Self Oscillates badly after first reverb. I've verified no bridges, and all bits are where they should be. I need to get a schematic and check the layout.
Found the error (deleted my last comment because of error in comment)
The 15K resistor on pin 12 of the PT2399 should not go to row 18. Rather it needs to join the 10K and 15K resistors on row 17 just after the cut on column 11.
I bodged that by soldering directly to the leg of the 10K on column 11 row 17 and now I get good reverb.
Perhaps move the 100NF cap right next to the 2399 (Pins 11/12) move teh cuts on rows 16,17 column 10 over to column 9, then move the 15K resistor over to column 10 and end it on row 17 with the other 1 resistors.
Cool. I made that change and it works a treat now. I'm now looking hard at the schematic and pondering adding some extra repeats rather than the fixed one repeat.. but that may get a bit... busy.
Doesn't appear so, but the fix is really easy. THe 15K resistor on pin 12 of the PT2399 (column 9) needs to go from Column 9 row N to Column 11 row Q or just attach it to the leg of that 10K resistor (or the 15K next to it.)
I just boxed mine with that one little bodge and it sounds great.
I’ve built this from the modded version in this thread, sounds really nice but the dwell knob doesn’t seem to do much and it doesn’t occilate anything like in the EQD demos. Are there any further mods to increase occilation?
Thanks! EQD FM General is modified Acetone FM-2 indeed. But I can't find a schematic for it, i.e. it has not been traced yet. Managed to find a some blurry gutshots but nothing tracable. :-/
Thanks for your quick reply!! Any ideas on my previous comment re the dwell knob on the ghost echo? I saw on pedalPCB that their version lacked the occilation but someone had altered some values and got it sounding right. Does this layout lack the occilations? Or is it my build? I can’t see anything that stands out as wrong on my build. If that’s just the nature of the circuit, it’s verified with teds mods
I don't think TedS did a mod, just a correction since the layout innitally had a small bug. It now matches the schematic providied by PedalPCB.
While I have not built this myself I don't know how for sure how the Dweall knob should behave there is a guy online decreased 22k resistor that connects to 470nF and Dwell 2 with a 14k resistor. Could be worth a shot.
But I'd rather wait for TedS to chim in to hear how his Dwell control works....
I have ordered the parts for this.... One of the websites selling the PCB states that there is a drop down on the original when it is engaged... And their kit has the parts to fix this... Has anybody noticed a volume drop when engaging this?
Ok...I'm getting worried that I'm being annoying now...🥴🤦🏼♂️
I've been reading about this circuit and it's often suggested that upping the 10k resistor at R5 to 17k will achieve unity gain...I'm having trouble working out where R5 would be on this layout (also every schematic I've found seems to use a single TL074 instead of the twin TL072s....so I may be just barking up the wrong tree anyway...
Sorry for all the silly questions...I just want to give this the best chance possible to be a Keeper.
Here is the schematic this layout is based on. https://www.pedalpcb.com/docs/SpiritBox.pdf It looks like by upping R4 a bit could increase the overall volume...
Brilliant. So I've done some reading...(I was looking at the fuzzdog schematic where R5 gets increased to 17k) And indeed on the pedal PCB schematic, R4 can be upped to get close to unity - I believe people are putting 18k in there. I thought I'd maybe put 15k in seems it seems to be a bit of a compromise.
What happened with this Ian? No luck? For the future, the middle pin on the trimmer is the common and either of the other pins can be omitted depending on which way you want the trim pot to work. Doesn’t really matter. Just think of it as a variable resistor and stick it where the fixed resistor would be. In this case R4. Just make the value a bit bigger for the trimmer so you have something to work with. Set and forget..
Thank you...I'm still waiting on parts..but I'm close! I realized today I've run out of 1nf caps🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️. I just need that and the 2nd voltage regulator and then it's time to put it all together!
I've got so many half finished pedals because of the slow Xmas post!
I'm waiting on transistors for my tremolo, resistors for my fuzz gun, Pots for my hyperpak, A brick for my 3verb
I'm probably going to bite my postman's hand off! 🤣
Oh yeah, I hear you. I need to place an order too but smallbear has been closed. Sick of using cheap electros from Tayda. I have probably four projects that I have almost all the parts for. I’m getting pickier as I go. I don’t want 200 pedals all with slight defects lying around. And I still feel weird about selling my stuff. I might take a shot at the Fuzz Gun myself if I have what I need.
