds in board doesn’t light up with this signal .. someone help me !!

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    1. I use 6mm leds instead of 3mm . That make problem ? I don’t think.
      I wasn’t connect switch . The 5 wires of switch are not plug in switch . Is just like in off position . Correct ??

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    2. 6mm LEDs doesn't matter and it should work. And if you omitted the switch it should work but you have the middle off position.

      My guess is that you have a problem at the first op amp. Knife the gaps, reflow solder joints, tripple check placement of connections left to and under IC1.

      Do you have an audio probe? It is very handy to have, you can identify the spots where the signal stops flowing.

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    3. Tell me something , what it use the 100nf cap? Thank you

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    4. Not sure I understand....? Are you talking about the two 100nF caps in the layout or do you want to add a 100nF cap?

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    5. Oh I”m talking for audio probe , but I search for that and it’s ok ..I search for the problem now with clean signal . Can you tell me , the 4.7 nf ( in 10-W , 10-Y ) take signal from 1st pin of ic1(the out) . Soo after the 4.7nf the signal is too low. This is normal ?

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  7. What is audio probe and how I use that ?

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    1. Ohhh I search for audio probe and its very useful tool .. thank you for this info , so I plug the jack probe in amp and the guitar in pedal ( better I record a clean signal from my guitar and I make to play in loop in the input of pedal ) . Thank you thank you .. I try it

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    2. Yes, very useful tool. hopefully you got the problem sorted out:-).

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    3. Thanx again for the info .. I found the problem , I forgot to put 470kohm resistior left on ic1.. maybe I’m tired last night to built ..now I have signal, but it’s clean . I turn the gain pot right to left and nothing happen. I resolder gain pot . Nothing again. I try to connect the aggressive wires , but only the signal bright up , little little overdrive ... I check the leds in board and bright little when I rotate the gain knob ... any idea ,?..I forgot to say , when I unplug the 2-3 gain wire . When I touch it , it make a noise like distortion but without my signal ...I try with the audio probe to find the distortion signal :(

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    4. I forgot to say , the eq pots works fine ... but why I have clean signal ? I use tl072cp

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    5. It is moving forward... the if you are using a probe after pin 1 of IC1 the signal should be fairly clean since at that stage the signal is only boosted. The culprit could be thasecond part of IC1....since your gain control doesn't work. Check 56k resistor and make sure you haven't mixed up wires regarding the switch and gain pot. Just an idea....

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    6. Soo the gain control is in the B channel of ic1? ..namely I found the “gain” signal after where spot? 7pin of ic1??... fuzzhead thank you so much for your help . Really .. now I check the 56k and it’s fine , but I touch my finger in that spot and the led bright up and make the distortion noise but without my signal ... I check the switch wires if mixed ... I send when I check it. But tell me if the gain signal came from 7pin of ic1?!?

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    7. yes, pin 7 of IC1 is the output signal spot. The gain Control determines the amount o gain in the feedback loop between pin 6 and7)with minimum limiting resistor of 56k. I Think you are on the right track.

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    8. Fuzz head !!! I resolve the problem !!!!!! The f@€&ing switch wire mix it .,, I unplug from board and the sound hear distortion!!!!!!!! I’m sooooi happy man .... work great !!! Verify that hell dist!!!! Thanx a lot fuzzhead .

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  8. Hey, whats that black circles on the jumpers? Jumpers with cut? Or two jumpers meet at that point? Thx

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    1. It is two jumpers that meets in a shared hole, a.k.a. "doublelink".

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    2. Thank you! And what is that CLR resistor?

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    3. It is a Current Limiting Resistor for your bypass LED. 2,2k and up to 47k depending on type of LED and desired brightness.

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    4. Thx. Sry, now I see the line, i was tired to realize.

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  9. hello! in jumper n7 q7 with the audio probe I have no audio signal but a hum, is it normal? them does not pass the audio signal that goes to pin 3 of the ic2 ??

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  10. I forgot to add here my YouTube video with the G4

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=VsJ4_COS8Sw&pp=sAQA

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  11. hey guys i'm having some weird problems with my build. i don't have any dpdt switches with me right now so i just left it out. it should still work as fuzzhead said above. but i don't get any signal, unless, either the switch 4&6 row or gain 2&3 row touches the enclosure. and even then none of the pots do anything except for the mid and volume. other pots don't do anything. anyone got any clues?

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    1. Hard to know what the issue could be....do you have any voltages?

