Damn it, I was trying.... on the bench now but glad to know its verified. Thank you for all these Dunwich layouts. Im a BIG fan of Dunwich. They care about Bass players.
I wanted to audition the sounds before I got my switch so I just connected a wire from "Switch A" to gain pot #3. That gives you the bassiest setting, and then you can try other smaller caps in between.
Anyone get this going with anything other than 2N5458 in Q2/3? I've tried with some usual suspects and something sounds off and the gain isn't great. I've checked everything pretty close, so I'm thinking my JFets aren't cutting it which is what my probe is telling me too.
I got it fired up with MPF102.. It's just a Mu amp so I'm kind of thinking a lot of stuff should work maybe? My signal went to shit there because I has a 100k emitter resistor on Q6 instead of 100 ohm oops .
Got mine fired up right off the bat, but also experiencing gain issues. Only getting signal at 75-100% on the gain, but sounds good as all get out even at low gain.
Gonna sub the 2n5458’s with some j201’s or 2n5457’s and see if improves.
got mine 100% with some J201's in the Q2 and Q3 position, loving this pedal. Really good bridge and neck pickup balance for a primary fuzz tone. This one is definitely staying on my board
Hi, I just built it and it's absolutely amazing, but I have some problems with the 2p12t switch, in position 1 it sounds really good but from 2-3-4-5 it sounds quieter, and with very little depth, then it recovers in the following positions, and in position 10 it doesn't sound at all.
Yeah! Yes, forgive me, I was referring to 1P12T. I realized I had soldered a capacitor in the wrong place, and now everything seems to sound correct, although it is true that some positions sound with a bit more background noise. I don't know if it's because of the distance between the cables or the capacitors used. What type of capacitors do you recommend for this project?
It generally sounds pretty monstrous (in a good way) and I would like to make some PCBs in the future to experiment since where I live, I can't buy them from the US
I'm somewhat of an electronics noob, but I tend to go with logic and use what the original builder used: film capacitors, except for some ceramic ones for certain values in the picofarad range. Go see the original FSB thread linked at the top, you'll see gut shots and be able to figure it out. That's what I did, with no prior experience in pedal building. Took me about 11 hours to source everything on Mouser and two other places! But I also had to get the correct components sizes, as on a PCB, there are stricter space restrictions.
Go back and check all of your solder connections first. Also, you want to keep the wires between the board short as possible with rotary switches. Ceramic caps can be noisy, but if you’re looking to up your game from the standard Mylar Polyester caps, then order some Polyester Film Box type caps, they cost more but are well worth it?
Also, twisting wires between pots and the board, and between the rotary switch board and main board will help with noise. I wish we could post images here; the original Dunwich has all of those wires twisted.
Ok so, to anybody who would want to build this from the PCB project on OSH park located here:
[url]https://oshpark.com/profiles/V1nce69[/url]
Do [b][u]NOT[/u][/b] purchase 1590BB enclosures as stated in the notes!! It's completely wrong! The original enclosure is a 1590DD!!! I didn't verify anything (my bad) and just bought 3 enclosures based on this note only to find out they're as wide as the PCB is, if you factor in enclosure wall thickness. With off-board pots, the 12 position PCB and a 3PDT switch it's impossible to fit it in a BB. Even the new layout from Magic Pedals, which has on-board pots, requires an enclosure bigger than this, most likely the 1590XX.
Here are the boards dropped inside an Abominable Electronics Hail Satan Deluxe for size comparison. It uses a 1590XX. Would be doable, but still a bit tight with off-board pots. PCB would have to be raised to prevent contact with 2 pots that would have to go underneath main PCB.
Now verified! Heavy fuzz in spades.
ReplyDeleteDamn it, I was trying.... on the bench now but glad to know its verified. Thank you for all these Dunwich layouts. Im a BIG fan of Dunwich. They care about Bass players.
ReplyDeleteLove dunwich, Always wanted to buy this pedal but never did.
ReplyDeleteAnyway - is really all the rotary switches necesarry? For you guys that have built it.
Or would anyone suggest to drop it down to 6?
