The late EH3054C version of the vintage Deluxe Big Muff. Some improvements had to be done like true bypass and common voltage refrence.
Schematic is avaiable HERE.
The late EH3054C version of the vintage Deluxe Big Muff. Some improvements had to be done like true bypass and common voltage refrence.
Schematic is avaiable HERE.
I got a start on this tonight. I'm counting 72 cuts
ReplyDeleteThanks.
DeleteNotes are updated. I also moved one of the cuts so make sure to use the updated layout.
I'm having footswitch issues. I'm getting no wet or bypass. I assume output jack to lug9? Also there's no free lugs for the jacks ground wires. I also tried wiring it up my usual way and got bypass at least, but couldn't figure out the other four wires coming into the footswitch.
ReplyDeleteI think it should be clearer labelled exactly which lug is which on the switches. Maybe a pic of the switches with lugs numbered. I can't figure which way 1-9 is meant to be for the footswitch.
ReplyDeleteIf someone gets this working in def doing one, wish I could help test and troubleshoot the layout but I'm just too busy at the mo.
Hey Brian!
DeleteFootswitch lug numbering is like this:
1 4 7
2 5 8
3 6 9
I've checked the layout and it looks fine but I'll check again.
Hey Anders, I'd love to take a crack at this one, but I was hoping for a little clarification on the output section of the signal path. Is there a 'direct' out that is routed from the 3pdt bypass switch? Or are the comp & blend jacks the only way out of this effect? Either way, this drawing is pretty massive, so OF COURSE I want to try and verify it!!!
ReplyDeleteHey Chris!
DeleteYou can take lug 5 of the footswitch straight to the Blend jack acts as the output jack. The 150ohm across lug 5 and Blend is quite retundant but that's how it was built so...
The original had buffered bypass which is omitted here so the true bypass signal flows from input jack->Sw2->Sw3->Sw6->Sw5->150ohm resistor/Blend jack.
For the comp jack....I'm not sure...it looks like an "always on" feature.
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ReplyDeleteK, I think I'm understanding the circuit more now (and sorry for loads of comments, won't delete them unfortunately!!!)
ReplyDeleteLayout may be ok actually. Pin powers are ok (I forgot 741 and 3080s have power on 7 not 8) Also my first comment now ; That 4u7 and 100K are omitted here for the true bypass tweaks yes? (and the one I've seen are for the effect out right at the end).
Is the issue down to the common voltage section being scrapped altogether? Looks like it just has a 9v protection diode and power filtering from the 100p and 470u.
Yeah, both the 741 and 3080 is powered at pin 7.
DeleteAnd yes, bingo on the 4,7uF/100k as well, that is the buffered signal path which I subbed for the true bypass signal path.
As for the "Vref mod". After reading a post at FSB I thought it was a useful mod that both simplified the layout quite a bit and appearantly also makes this thing sound much better.
https://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?p=33699#p33699
You simply replace the 1k resistors for the invidual Vref networks with jumpers so the the whole circuit is tied to the same buffered Vref.
Is the rest of the vref meant to stay though (just jumper the 1ks)? It looks like it's been completely removed here?
DeleteYes, the 1ks is jjumpered.
DeleteThe buffered vref source is on the left side of IC4. The voltage divider (22k/22k) is connected to pin 3. The output is coneccted to pin 1 and 2.
What about the other components in that part of the circuit though (the 30us, 820k, 1m and 220n are missing)?
DeleteSo I'm understanding this right, nothing at lug 9 of the footswitch, nothing at lug3 of the dpdt toggle. Blend jack is used for the output jack. I'm getting bypass now and when the circuit is switched on the fuzz volume and tone pots affect the noise. The other pots and switch do nothing.
ReplyDeleteYes, according to the schematic, thats how the the DPDT switch and Blend jack is upposed to be wired. And yes, lug 9 of the footswitch should be empty.
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DeleteSome thoughts.. Tried the compressor output jack? If no signal there the faults within the compressor section.
DeleteCan also try moving the input to AC bottom left (before the 56k). I believe that's the start of the opamp muff section..rule out if that works correctly or not.
