Built this, didn't have quite the right diodes for D1 and D2 so I tried 1 red led and 1n4148. The switch has minimal impact on tone. I do have a couple of diodes in series I might try. Other than that the circuit is interesting.
Built this recently but having an issue with the pedal engaging and disengaging. Basically rather a pop sound, it’s like a volume dip almost. Both when engaging and disengaging. Tried different circuits in my test circuit and it works okay so it’s not my test circuit. It’s just a standard 3pdt off board wiring. Only parts I’ve really changed is the 510k to 560k and 56k instead of the weird 53k. Any ideas? Thanks
Yeah I tried putting this on my board for a gig comming up and noticed the pop..and it caused OTHER pedals to pop when it was engaged. It does have a cap discharge resistor... not sure what else can be done
I couldn't let this go so I did some testing... turns out there is some DC voltage leaking into the output path, just like .005 of a volt or so with 9V input, but clearly enough to make a pop.
I put a 100nf cap between the output of the board and the switch, and a 680nf cap between the output jack and the switch. The pop is much less now. I wonder if the output cap here is not in the right place or value. Regardless I think you should be fine with just one output cap to the between the switch and the output wire on the board.
I built one, using it with ICL 7660S, but it doesn't come out sound, potentiometer and sw don't work. IC3 appears to be heating up considerably. Can someone help me ?
Make sure you test the circuit before putting it in a box with jacks and a switch which will remove the 'offboard wiring' as the fault.
Then
This falls under the common debugging steps 1) using good light and high magnification make sure there are no solder bridges between tracks or pads 2) for vero make sure all cuts are made all the way through, verify with a continuity test. 3) for vero make sure you have the double link in the right place 4) verify polarity of all caps and diodes 5) for vero verify location of all legs of all components going one at the time If all of the above are fine (and make sure you spend a good amount of time checking and rechecking) You either have a wrong value or a bad part. 6) verify each and every value 7) replace the IC/transistors and test again
Sounds like your charge pump is the wrong type, could be the 7660 rather than the 7660S. I've had the same issue in the past, bought 7660S from eBay but they were actually 7660. Try a different charge pump from a different supplier.
I made this as well and was having a problem with popping when engaging/disengaging, as there was DC on the output (about 8 volts!). Taking a look at the schematic, there is a small error on the layout. The connection for the 10K resistor at Q17 should connect to ground and not that junction of the 10uf and 15K. You can fix this by simply moving the cut at Q16 to Q18, which will connect the 10K to ground instead. After that, no more DC on the output and no more popping! Thanks fuzzhead for the layout!!
Confirmed. I just applied this fix (well I moved the leg of that resistor to the leg of the other 10K resistor since I had built this a while back. The pop is gone.
Been waiting for this one, got to order some parts. Thank you and Happy New Year
ReplyDeletehappy new year and thanks for a million layouts, superb!!!
ReplyDeleteHermano, muchas gracias por todo ese excelente trabajo,te deseo un excelente año
ReplyDeletePlease do the PG-14! lol... thank you for this one :)
ReplyDeleteHi fuzzhead, happy New year.It is verified, but to make it work you need :1) Cut in Q18.2) Move 10k (Q2 emitter)from R16 to Q16.
ReplyDeleteHappy New Year and thanks for verifying! Added a cut and moved the emitter resistor to row Q.
DeleteBuilt this, didn't have quite the right diodes for D1 and D2 so I tried 1 red led and 1n4148. The switch has minimal impact on tone. I do have a couple of diodes in series I might try. Other than that the circuit is interesting.
ReplyDeleteBuilt this recently but having an issue with the pedal engaging and disengaging. Basically rather a pop sound, it’s like a volume dip almost. Both when engaging and disengaging. Tried different circuits in my test circuit and it works okay so it’s not my test circuit. It’s just a standard 3pdt off board wiring. Only parts I’ve really changed is the 510k to 560k and 56k instead of the weird 53k. Any ideas? Thanks
ReplyDeleteIm having this same issue.
DeleteYeah I tried putting this on my board for a gig comming up and noticed the pop..and it caused OTHER pedals to pop when it was engaged. It does have a cap discharge resistor... not sure what else can be done
DeleteMine also has a very loud pop. I'm going to try a relay switch to see if it's mechanical, but my guess is it's going to take an optical bypass switch.
DeleteBuilt this with MPF102 JFETs as clippers, sounds pretty excellent. Haven't rocked it too much but I have high hopes. Excellent layout!
ReplyDeleteI couldn't let this go so I did some testing... turns out there is some DC voltage leaking into the output path, just like .005 of a volt or so with 9V input, but clearly enough to make a pop.
ReplyDeleteI put a 100nf cap between the output of the board and the switch, and a 680nf cap between the output jack and the switch. The pop is much less now. I wonder if the output cap here is not in the right place or value. Regardless I think you should be fine with just one output cap to the between the switch and the output wire on the board.
I built one, using it with ICL 7660S, but it doesn't come out sound, potentiometer and sw don't work. IC3 appears to be heating up considerably. Can someone help me ?
ReplyDeleteThe layout, when done properly, does work.
DeleteMake sure you test the circuit before putting it in a box with jacks and a switch which will remove the 'offboard wiring' as the fault.
Then
This falls under the common debugging steps
1) using good light and high magnification make sure there are no solder bridges between tracks or pads
2) for vero make sure all cuts are made all the way through, verify with a continuity test.
3) for vero make sure you have the double link in the right place
4) verify polarity of all caps and diodes
5) for vero verify location of all legs of all components going one at the time
If all of the above are fine (and make sure you spend a good amount of time checking and rechecking)
You either have a wrong value or a bad part.
6) verify each and every value
7) replace the IC/transistors and test again
I managed to get it to work, however, now there is a beeping sound in the background. Any suggestions as to what it could be?
Deletethe only thing I changed was the 51pf capacitor for a 47pf one
DeleteAny kind of rhythmic ticking, whistling etc my first inclination would be to check that charge pump IC.
DeleteBut what do you recommend being done, any suggestions?
ReplyDeletethe whistle gets louder when I increase the tone
Sounds like your charge pump is the wrong type, could be the 7660 rather than the 7660S. I've had the same issue in the past, bought 7660S from eBay but they were actually 7660. Try a different charge pump from a different supplier.
DeleteJá verifiquei, é um 7660S.
ReplyDeleteI made this as well and was having a problem with popping when engaging/disengaging, as there was DC on the output (about 8 volts!). Taking a look at the schematic, there is a small error on the layout. The connection for the 10K resistor at Q17 should connect to ground and not that junction of the 10uf and 15K. You can fix this by simply moving the cut at Q16 to Q18, which will connect the 10K to ground instead. After that, no more DC on the output and no more popping! Thanks fuzzhead for the layout!!
ReplyDeleteConfirmed. I just applied this fix (well I moved the leg of that resistor to the leg of the other 10K resistor since I had built this a while back. The pop is gone.
Delete