Remove the 100n and place it in the middle of an on-off-on dpdt switch.
That would be your stock setting, and then the other two will add to it to allow more bass. I haven't seen verified values yet, but I used another 100n or 220n on one side and a larger electro on the other.
When I built my first one, I didn't have any germanium and substituted with2n3906,2n2907,bc558 just to get it working.
Since then I got a hold of a real FF and built a couple germanium ones. I tried the silicon again and other than sounding a little more abrasive, it wasn't too far off. The noisy sounds were still there with the controls in the same settings.
If cost is an issue, like a pair of Russian MP20 in my favorite clone that sounds just like the real FF.
Hi guys! What do you thinking about diode and filtering (DC) capasitor? Some schematics have this, other no.... With different ways conecting diode. Serial to DC and in other case with cathode on ground and anode to +DC.
I found the scematic with adding Tone (Body) control Pot. So, i'll try to describe this. Pot is B100K. Conecting: C Q1 to 2&3 of Pot and 100nF. Another lug of 100nF to B Q2. 1 of Pot to minus of 10mF, and plus of 10mf to B Q2. Maybe trying to play with 100nF (10nF, or even less). I did the same scematic in Catalinebread Naga Viper Booster. Only with other parametres of caps.
It's polarity protection, not a clipping diode. It won't affect the sound, and may not function correctly. The circuit will work without the diode, you just have to be sure you don't accidentally power it with a reversed polarity.
No they work essentially the same way. I think fuzzhead prefers 5817's because they draw slightly less voltage away from the circuit. I'm sure that it's negligible.
Not speaking about this particular circuit, but more with fuzz face style circuits in general: one of the things that needs to be adjusted depending on the transistor you are using is the resistor that goes from the supply to the collector or emitter (depending if it is NPN or PNP). In this particular circuit, I would say that if you are going to swap Q2 for something else, you may need a different value of pot for the "Stab" control since this is basically the resistor between supply and emitter. You may also need to change the resistor going between the base of Q2 and the emitter of Q3. if you are swapping from Ge to Si, I'm going to say you may need higher values for both the stab pot and that 47k resistor. But this is all just based on my experiences with the H Fuzz and the Germanium Filter. I've not actually built a fuzz factory, so I could be totally wrong?
Use a 10k pot with a 10k resistor connected across the outside lugs, it that will give you 5k? This is what they call “parallel resistance” Cheers๐๐ฝ
Hmm, any idea how to work in the Fat mod?
ReplyDeleteRemove the 100n and place it in the middle of an on-off-on dpdt switch.
DeleteThat would be your stock setting, and then the other two will add to it to allow more bass. I haven't seen verified values yet, but I used another 100n or 220n on one side and a larger electro on the other.
Perfect, Thank you Alex
ReplyDeleteHey man, you can tag it, works great
ReplyDeleteThanks! I'll tag it.
DeleteSecond verification from me.
ReplyDeleteI used a DPDT switch with a 47nf ceramic, a 100nf poly and a 1uf tant capacitor for the fat factory modification.
I had a bit of a "I'm bored, let's try all the resistors I have lying around the place in this circuit" moment
So I think my ears are off, but I found myself really digging the following.
Q1 - 2N5089
Q2 - OC71
Q3 - 2N3906
Oscillates like a crazy thing. But, you get some killer tones out if it.
Thanks again Fuzzhead ๐
Has anybody tried this with PNP silicon transistors?
ReplyDeleteWhen I built my first one, I didn't have any germanium and substituted with2n3906,2n2907,bc558 just to get it working.
DeleteSince then I got a hold of a real FF and built a couple germanium ones. I tried the silicon again and other than sounding a little more abrasive, it wasn't too far off. The noisy sounds were still there with the controls in the same settings.
If cost is an issue, like a pair of Russian MP20 in my favorite clone that sounds just like the real FF.
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHi guys! What do you thinking about diode and filtering (DC) capasitor? Some schematics have this, other no.... With different ways conecting diode. Serial to DC and in other case with cathode on ground and anode to +DC.
ReplyDeleteI found the scematic with adding Tone (Body) control Pot.
ReplyDeleteSo, i'll try to describe this. Pot is B100K. Conecting: C Q1 to 2&3 of Pot and 100nF. Another lug of 100nF to B Q2.
1 of Pot to minus of 10mF, and plus of 10mf to B Q2.
Maybe trying to play with 100nF (10nF, or even less).
I did the same scematic in Catalinebread Naga Viper Booster. Only with other parametres of caps.
Helo! i've been thinking of replace the diode from this schematic to an 1N34A germanium diode... Is it possible?
ReplyDeleteIt's polarity protection, not a clipping diode. It won't affect the sound, and may not function correctly. The circuit will work without the diode, you just have to be sure you don't accidentally power it with a reversed polarity.
DeleteIf 1n4001 was used, would it need to be opposite to the diagram orientation?
ReplyDeleteNo they work essentially the same way. I think fuzzhead prefers 5817's because they draw slightly less voltage away from the circuit. I'm sure that it's negligible.
ReplyDeleteWhen I have seen the 4001 used in some layouts the 9 volt generally goes in in the end with the band?
ReplyDeleteIthink you are refering to parallel diode "protection", a diode across v+ and Ground?
DeleteWould that be what's on the shoe pixel where the 9v goes to the striped end first?
DeleteOk this works just as well as my old kit version (but the wiring is tidier! I used an ASY70 and an OC304.
ReplyDeleteBeautiful. Thank you Anders!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/hvJCWCTztLM5BS899
ReplyDeletehttps://youtu.be/Lk0Tk0Jdrjk
ReplyDeleteHere it is
Does anybody know if the silicon fuzz factory has been traced?
ReplyDeleteJust use this layout Ian and replace with PNP silicon transistors. I've used BC558s in the past, hfe is around 400
DeleteI tried this on a socketed fuzz factory I made, and it didn't sound good. I was wondering if there was additional changes to the circuit
DeleteI think the Chaos Agent is meant to be the silicon version. Does it not function similarly?
DeleteNot speaking about this particular circuit, but more with fuzz face style circuits in general: one of the things that needs to be adjusted depending on the transistor you are using is the resistor that goes from the supply to the collector or emitter (depending if it is NPN or PNP). In this particular circuit, I would say that if you are going to swap Q2 for something else, you may need a different value of pot for the "Stab" control since this is basically the resistor between supply and emitter. You may also need to change the resistor going between the base of Q2 and the emitter of Q3. if you are swapping from Ge to Si, I'm going to say you may need higher values for both the stab pot and that 47k resistor. But this is all just based on my experiences with the H Fuzz and the Germanium Filter. I've not actually built a fuzz factory, so I could be totally wrong?
DeleteI don't have 5k pots, can I use other values (I have 10k, 20k, 50k, 100k, 250k, 500k, 1m) or do I have to order 5k? Impatient much? XD
ReplyDeleteYou could try 10K
DeleteAnyways, great layout, great pedal and heaps of fun.
ReplyDeleteUse a 10k pot with a 10k resistor connected across the outside lugs, it that will give you 5k? This is what they call “parallel resistance” Cheers๐๐ฝ
ReplyDeleteThank you. This is what i ended up doing
Delete