Thanks for the layout! I Put a Ghost Echo and Levitation in one box, here's my build: https://saintlyleftovers.blogspot.com/2023/03/ghost-echo-and-levitation-dual-reverb.html I also put a trim pot in to change the value of the above mentioned resistor. I couldn't get it to work the first time I built it and thought the reverb brick was bad, but when I wired the guitar directly to it I got faint distant echos. So I harvested that board because I couldn't see anything wrong after troubleshooting, rebuilt it, and it worked!
Hello, can someone help me understand what the REG 1 off-board wiring is referring to? I'm not sure what it means or how to execute it practically-speaking. Thanks in advance!
I saw those on the actual diagram, but I was confused why they are also referenced off the board as well. Is that just to make sure you notice they are near those labels on the board itself? Or am I missing something?
It's just to label them so it is easier to reference them while troubleshooting/talking about the layout. Instead of having to say "the uppermost one on the left next to the cap and IC," or the like
I've come to you because mine isn't working. I have the impression that the signal passes through a little but the sound is very strange. I've changed all the components that could have been damaged (semiconductors, voltage regulators, reverb chip). I also checked that all the components were in the right place and that seems to be the case.
This falls under the common debugging steps 1) using good light and high magnification make sure there are no solder bridges between tracks or pads 2) for vero make sure all cuts are made all the way through, verify with a continuity test. 3) for vero make sure you have the double link in the right place 4) verify polarity of all caps and diodes 5) for vero verify location of all legs of all components going one at the time If all of the above are fine (and make sure you spend a good amount of time checking and rechecking) You either have a wrong value or a bad part. 6) verify each and every value 7) replace the IC/transistors and test again
Waiting for BTDR-2 to give a try on this one.
ReplyDeleteNot Verified.
ReplyDeleteSelf Oscillates badly after first reverb. I've verified no bridges, and all bits are where they should be. I need to get a schematic and check the layout.
:-/
DeleteHere is the schematic.
https://www.pedalpcb.com/docs/SpiritBox.pdf
This comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteFound the error (deleted my last comment because of error in comment)
DeleteThe 15K resistor on pin 12 of the PT2399 should not go to row 18. Rather it needs to join the 10K and 15K resistors on row 17 just after the cut on column 11.
I bodged that by soldering directly to the leg of the 10K on column 11 row 17 and now I get good reverb.
specifically the 15K resistor starting row 14 column 9
DeleteIt is now verified folks I wish I could edit that top comment but it works and is really nice
DeletePerhaps move the 100NF cap right next to the 2399 (Pins 11/12) move teh cuts on rows 16,17 column 10 over to column 9, then move the 15K resistor over to column 10 and end it on row 17 with the other 1 resistors.
ReplyDeleteThanks a lot for your work! I'm not at home until tomorrow but I'll definitely go over the schematic again armed with your findings.
DeleteCool. I made that change and it works a treat now. I'm now looking hard at the schematic and pondering adding some extra repeats rather than the fixed one repeat.. but that may get a bit... busy.
DeleteHas this one been changed with the above mentioned corrections?
ReplyDeleteCheers
Ben
Oh, sorry, totally forgot this one! Too many layouts lately....:-S.
DeleteWill take a look in a couple of days.
/
Anders
Great, thanks very much. If you don't mind the cheeky request it'd be nice to see the Wampler faux spring reverb in the verb section.
Deletehttp://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabble.com/Wampler-Faux-Spring-Reverb-td8987.html
DeleteCool, thanks!
DeleteHas this lay-out been updated yet? Really would like to build this one!
ReplyDeleteDoesn't appear so, but the fix is really easy. THe 15K resistor on pin 12 of the PT2399 (column 9) needs to go from Column 9 row N to Column 11 row Q or just attach it to the leg of that 10K resistor (or the 15K next to it.)
DeleteI just boxed mine with that one little bodge and it sounds great.
Layout is updated! As TedS said, it was an easy fix...
DeleteThx guys! Appreciate it!
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeletethe comments seem to indicate that this is verified, has this been confirmed?
ReplyDeleteI've built it with a modified version of what is up there now and it works a treat.
