fired up right away and sounds amazing! I used 220 uf and 100 uf in parallel in place of 330 uf cap. I'm amazed by how noiseless this circuit stays even with the gain all the way up! stacks pretty well with other dirt pedals. thanks fuzzhead!
I have heard that the buffered 4049s are a big problem, but I've never tried one to understand what it does. Have you checked voltages? If I remember correctly, you've got the bulk tied to 9v that of course should be close to that, you've got the one ground, and then you should have a few volts on the pins that are actually tied to components (there are quite a few pins that aren't really tied to anything. I would also want to bypass the tone temporarily and see if that does anything. I have CD4049s I ordered from Amazon, and they work perfectly fine.
I'm not familiar with the reissue with tone control, but I feel like the pins should be tied in with the 9v after the 1k resistor, not before. I have no idea what, if any effect this would have. My understanding is that the 1k resistor cuts noise, but also limits current, but that the voltage will be different on all those pins. Probably won't stop it from working though.
Hey Ian, where did you get your CD4049UBE's from. Almost all the ones on eBay are Chinese fake and either don't work or are just plain rubbish. I have a bag of about 20 fakes that don't work. Better get them from CPC, RS or Mouser.
I had the same issues in the past mate, used to buy loads off components from eBay but now I don't buy anything. CPC Farnell and Mouser is the way to go, just buy enough to get free postage (about £30) a time. Ebay sellers charge a couple of quid for 20 resistors while you can get 100 on CPC Farnell for 60p, other stuff is cheap enough also and at least you know its not fake
I saw an interview with Jeorge Tripps where he said that Tom Petty actually stole one of his early Red Llama builds. It's a pretty funny story.
At any rate, I think the CD4049 chips are really underrated. They distort very beautifully, but I haven't really seen that many designs with them. And they're so easy to build with, you can render each stage with just a few components. My only issues is that I hate having to tie so many of the inputs to 9V, and I can't imagine ever using all of them.
Yeah, the high cut filter is pretty simple, if you have a voltmeter, I would measure the resistance between lug 1 and 2 on the filter pot. You should see it increase or decrease as you turn the knob. If that looks good, do a continuity check to make sure lug 2 is tied to ground, and lug 1 is tied to your 33n capacitor. It should be a pretty dramatic cut, if I'm reading it correctly.
Sorry to revive an old thread, but I just fired mine up and had a similar issue. I've got it wired so that volume 1 is daisy chained to lug 3+2 on the hi-cut knob, with the wire ending at lug 2. Should it be the other way around? The pedal sounds awesome, but the hi-cut doesn't seem to have any discernible effect.
How would I go about modding this circuit to fix Hi-Cut at max (darkest setting) and Drive at 0? Effectively just making it a one-knob pedal (Volume only).
I always stack other pedals into this at one setting, so it would be awesome to save myself some pots!
To get rid of the drive pot add a link between i1 and l1 - I believe to simulate the hi-cut at max, add a 100k resistor between d15 and c15 (you'll have to stand one end up)
I just finished this one yesterday and the hi-cut knob doesn't seem to be doing anything. Everything else is working, the drive sounds freaking awesome, but the hi-cut is either so subtle I can't hear a difference or just isn't doing anything. I checked with my multimeter to measure the pot itself and the readings increased/decreased as I went through the sweep. Got continuity from lug 2 to ground, as well as lug 1 to the upper right 33nF cap. Any ideas what might be causing it to not do much? Thanks!
Might be a silly question, but does it matter which way I've daisy chained lugs 2 & 3? Right now I have it so that the wire starts with lug 2 and comes out of lug 3, which then connects to lug 1 on the volume pot. Would reversing that make any difference?
Hmmm. So i replaced the pot just to be sure, ran a knife between all the tracks, triple checked the connections for everything that I think the pot is connected to, and am still not getting any kind of hi-cut. I did notice when testing different continuity points that I'm only getting continuity between lug 1 and one end of the 33nF cap. Is that normal?
Have you checked to make sure your cut at D13 is good? The hi-cut is super simple - make sure one end of your 33nf is connected to volume 3, the other end of the 33nf should connect to lug 1 of hi-cut, then lugs 2+3 to ground. The hi,-cut is just a cap+potential resistor at the very end of the circuit. If replacing the pot didn't work, check that your 33nf capacitor is good, because those are literally the only two components to the hi-cut and it's most definitely a noticable effect when working properly.
I'll have another go at D13 just to be safe. Thanks for the info! At least there's not much to that portion, so hopefully one of those two things will do the trick.
I am confused re the vol pot. Typically Vol 3 takes the board output, Vol 1 attaches to ground and Vol 2 goes to output jack. In this vero layout both output and vol 2 are connected to the top row. This means that the output is connected to ground via the 1M resistor A12 - C12. Is this so or am I completely mad?
Just built a Llama and thought, damn, I wish it had a high cut, then this pops up!! Perfect timing :-))
ReplyDeleteHere to confirm this is verified! incase anyone was wondering. Sounds great! Used a 220uf instead of 330uf.
ReplyDeleteCool!. Tagged.
Deletefired up right away and sounds amazing! I used 220 uf and 100 uf in parallel in place of 330 uf cap. I'm amazed by how noiseless this circuit stays even with the gain all the way up! stacks pretty well with other dirt pedals. thanks fuzzhead!
ReplyDeleteI have it done today, but the hi-cut pots seems like no function? am i got in some issue?
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThings with chips never work for me!😭
ReplyDeleteI love this pedal! What is it doing (or failing to do)?
