Incidentally if you have any tips for dealing with the ticking that would be great. I've tried upping the filter caps, different IC's, resistors around IC2 etc etc, but nothing seems to work.
So it turns out the ticking disappears with a buffer before it. If the ticking is bleed from the LF442 then why would the buffer fix it? Genuinely curious.
Just picked up an original for a pretty amazing price! Couple of things worth noting is that C1 is a 2.2uf cap in the original. R6 (33k) is 75K and there's one less 1M and one less 100k. Quite a few 0r resistors connecting things too. I haven't taken it apart yet to look at the connections on the back of the PCB, but there are definitely differences comparing it to the commonly available schematic.
Just a quick correction. It's 20 x 21. Cheers, Ben.
ReplyDeleteAnd 16 links.
DeleteIC2 is LF 442, not 422.
DeleteTag it. I’ve got the faint tick, tick, tick, but I had the same with the Tagbord version.
DeleteCheers Ben!
DeleteTagged.
Incidentally if you have any tips for dealing with the ticking that would be great. I've tried upping the filter caps, different IC's, resistors around IC2 etc etc, but nothing seems to work.
DeleteHi Ben, have you tried replacing the LF442 for a TL022.
DeleteHi Ian, I have but it's the same unfortunately. Cheers, Ben.
DeleteSo it turns out the ticking disappears with a buffer before it. If the ticking is bleed from the LF442 then why would the buffer fix it? Genuinely curious.
DeleteJust picked up an original for a pretty amazing price! Couple of things worth noting is that C1 is a 2.2uf cap in the original. R6 (33k) is 75K and there's one less 1M and one less 100k. Quite a few 0r resistors connecting things too. I haven't taken it apart yet to look at the connections on the back of the PCB, but there are definitely differences comparing it to the commonly available schematic.
Delete