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  12. yeah here they are:
    IC1(bottom):
    1=4.87 8=9.72
    2=4.85 7=4.84
    3=3.26 6=4.03
    4=0.00 5=4.64

    IC2(middle):
    1=0.72 8=9.72
    2=9.08 7=4.85
    3=4.85 6=4.85
    4=0.00 5=4.79

    IC3(top)
    1=4.85 8=9.72
    2=4.85 7=5.01
    3=3.31 6=4.85
    4=0.00 5=4.83

    are these normal? ic2 looks odd but i'm no expert.

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    1. Yeah, pin 1 and 2 at IC2 is way off. You might need to start looking for solder bridges, compenent placement and cuts. Start at 4,7/10k junction right to IC1. Then you can check the are left to IC2 up to the LED at IC3.

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    2. found the problem man. was a solder bridge. thanks for the help dude.

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  13. Build this, fail from the first by perfboard and NOW works like a charm ; follow the layout with neat work, you'll get the good result.. excellent layout, thank you so much~
    shot Insta demo here:
    https://www.instagram.com/p/CRrB8SJB-nQ/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

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  14. hi! which software do you use to make these layouts?
    thanks in advance!

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    1. Oh, it is just DIYLC with some customized parts.

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    2. Thanks! Didn't expect you'd reply so quickly :)

      Is there any way to work with net lists in DIYLC (like you can in Eagle and other PCB design software)?
      My goal is to draw a SCHEMATIC first, and then have the software help me do the layout, by showing which necessary connections are not made yet, and highlight if I made an extra connection that is not present in the schematic.
      I want to be able to make my own circuits (including a lot of non-audio stuff) on vero (which I have in ample supply).
      Thanks in advance!

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  15. No, I dont think DIYLC has net lists like Eagle. Its been awhile since I used DIYLC but I use Eagle a lot. You can always use Eagle to make single sided drawings and etch your own pcbs from the drawings. I have heard of people doing that but havent tried it myself yet.

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  16. I built this board, it works fine, but during the test with some flying wires and some parts on socket pin, I got, just sometime, oscillation. I hope to solve it when I'll solder the input and output wires on the jacks, probably shielded cable, and I'll solder those experimental parts directly.

    But there's a thing I noticed: the Treble pot is a 50k LINEAR, while on the PedalPCB schematic is 50k LOG. So I tried a log one, and it was pretty unbalanced, while the linear works much better.
    I also built the G2 months ago, and the G2 has the same "mistake" of the treble pot. I don't remember what pot I used, but my built it's ok. The schematic are identical but with some different values.

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    1. I back on 50k log pot for Treble, I made a little mistake early, I prefer the log, even if the linear it's not so bad.
      I soldered all the parts directly on the board without any socket pin, but I have oscillation issue with the more aggressive mode of the DPDT switch. It sounds awesome, but over 1/4 of the gain I got this bad whine. I tried with battery anche it change just the tune of the whine.
      I'm going to try shielded cable for input and output.

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    2. Nevermind! I forgot to solder the 22uF. This happens, when you resume the circuits after a long time.

      Anyway, as Treble pot try a log, too.

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  17. Built it - excellent! Subbed IC 1 for 4558, IC 2 and 3 NE5532- one of the best distorting circuits I've played. Can't recommend enough.

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  18. Just boxed the G4,, definitely sounds killer, and is a joy to play through!!

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  19. The second one is correct with 1 & 4 on the top and 3 & 6 on the bottom

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  20. Now I have a new problem, The pedal whine when I turn up the volume pot and the treble pot seems to affect the whine too. Not sure about the rest yet.

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    1. Nvm I just have to connect the ground to the amp ground to fix it.

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  21. There's a capacitor missing, another 100nF. It should be parallel to the 100uF cap.

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  22. I'm not working again.
    I have assembled the circuit, the sound is very quiet, barely audible when the combo is turned up to full volume. The first time I tried soldering the connections, at some point the volume became normal, but the pedal only works when the mid knob is at max. When I turned down the mids, the sound became ripped.
    From a lot of re-soldering, the tracks started to fall off. I put the circuit back together on a new board and it doesn't work again, the sound is very quiet again. Can you tell me what I can do?

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    1. BTW, in both cases if I look at the internal LEDs, they glow as if the pedal is working properly. As I understood, the problem is somewhere after them

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    2. now i have IC3:
      1=4.09; 8=8.9
      2=4.10; 7=0.01
      3=2.90; 6=4.3
      4=0.00; 5=4.10

      it looks like 7 is wrong, idk why. If the mid pot is on max then 7=1.3, if I turn down the mid, 7th out tends to 0

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  23. Is it ok to use a 100kA volume pot?

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