One of the craziest things I've heard. An op amp fuzz that tickles a Phase Locked Loop IC from one of my DIY heroes, Fredrik Lyxén of Parasit Studio. Schematic, demo and more info HERE.
One of the craziest things I've heard. An op amp fuzz that tickles a Phase Locked Loop IC from one of my DIY heroes, Fredrik Lyxén of Parasit Studio. Schematic, demo and more info HERE.
I'll have to give this a try. I love Parasit stuff. So far, I've built the Darkadiator, Sidescroller, Quantum Defrakulator, and most recently, the super massive C19 Databus. All of them are amazing and a total blast to play. He does such awesome work.
ReplyDeleteAgreed, all amazing stuff.
DeleteYeah, I saw your C19 Databus build, your enclosure looks fantastic, really gives an old school synth vibe.
I whipped this one up last night but I’m
ReplyDeleteNot getting it right 100 percent. Only three of the positions work on the rotary switch unless I move the “switch 1” wire to lug 5. I’m also not getting any lfo stuff like in the video. The pot just makes the crazy, gated sound even more sputtery when turned up. Very likely that it’s a problem on my end since I finished late and didn’t spend much time yet troubleshooting, but otherwise a very interesting sounding effect.
I will build this tomorrow and report my experience of it....
DeleteWhat guitar and pickups do you use? The build doc recommends using humbucker neck pickup with tone control rolled back to get the most out of it...
https://www.parasitstudio.se/uploads/2/4/4/9/2449159/raygun_youth_11_doc.pdf
I always use a strat with neck pickup for testing. I’ll try it after with humbuckers and see if that works.
DeleteJust finsihed it and all four positions works although it is not sounding exatctly as the demo on Parasit Studios site. Sounds more like this:
ReplyDeletehttps://youtu.be/gtefAnCgj4A
Position four of the rotary behaves a bit odd though,initially the signal chokes off when you hit the strings but the signal returns after a few seconds. I'll try it with another guitar with weaker pickups.
So I scrapped this board and rebuilt using the layout on the Parasit site and I'm getting the same results. Kinda neat sounds but not like in the video demos, and also no sound at all on setting four. I wonder if its an error on the schematic, or possibly a bad batch of 4046's
ReplyDeleteI'm leaning to that it is a bug in the schematic since both Freppos layout and mine behaves the same, my build seem to behave the same as yours and I highly doubt we both got a bad batch of 4046s. :-) My 4046s works fine in other circuits....
DeleteNow I wonder what the possible bug could be....?
I might have figured it out..
ReplyDeleteSo if you move all four wires labeled "switch 1" to "switch 4" down one position everything seems to work properly. So "switch 1" on the layout actually hooks up to switch 2 on your 4p3t switch, and so on, with "switch 4" actually ending on what would be switch 5. Doesn't seem to make sense but just try it and you'll see. Now all four positions seem to work just like in the video.
Note: "Switch a" doesn't change.
wow, good job, man. How did you figure that out?
DeleteNeed to dig out my build to try it out...
Layout is updated and marked as verified.
I figured out that it was the wire from "switch 1" that wasn't working so I tried it on the rotary switches fifth position. While it didn't sound right, I WAS getting signal in all positions. I had the hunch just to bump each wire down one position in the right order and it worked nicely.
DeleteIt's a super cool noise/fuzz circuit, I'm definitely boxing this one.
Built this today following the updated wiring, using position 2, 3, 4 and 5 on the switch, and it didn't work right (no sound on position 1 and a double up on 3 and 4). Reverted back to the old wiring, using position 1, 2, 4 and 4 on the switch, and it worked perfect. Must depend on the switch manufacturer? The one I used was from China but I have another from CPC Farnell that looks different so who knows??
ReplyDeleteThis sounds very similar to the demos I've heard. I think this will be a fun one. I built the Shoe Pixel the other day. Another great one.
ReplyDeleteI've built it yesterday. It's fantastic. Everything works fine!!
ReplyDeleteHey there, what type of switch did you use?
ReplyDeleteI could only source one coming from China from ebay
Expensive on eBay. Try this
ReplyDeletehttps://cpc.farnell.com/lorlin/ck1051/switch-3-pole-4-pos/dp/SW02749?st=3p4t%20rotary%20switch
You need to spend 17 quid for free postage tho but could be a good time to stock up - they are cheap.
Tayda has two types. Both around a buck or so.
ReplyDeleteI built this and used an Alpha 3p4t switch from Tayda (SR2511-0304) and had the same issues that Ian mentioned above. I rewired the switch to use Lug A and Lugs 1-4 and it's working correctly. Sounds great. Thanks for the layout Anders.
ReplyDeleteThanks guys...I'll try and take a pic of the switch pnow it's arrived and hopefully someone can tell me what I've got🤣🤦
DeleteThis is the switch I got....what do you guys think?
