Hey Jordan - sorry to be asking you questions about that post here, but I figure that anyone attempting to build this will benefit. You mentioned that the jacks were TRS but it looks like on the schematic that only the tips + sleeves are connected. Am I seeing that right or are there any connections with the ring lugs? It doesn't seem like there would be, but I thought I would ask anyway - just because it looks like there is a trace running to a ring lug on the PCB in the gutshot.
Good question. All 4 jacks are trs. Ring connects on all 4. Same with tip and sleeve. The reason is so that signal feeds through in bypass AND allows you to use the pedals in the effects loops normally.
So do the ring lugs need to be connected to each other? Sorry, I'm not sure I understand this bit. How does having a ring connection help if you are only using standard TS/mono 1/4" jacks?
No problem. You make a good point, I can't imagine the ring has any significance. What I should have said really was that they are switched jacks. I think that's what's important.
So you are supposed to be able to use whatever effect pedals you have in the loop of this thing while the feedback switch is disengaged, and I guess I'm trying to wrap my head around how that part of it functions.
It works well because of the 4p footswitch. Also you can use the drive function without pedals on in the effects loop and get cool distortion/feedback on its own.
After I posted that last comment, I stared at the footswitch layout for a while and eventually came up with the same conclusion. I am definitely going to have to build this one up soon. Thanks again for drawing up the schematic, seriously.
Thanks for that, also didn't know about the 3dpt, always just followed the same wiring plan without much thought. Seems those school reports were right; must try harder!!
Not sure if this will fix the booster, but I have found a discrepancy between Jordan"s schematic and this drawing.
The 10k resistor that is coming off pin 2 of the IC needs be connected between pins 1 and 3, not 1 and 2 as it is currently shown. Quick fix: swap the vertical column positions of the 220nF cap and the 10k resistor in the upper left corner. So that the resistor is one column to the left, next to the jumper. Then take the lower leg of that resistor down one row so that it is on pin 3 of the 4558 chip.
Hey all - just built this up with minor tweak to the upper left corner of the drawing. It definitely makes all the noises that are in the youtube demo of the original. To anyone attempting this: I had to connect all jack tips and ground all jack sleeves before testing, using my normal testing rig did not work for this one. Also, I eliminated the boost toggle and just wired everything on lugs 1+2 together, and did the same for lugs 4+5. This way the boost is always on (which sounded better to me) and there is one less component to wire offboard.
Damn! Haven't checked back in a while and I discover both the Germanium Filter and Total Sonic Annihilation 2! Awesoooome.. gonna get back to building.
If you click on the link at the top of the drawing and scroll down in the FSB post, there is a link to download Jordan's schematic of his trace. It LOOKS like if you want to leave out the boost+phase switch section, you can just connect lug 2 of the feedback pot to lug 7 of the 4PDT stomp switch. Untested on my part, but that looks like what you should do. If you try it and it is successful, please do report back here as I'm sure there are folks who would like to hear if it works.
Or maybe just jumper lug 4 of the 4PDT to lug 7? Not 100% on any of this, BTW - you should probably give the schematic a look, too. Mostly because the idea is to take the feedback pot out of the mix when the switch is bypassed and I actually not totally convinced that will do it.
oh HELLS yes. And can we please get a big thanks to Jordan Fontaine for the trace over on FSB!!!!
ReplyDeleteCool to see this Fuzzhead. Thanks Chris.
ReplyDeleteHey Jordan - sorry to be asking you questions about that post here, but I figure that anyone attempting to build this will benefit. You mentioned that the jacks were TRS but it looks like on the schematic that only the tips + sleeves are connected. Am I seeing that right or are there any connections with the ring lugs? It doesn't seem like there would be, but I thought I would ask anyway - just because it looks like there is a trace running to a ring lug on the PCB in the gutshot.
DeleteGood question. All 4 jacks are trs. Ring connects on all 4. Same with tip and sleeve. The reason is so that signal feeds through in bypass AND allows you to use the pedals in the effects loops normally.