DeleteI’ve built this from the modded version in this thread, sounds really nice but the dwell knob doesn’t seem to do much and it doesn’t occilate anything like in the EQD demos. Are there any further mods to increase occilation?
ReplyDeleteAny chance of a layout for the fuzz master general? I believe it’s a FM2 with clipping switch? Love your work by the way!!!
ReplyDeleteThanks!
DeleteEQD FM General is modified Acetone FM-2 indeed. But I can't find a schematic for it, i.e. it has not been traced yet. Managed to find a some blurry gutshots but nothing tracable. :-/
Thanks for your quick reply!! Any ideas on my previous comment re the dwell knob on the ghost echo? I saw on pedalPCB that their version lacked the occilation but someone had altered some values and got it sounding right. Does this layout lack the occilations? Or is it my build? I can’t see anything that stands out as wrong on my build. If that’s just the nature of the circuit, it’s verified with teds mods
ReplyDeleteI don't think TedS did a mod, just a correction since the layout innitally had a small bug. It now matches the schematic providied by PedalPCB.
DeleteWhile I have not built this myself I don't know how for sure how the Dweall knob should behave there is a guy online decreased 22k resistor that connects to 470nF and Dwell 2 with a 14k resistor. Could be worth a shot.
But I'd rather wait for TedS to chim in to hear how his Dwell control works....
I did no mod.. the dwell is very subtle.. very very subtle.. I don't actually even twiddle with it. Perhaps the orig isn't but mine is....
Deleteso I had a few seconds, I replaced the 22k reported with a 15k and now when dwell and depth are maxed there is some oscillation.
DeleteGood to hear!
DeleteDoes it sound close to online demos?
Almost. 10K or 12K may be better
DeleteI bet the schematic is a V1 or v2 and the other poster was looking at a V3 which was changed for more oscillation
DeleteThanks so much for all your time. You guys are amazing
ReplyDeleteTried with 10k... works great
ReplyDeleteThanks to both of you. Added some notes and tagged it.
ReplyDeleteAlso used 10K for R12, it starts to oscillate at 3'oclock just like the manuals tells. Thanks for the layout it sounds killer!
ReplyDeleteDoes this fit in a 125b???
ReplyDeleteYes, it will but it is a tight fit. You'll get more wiggle room if you mount the board sideways into the enclosure...
DeleteI have ordered the parts for this....
ReplyDeleteOne of the websites selling the PCB states that there is a drop down on the original when it is engaged... And their kit has the parts to fix this...
Has anybody noticed a volume drop when engaging this?
Thank you
many delays/reverbs will have a little drop in perceived volume you can 'fix' that with a little clean boost if it bothers you
DeleteJust populating the board here...(took me four attempts just to get the holes in the right place🤦🏼♂️)
ReplyDeleteI have some green 470nf (100v) capacitors...but they look oddly big...I can make them fit fine, but they just look so big!🤣
Can someone reassure me?🙂
Go for it! Those 470nF greenies will work just fine.
DeleteI use 'em all the time.. they are big, and can be a pain to fit.. but they work just fine
DeleteThank you guys!
ReplyDeleteOk...I'm getting worried that I'm being annoying now...🥴🤦🏼♂️
ReplyDeleteI've been reading about this circuit and it's often suggested that upping the 10k resistor at R5 to 17k will achieve unity gain...I'm having trouble working out where R5 would be on this layout (also every schematic I've found seems to use a single TL074 instead of the twin TL072s....so I may be just barking up the wrong tree anyway...
Sorry for all the silly questions...I just want to give this the best chance possible to be a Keeper.
Ian
(and for what it's worth, I think it may be the one on row 20 h-k but 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
ReplyDeleteHere is the schematic this layout is based on.
Deletehttps://www.pedalpcb.com/docs/SpiritBox.pdf
It looks like by upping R4 a bit could increase the overall volume...
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteBrilliant. So I've done some reading...(I was looking at the fuzzdog schematic where R5 gets increased to 17k)
ReplyDeleteAnd indeed on the pedal PCB schematic, R4 can be upped to get close to unity - I believe people are putting 18k in there.
I thought I'd maybe put 15k in seems it seems to be a bit of a compromise.
All I in need time know is which resistor is R4?
(I've used 12k in place of 22k at R12)
Thank you😊
I still have a hunch it's the one in column 20....🤔🤞
ReplyDeleteYeah that’s right. I looked at the schematic. Maybe stick a 25 or 50k trimmer in there for an internal level adjuster.