DeleteComplete deadness. I keep staring and everything looks right. 😬
DeleteI have heard that the buffered 4049s are a big problem, but I've never tried one to understand what it does. Have you checked voltages? If I remember correctly, you've got the bulk tied to 9v that of course should be close to that, you've got the one ground, and then you should have a few volts on the pins that are actually tied to components (there are quite a few pins that aren't really tied to anything. I would also want to bypass the tone temporarily and see if that does anything. I have CD4049s I ordered from Amazon, and they work perfectly fine.
DeleteI'm not familiar with the reissue with tone control, but I feel like the pins should be tied in with the 9v after the 1k resistor, not before. I have no idea what, if any effect this would have. My understanding is that the 1k resistor cuts noise, but also limits current, but that the voltage will be different on all those pins. Probably won't stop it from working though.
DeleteHey Ian, where did you get your CD4049UBE's from. Almost all the ones on eBay are Chinese fake and either don't work or are just plain rubbish. I have a bag of about 20 fakes that don't work. Better get them from CPC, RS or Mouser.
ReplyDeleteIt's from eBay! I'd really like to think it's that....I've just had this experience with some MOSFETS... thought my rat didn't work...it was the FET
ReplyDeleteI had the same issues in the past mate, used to buy loads off components from eBay but now I don't buy anything. CPC Farnell and Mouser is the way to go, just buy enough to get free postage (about £30) a time. Ebay sellers charge a couple of quid for 20 resistors while you can get 100 on CPC Farnell for 60p, other stuff is cheap enough also and at least you know its not fake
ReplyDeleteGood advice. thank you 👍
DeleteNew chip and it fired up!
ReplyDeleteThank you as always 🙏
https://youtu.be/kZqhW2MOymA
ReplyDeleteSounds great! I love this pedal.
DeleteI saw an interview with Jeorge Tripps where he said that Tom Petty actually stole one of his early Red Llama builds. It's a pretty funny story.
At any rate, I think the CD4049 chips are really underrated. They distort very beautifully, but I haven't really seen that many designs with them. And they're so easy to build with, you can render each stage with just a few components. My only issues is that I hate having to tie so many of the inputs to 9V, and I can't imagine ever using all of them.
Thank you👍👍
DeleteApparently the ehx hot tubes uses one
And some sort of dwarfcraft Fuzz as well?
does the hi-cut knot work? mine had no function at all
DeleteYeah, the high cut filter is pretty simple, if you have a voltmeter, I would measure the resistance between lug 1 and 2 on the filter pot. You should see it increase or decrease as you turn the knob. If that looks good, do a continuity check to make sure lug 2 is tied to ground, and lug 1 is tied to your 33n capacitor. It should be a pretty dramatic cut, if I'm reading it correctly.
DeleteSorry to revive an old thread, but I just fired mine up and had a similar issue. I've got it wired so that volume 1 is daisy chained to lug 3+2 on the hi-cut knob, with the wire ending at lug 2. Should it be the other way around? The pedal sounds awesome, but the hi-cut doesn't seem to have any discernible effect.
DeleteIt does yes.
ReplyDeleteMaybe try a different pot?
ReplyDeleteIf I'm using a foot switch daughter board with the spaces for the led and clr on it do I just omit them from this circuit?
ReplyDeleteHow would I go about modding this circuit to fix Hi-Cut at max (darkest setting) and Drive at 0? Effectively just making it a one-knob pedal (Volume only).
ReplyDeleteI always stack other pedals into this at one setting, so it would be awesome to save myself some pots!
To get rid of the drive pot add a link between i1 and l1 - I believe to simulate the hi-cut at max, add a 100k resistor between d15 and c15 (you'll have to stand one end up)
DeleteI just finished this one yesterday and the hi-cut knob doesn't seem to be doing anything. Everything else is working, the drive sounds freaking awesome, but the hi-cut is either so subtle I can't hear a difference or just isn't doing anything.
ReplyDeleteI checked with my multimeter to measure the pot itself and the readings increased/decreased as I went through the sweep. Got continuity from lug 2 to ground, as well as lug 1 to the upper right 33nF cap. Any ideas what might be causing it to not do much? Thanks!
There isn't much to the hi cut. Make sure that your connections are good and knife between your tracks. You could just have a short somewhere.
DeleteCool, yea I'll go back and double check anything.
DeleteMight be a silly question, but does it matter which way I've daisy chained lugs 2 & 3? Right now I have it so that the wire starts with lug 2 and comes out of lug 3, which then connects to lug 1 on the volume pot. Would reversing that make any difference?
Vol 1 connects to the board and from lug 1 connects to 2/3 of the hi cut pot. No that should be right.
DeleteHmmm. So i replaced the pot just to be sure, ran a knife between all the tracks, triple checked the connections for everything that I think the pot is connected to, and am still not getting any kind of hi-cut. I did notice when testing different continuity points that I'm only getting continuity between lug 1 and one end of the 33nF cap. Is that normal?
DeleteHave you checked to make sure your cut at D13 is good? The hi-cut is super simple - make sure one end of your 33nf is connected to volume 3, the other end of the 33nf should connect to lug 1 of hi-cut, then lugs 2+3 to ground. The hi,-cut is just a cap+potential resistor at the very end of the circuit. If replacing the pot didn't work, check that your 33nf capacitor is good, because those are literally the only two components to the hi-cut and it's most definitely a noticable effect when working properly.
DeleteI'll have another go at D13 just to be safe. Thanks for the info! At least there's not much to that portion, so hopefully one of those two things will do the trick.
DeleteI am confused re the vol pot. Typically Vol 3 takes the board output, Vol 1 attaches to ground and Vol 2 goes to output jack. In this vero layout both output and vol 2 are connected to the top row. This means that the output is connected to ground via the 1M resistor A12 - C12. Is this so or am I completely mad?
ReplyDeleteBonjour avez vous une réponse j'ai fait le même constat... Merci
Delete