ReplyDeleteSo do the ring lugs need to be connected to each other? Sorry, I'm not sure I understand this bit. How does having a ring connection help if you are only using standard TS/mono 1/4" jacks?
DeleteNo problem. You make a good point, I can't imagine the ring has any significance. What I should have said really was that they are switched jacks. I think that's what's important.
DeleteSo you are supposed to be able to use whatever effect pedals you have in the loop of this thing while the feedback switch is disengaged, and I guess I'm trying to wrap my head around how that part of it functions.
DeleteIt works well because of the 4p footswitch. Also you can use the drive function without pedals on in the effects loop and get cool distortion/feedback on its own.
ReplyDeleteAfter I posted that last comment, I stared at the footswitch layout for a while and eventually came up with the same conclusion. I am definitely going to have to build this one up soon. Thanks again for drawing up the schematic, seriously.
DeleteHow are the pins numbered on the footswitch? I've probably got other questions but this is the first that comes to mind. Thanks in advance
ReplyDeleteA 4PDt is just a 3PDT with an extra column. Also more expensive, unfortunately, as they are not as commonly used.
Delete1 4 7 10
2 5 8 11
3 6 9 12
If you don't want to use a 4p you could think about adding a millenium bypass.
Deletehttp://www.geofex.com/article_folders/millenium/millen.htm
Thanks for that, also didn't know about the 3dpt, always just followed the same wiring plan without much thought. Seems those school reports were right; must try harder!!
ReplyDeleteThe looper seems to be looping, but the booster doesnt seem to be boosting.
ReplyDeleteNot sure if this will fix the booster, but I have found a discrepancy between Jordan"s schematic and this drawing.
DeleteThe 10k resistor that is coming off pin 2 of the IC needs be connected between pins 1 and 3, not 1 and 2 as it is currently shown. Quick fix: swap the vertical column positions of the 220nF cap and the 10k resistor in the upper left corner. So that the resistor is one column to the left, next to the jumper. Then take the lower leg of that resistor down one row so that it is on pin 3 of the 4558 chip.
That made a world of difference. The whole thing came to life.
DeleteWith the changes mentioned by Chris, I can verify this. Its great.
ReplyDeleteAwesome! True group effort!!! I LOVE IT when a plan comes together!!!
DeleteI love the smell of op amps in the morning!
DeleteAny chance to trace the Tuna Fuzz?
ReplyDeleteThat"s the Beetronics fuzz that just came out, right? Someone's gotta get one and crack it open, maybe post a gutshot somewhere.
DeleteHey all - just built this up with minor tweak to the upper left corner of the drawing. It definitely makes all the noises that are in the youtube demo of the original. To anyone attempting this: I had to connect all jack tips and ground all jack sleeves before testing, using my normal testing rig did not work for this one. Also, I eliminated the boost toggle and just wired everything on lugs 1+2 together, and did the same for lugs 4+5. This way the boost is always on (which sounded better to me) and there is one less component to wire offboard.
ReplyDeleteDamn! Haven't checked back in a while and I discover both the Germanium Filter and Total Sonic Annihilation 2! Awesoooome.. gonna get back to building.
ReplyDeleteDear Mr Fuzzhead, any chance you can add a 29 Pedals Euna layout from PedalPCB to your list please?
ReplyDeleteHi gang! If I'd want to make the V1, would that theoretically only be jacks and the feedback pot?
ReplyDeleteIf you click on the link at the top of the drawing and scroll down in the FSB post, there is a link to download Jordan's schematic of his trace. It LOOKS like if you want to leave out the boost+phase switch section, you can just connect lug 2 of the feedback pot to lug 7 of the 4PDT stomp switch. Untested on my part, but that looks like what you should do. If you try it and it is successful, please do report back here as I'm sure there are folks who would like to hear if it works.
ReplyDeleteOr maybe just jumper lug 4 of the 4PDT to lug 7? Not 100% on any of this, BTW - you should probably give the schematic a look, too. Mostly because the idea is to take the feedback pot out of the mix when the switch is bypassed and I actually not totally convinced that will do it.
Delete