ReplyDeleteThank you for looking 😊
ReplyDeleteI can't believe I worked it out!🤓
The trouble with trimmers for me is they have three legs and resistor's have two🤯
I'm gonna hard wire the 15k in there and hope for the best.
Cheers!
Ok....I've done some surgery...15k is in!
ReplyDeleteWhat happened with this Ian? No luck? For the future, the middle pin on the trimmer is the common and either of the other pins can be omitted depending on which way you want the trim pot to work. Doesn’t really matter. Just think of it as a variable resistor and stick it where the fixed resistor would be. In this case R4. Just make the value a bit bigger for the trimmer so you have something to work with. Set and forget..
ReplyDeleteThank you...I'm still waiting on parts..but I'm close! I realized today I've run out of 1nf caps🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️. I just need that and the 2nd voltage regulator and then it's time to put it all together!
DeleteI've got so many half finished pedals because of the slow Xmas post!
I'm waiting on transistors for my tremolo, resistors for my fuzz gun,
Pots for my hyperpak,
A brick for my 3verb
I'm probably going to bite my postman's hand off! 🤣
Oh yeah, I hear you. I need to place an order too but smallbear has been closed. Sick of using cheap electros from Tayda. I have probably four projects that I have almost all the parts for. I’m getting pickier as I go. I don’t want 200 pedals all with slight defects lying around. And I still feel weird about selling my stuff. I might take a shot at the Fuzz Gun myself if I have what I need.
ReplyDeleteLet us know how you get on...👍👍
ReplyDeleteIt works! It seems to be around unity gain and will self oscillate around the 3/4 mark. You can dial out the slap back which is ideal.
ReplyDeleteI'll make a proper video tomorrow...
Here's a short look at the inside...
I've tried to keep it as neat as possible.
Cheers.... 👻👻👻👻
https://youtube.com/shorts/S-TY1qF3Kd4?feature=share
Looks a hell of a lot neater than most of my projects. And I will be making this too.
ReplyDeleteThank you kindly🙏🙏
DeleteHere it is.... It's a wonder I'm not a highly paid YouTube celebrity 😂
ReplyDeletehttps://youtu.be/3x-nSb3NNWI
Thanks for the layout! I Put a Ghost Echo and Levitation in one box, here's my build:
ReplyDeletehttps://saintlyleftovers.blogspot.com/2023/03/ghost-echo-and-levitation-dual-reverb.html
I also put a trim pot in to change the value of the above mentioned resistor. I couldn't get it to work the first time I built it and thought the reverb brick was bad, but when I wired the guitar directly to it I got faint distant echos. So I harvested that board because I couldn't see anything wrong after troubleshooting, rebuilt it, and it worked!
Hello, can someone help me understand what the REG 1 off-board wiring is referring to? I'm not sure what it means or how to execute it practically-speaking. Thanks in advance!
ReplyDeleteSame question goes for the REG 2 one on the top.
DeleteIt isn't offboard wiring, it is noting the L78L05's, the things that look like transistors
DeleteI saw those on the actual diagram, but I was confused why they are also referenced off the board as well. Is that just to make sure you notice they are near those labels on the board itself? Or am I missing something?
DeleteIt's just to label them so it is easier to reference them while troubleshooting/talking about the layout. Instead of having to say "the uppermost one on the left next to the cap and IC," or the like
DeleteHi everyone!
ReplyDeleteI've come to you because mine isn't working. I have the impression that the signal passes through a little but the sound is very strange. I've changed all the components that could have been damaged (semiconductors, voltage regulators, reverb chip). I also checked that all the components were in the right place and that seems to be the case.
Here's a video of my problem :
https://youtube.com/shorts/uzCYNMVMHvs
Thanks in advance for any help you can give :)
This falls under the common debugging steps
ReplyDelete1) using good light and high magnification make sure there are no solder bridges between tracks or pads
2) for vero make sure all cuts are made all the way through, verify with a continuity test.
3) for vero make sure you have the double link in the right place
4) verify polarity of all caps and diodes
5) for vero verify location of all legs of all components going one at the time
If all of the above are fine (and make sure you spend a good amount of time checking and rechecking)
You either have a wrong value or a bad part.
6) verify each and every value
7) replace the IC/transistors and test again