The 30uFs cap is for the powelting of the Vref buffer. Any value from 1uf to 100uF will do.
DeleteVref4 is included in the "Vref mod" so the separate 1m/820k voltage divider is omitted.It is not critical at all since they just adds a bit vref assymetry for the recovery stage.
In fact, found another schematic that actually includes the "Vref mod"
https://www.freestompboxes.org/download/file.php?id=217&mode=view
Yes, the input of the fuzz section is before the 56k. You might want to add a cap in series with it as a decoupling cap if you run the signal that route.
DeleteI am as a BMP junkie that likes to build every variant I can. Between this DLX BMP and the Tube feedback Indigo Ranch "Bigger Muff" BMP; I'll be here spectating and experimenting. The Bigger Muff has long been on my bucket-list after 45+ muff variant builds.
ReplyDeleteI may try to build this week, if work calms down. I can't get any reliable LM3080s though, no reliable CA3080 or LM13700s either. Is there another alternative can use?
ReplyDeleteLM13700's are becoming scarce? Damn. I was about to point you to an adapter layout for the lm3080.
ReplyDeleteR i know about the adapter, but the chips out of stock everywhere reliable apart from SMD versions.
DeleteI'm tempted at the mo to just build a soul preacher and opamp muff seperatly and join them in the same case. The solo preacher uses a 4558 and I'd gain things like the soul preachers attack switch, opamps tone bypass and I could dual footswitch it to independently turn them on or series them. Dunno about parallel yet.
Hopefully I can find the time to whip up the earlier EH-3053 version which have a Hogs Foot compressor. However a voltage regulated charge pump must be added on the board since it runs on 5v/-5v.
Deletehttps://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?p=27128#p27128
So I was only getting a whine before. I discovered that if I pull Q2, I now get distorted signal and all knobs and the switch "work." The sound is horrible so somethings definitely not right, but I think that narrows things down to a problem around the transistor portion of the circuit.
ReplyDeleteAlso, the comp jack doesn't pass any dry or wet signal, and I also tried the input direct to AC and there was no change.
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ReplyDeletefew layout changes and verified! All working for me....
ReplyDelete-Needs a wire to join IC3 and IC6 to power (they don't actually go to it). I had to run one across the board with a wire unfortunately, couldn't see a way to do it neat on the layout.
-Needs a cut adding by the 8.2K after sustain (T5) otherwise it's going straight to ground (sustain doesn't work). They'll be definitely 73 cuts then on the layout when that's added rather than the current 72.
Other than that all other parts and locations were fine. I used a 1N5817 instead of a 1N4001 (doubt that changes anything). got no LM3080s so I used a LM13700 (which are also now being discountinued apart from in SMD format!!) and a daughterboard instead.
I also added a tone bypass to mine...If you interested run a wire from K2 to a on-on switch (on pole 3), run tone 2 to pole 1 instead of vol 3, and lastly run pole 2 to volume 3 instead of tone 2. Boom tone bypass....muff has a volume jump and more bottom end (tone pot obviously won't work when it's engaged).
https://www.facebook.com/1825353937693346/posts/3318049995090392/?sfnsn=scwspmo
ReplyDeleteMy build. I've also removed any posts here from earlier so info's not conflicting.
See my reply in this thread please
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ReplyDeleteOh, also... Make it obvious the 470u goes in rows D and E, at first glance it looks like C and F
ReplyDeleteIs it verified? I wanna do it on pcb, are all the vref connected straight from the buffer out omitting R60-61-62-63 from the schematic, right? Thank you
ReplyDeleteUP
DeleteDid you end up building it?
Deletenope, without a reply I prefer don't waste time and components.
DeleteCan finally verify this layout with changes. What is required to make it work is:
ReplyDeleteextra cut at S3....not T5 as suggested by Chris.
IC3 pin8 and IC6 pin7 need to be connected to power... I just ran a hook wire from D14 (V+ IC5) to the link between IC3 pin8 and IC6 pin7... As per Chris's comment.
And 470 cap goes in rows D and E, not C and F... also as per Chris's comments.
I've plugged into 2 separate amps and sounds good! :)
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