Since I'm pretty much slushed and decked by the Covid flu at the moment, this one will be the last layout for a while... Over and out...but first some marketing spell.
The Hizumitas was designed for the one and only guitar sorceress, Wata, from the legendary band, Boris! We could not be more excited to have the honor of working with such an iconic legend known for her crushing riffs and mind-melting leads. The Hizumitas is a faithful sonic recreation of her go-to distortion which has been a staple of her tone for many years: the Elk BM Sustainar.
Yer a pimp. This thing looks rad. Must try asap.
ReplyDeleteAnd get well soon. Will this ever end? If and when it does we should all convene and form a hundred guitar band.
ReplyDeleteGet well soon. And thank you for everything.
ReplyDeleteBe well soon
ReplyDeleteYou are in my prayers for healing. Hope you feel better soon. Thanks for all your hard work.
ReplyDeleteplease get well soon! lots of rest too
ReplyDeleteGet better!
ReplyDeleteVery sad to hear that you are ill, Anders! I wish you speedy recovery! Take care of you!
ReplyDeleteIs there a dedicated Pedal Request area? I would like to request the EHX’s Tri Parallel Mixer or similar. Well wishes too all and to all, a good year. I love this site!!!
ReplyDeleteGet well soon Anders. Please be safe everyone.
ReplyDeleteGet well soon
ReplyDeleteGet well soon!
ReplyDeleteWorks great!
ReplyDeletejust tone 1 and 3 reversed.
Get well soon.
Thanks for verifying. The main quirk is that the Tone control is supoosed to be in reverse; CCW Treble, CW Bass.
Deletehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=isvM4ETL9Mo
Thank you brother, recover soon, we are very grateful for your work and you are very important to us, we look forward to your speedy recovery
ReplyDeleteThanks guys! Much appreciated!
ReplyDeleteHope you have a speedy recovery Anders. Have been waiting for a look under the hood of this one. I was surprised to see the 3n3 cap instead of the 330p that’s shown on the schematics for the Elk. 3n3 is not that far off a regular BMP compared to 330p. I’ve tried it on LTspice, will have to make one to hear it in person.
ReplyDeleteThank you for all your layouts, take care of yourself and get well soon!
ReplyDeleteGet well soon!
ReplyDeleteGet well soon sir!
ReplyDeleteGet well soon, speedy recovery.
ReplyDeleteFuzz head - I have something I want to post to you. Please email me
ReplyDeleteiansheridan1978@gmail.com
get well soon.. youre awesome
ReplyDeleteTake care man!!
ReplyDeletei count 17 Cuts
ReplyDeleteAlso just came to say this, laying out my cuts now. This has bumped my Klon builds down the list.
Deletetag as verified and kick-ass! my favorite muff variant i've played, instant melvins in a box
ReplyDeleteQuestion: which cap(s) would I need to adjust if I wanted to get a little more range from the tone sweep? Would like to reduce the bass at the 'treble end' if possible. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteFirst thing I would try would be a 100k tone pot since the increased resistance will give a larger sepearion between the two filters.
DeleteHere's mine...
ReplyDeletehttps://photos.app.goo.gl/HTM9C534tijE5d6Q9
https://youtu.be/a9yJj8IWNDk
Is this thing supposed to be super dark? I put one together last night and man, its darker than a green muff. But its based on an Elk which is based on a Triangle. The Tri isn't known to be this dark.
ReplyDeleteI think I had a bad disc cap. Amazing that such a small value can have such a huge effect sometimes. Anyway, I stole rocket88’s mid switch idea from his tagboardeffects layout. It connects to the collector of Q3 and lug 3 of your tone pot. I forget the exact values off the top of my head. So I shared a hole with the disc on the top right. You could also leave an extra row for space when building. Thanks
ReplyDeleteIt wants a lower gain silicon transistor. Typically something like a 2N2222 or 2N2222A will work as a sub. It's a really good Muff, the Hiz. If you do try it with the 549, be mindful of the pin-outs. You might have to swing them 180 degrees. If you have sockets, use 'em and then plug in the 2N3904's when you get some. The 1N5817 is there for power protection only. It doesn't effect the signal. So you can just add another link there as a jumper if you need to.
ReplyDeleteCheers dude, I'll just wait until I get some 2N3904s then give it a go. There were one or two other parts that I thought I had in stock but I don't.
DeleteSo I started this a while ago and couldn't get it working so I left it. I've went back to it tonight and noticed one or two mistakes. The only problem I'm having now is that I'm getting continuity between Tone lugs 2 and 3 and I can't figure out why. They're not touching on the board, there's no loose wires between them and their not touching on the pot. I've checked, double checked and triple checked but can't see any bridges. Could a dodgy pot cause this?
ReplyDeleteDoesn't matter, figured out why, feel like an eejit lol. Still not working though. Found a new issue, volume pot isn't showing the max resistance value when I put the multimeter on lugs 1 & 3, but it does show the sweep when I put it on lugs 1 & 2 and turn the pot.
Delete...and this one got a verified MOJO layout as well.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThanks fuzzhead! Another successful build! I used the compact layout and it sounds pretty great. I had to purchase a few of the odd sizes that I didn't have sitting around but I think it was worth it so I could play around with this circuit. I'll test it more & compare to my other muffs once I get it boxed.
ReplyDeleteSeeing a few of the comments above - I ended up swapping the 50KB tone for a 100kb. I would highly recommend as mine seemed a bit muddy like I couldn't dial in the right sound (there just didn't seem to be enough range). It's still a bit tricky to lock in a "perfect" sound on this one but I definitely enjoy playing it more now.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHad a second crack at this circuit after being a bit over ambitious a few years ago and trying it as my first ever stripboard circuit.
ReplyDeleteIm getting signal through it this time, but it's heavily gated. I can't seem to find the issue, but it seems to be linked around the tone stack. I swapped the tone pot to 100k, but it didn't make any difference. I've checked and triple checked for any bridges or components in the wrong place, but nothing's amiss. I did notice that none of the 390k resistors were reading 390k in my multimeter, could something be affecting their value?
I highly doubt it has anything to do with the tone stack, gating is caused by a mis-biased transistor?
ReplyDelete