ReplyDeletehttps://photos.app.goo.gl/89Gt459nsQaVez9p6
Should be ok as long as you know the numbering, etc...
DeleteThis is what I buy
https://cpc.farnell.com/lorlin/ck1027/switch-4pole-3-pos/dp/SW04135?st=3p4t%20rotary%20switch
They have the numbers printed on the base
The switches I received from Tayda didn't have any marking/indicators, so I used a multimeter in continuity mode to figure out the order. I'm not sure how the switching will work if you're using a 4p3t instead of 3p4t?
DeleteThanks guys. I think I might be out my depth 😬
ReplyDeleteOk so this done didn't fly for me.
ReplyDeleteJust to add to the confusion...I only had fuzz on notch 1 and neither of the two wiring systems worked for me (when I bumped up all positions, notch '2' became the only working one.
I typically just check continuity between the A position and each of the lugs to see how the switch works. Do you have a multimeter?
ReplyDeleteHi mate. Yes because I thought I had these switches all figured out (I made the hi watt fuzz) this has gone to my was never meant to be pile. 🤷🏼♂️
DeleteHey everyone - I last attempted this circuit a couple years back and had some similar frustrations with the rotary switch not working properly - and after looking over the original schematic, I think I managed to clear up the confusion about the switch lug wiring. I used a 1p/12t rotary switch set to four throws and wired lug A is is shown here. But instead wired the pad marked "switch 2" to lug 1, "switch 3" to lug 2, "switch 4" to lug 3 and "switch 5" to lug 4 - fired up just fine and all four modes work exactly like the demos. Hope this helps for anyone attempting this one.
DeleteIt's a really good fuzz. I do remember wiring the switch in an odd way. Mine works as advertised. I never got much out of my Disorder control. Just cracked it open and noticed that I used a 50k pot instead of a 500k. doh!
Deletehah talk about "Doh!" - I recently spent a couple days trying to debug a board I've built literally dozens of. Spent a lot of time replacing sections of the circuit one component at a time, trying to be systematic - and nothing fixed the problems I was having. At some point I finally noticed that I had plugged the 3V regulator in backwards. The idea that, because we've built so many circuits, we must be incapable of doing something simple/stupid, is just not true. I try to remember that whenever I fire up my iron.
DeleteSuper keen to build this one. Ive ordered all the parts for this ready to go just waiting for my 3P4T rotary from Mouser coming tomorrow. Just finished getting the board ready. Being in a Sludge/Doom metal band I'm on a never ending conquest to find and build extreme fuzz and noise making pedals and it seem that CMOS based pedals is the best way to achieve such sonic abominations. I'll tell you how I go. Wish me luck :-)
ReplyDeleteyou are going to want to read all these comments re: the rotary switch wiring. You really only want to use one section of a 3P4T - so wire the switch A pad as it is shown here, but move all the numbered pads back one digit. "Switch 2" should actually be lug 1, "Switch 3" should actually be lug 2, and so on. I was having problems with this one until I figured this out recently. It was actually much easier for me to keep things straight in my head by just using a 1P12T and setting it to 4 throws.
DeleteThanks for the advice. Thankfully, i did :-) I went over the rotary positions with a DMM to make sure what was going through where and when. I wired the input to pole 1 and the outputs to the respective throws. I actually think I'll box this and use it on the new album I was supposed to start in 3 months ago but I caught the pedal building bug. I managed to build 12 pedals last week and most of them work lmao. I'm still having trouble with the CMOS based ones. My experience is mainly transistor based pedals, so I get a bit lost with troubleshooting them :-/
DeleteYep, she's a goer! Almost didn't happen because my order from Mouser got delivered to the wrong address, it went to the junkies downstairs and they went through everything and left all the components out in the rain. Thankfully rotary switches can't buy drugs. 😉 Anyway, I absolutely love this pedal! It's fun nuts! Dunno how to describe it; saturation on saturation with a little high end saturation to finish it off. It's really nuts and that's exactly what I was after :-)
ReplyDeleteI actually decided to rebuild mine and I'm glad I did. Turns out My 1st wasn't working properly. Originally "switch 3" wasn't working properly, plus some noise issues. The 2nd ones works beautifully. Its one of the craziest pedals I've heard. Just what I was looking for. For mods I'm thinking... with disorder, it can still be heard on zero. It'd be good to have no effect on zero, adding an expression pedal to control its level. No idea how to actuate that idea. It's a 500k pot and most exp are either 10k or 50k. Ideas are most welcome 😀
ReplyDeleteCan we get a picture of the switch loaded up to this page maybe?
ReplyDeleteI'd love to revisit this circuit
Hey Ian - I saw your email address on one of your comments on your YouTube channel - I can't post pics here but I'll snap one of the working build of this I did recently and send it to you.
Delete