I wanted to audition the sounds before I got my switch so I just connected a wire from "Switch A" to gain pot #3. That gives you the bassiest setting, and then you can try other smaller caps in between.
DeleteI would stay with the 1p12t rotary as shown. It’s a great sounding circuit.
ReplyDeleteAnyone get this going with anything other than 2N5458 in Q2/3? I've tried with some usual suspects and something sounds off and the gain isn't great. I've checked everything pretty close, so I'm thinking my JFets aren't cutting it which is what my probe is telling me too.
ReplyDeleteHello, i try with 2N5457 and J201, i don't have gain's problem but it squeal a lot compare to 2N5458.
DeleteI got it fired up with MPF102.. It's just a Mu amp so I'm kind of thinking a lot of stuff should work maybe? My signal went to shit there because I has a 100k emitter resistor on Q6 instead of 100 ohm oops .
DeleteGot mine fired up right off the bat, but also experiencing gain issues. Only getting signal at 75-100% on the gain, but sounds good as all get out even at low gain.
ReplyDeleteGonna sub the 2n5458’s with some j201’s or 2n5457’s and see if improves.
got mine 100% with some J201's in the Q2 and Q3 position, loving this pedal. Really good bridge and neck pickup balance for a primary fuzz tone. This one is definitely staying on my board
DeleteThere are 42 cuts in total, right?
ReplyDeleteHi, I just built it and it's absolutely amazing, but I have some problems with the 2p12t switch, in position 1 it sounds really good but from 2-3-4-5 it sounds quieter, and with very little depth, then it recovers in the following positions, and in position 10 it doesn't sound at all.
ReplyDeleteFunny you're asking as I'm about to attempt this project myself! Well not exactly per se, as I bought Vince69's PCBs on OSH Park instead.
DeleteAre you sure you meant 2P12T? Because it's a 1P12T switch that goes in there.
Yep, defo need a 1P12T. 2P12T won't work correctly
DeleteYeah! Yes, forgive me, I was referring to 1P12T. I realized I had soldered a capacitor in the wrong place, and now everything seems to sound correct, although it is true that some positions sound with a bit more background noise. I don't know if it's because of the distance between the cables or the capacitors used. What type of capacitors do you recommend for this project?
DeleteIt generally sounds pretty monstrous (in a good way) and I would like to make some PCBs in the future to experiment since where I live, I can't buy them from the US
DeleteI'm somewhat of an electronics noob, but I tend to go with logic and use what the original builder used: film capacitors, except for some ceramic ones for certain values in the picofarad range. Go see the original FSB thread linked at the top, you'll see gut shots and be able to figure it out. That's what I did, with no prior experience in pedal building. Took me about 11 hours to source everything on Mouser and two other places! But I also had to get the correct components sizes, as on a PCB, there are stricter space restrictions.
DeleteGo back and check all of your solder connections first. Also, you want to keep the wires between the board short as possible with rotary switches. Ceramic caps can be noisy, but if you’re looking to up your game from the standard Mylar Polyester caps, then order some Polyester Film Box type caps, they cost more but are well worth it?
DeleteAlso, twisting wires between pots and the board, and between the rotary switch board and main board will help with noise. I wish we could post images here; the original Dunwich has all of those wires twisted.
DeleteOk so, to anybody who would want to build this from the PCB project on OSH park located here:
ReplyDelete[url]https://oshpark.com/profiles/V1nce69[/url]
Do [b][u]NOT[/u][/b] purchase 1590BB enclosures as stated in the notes!! It's completely wrong! The original enclosure is a 1590DD!!! I didn't verify anything (my bad) and just bought 3 enclosures based on this note only to find out they're as wide as the PCB is, if you factor in enclosure wall thickness. With off-board pots, the 12 position PCB and a 3PDT switch it's impossible to fit it in a BB. Even the new layout from Magic Pedals, which has on-board pots, requires an enclosure bigger than this, most likely the 1590XX.
[url]https://static.wixstatic.com/media/019cfd_4386ac9441d2454f85d2d6080b970cc2~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_480,h_480,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_avif,quality_auto/019cfd_4386ac9441d2454f85d2d6080b970cc2~mv2.png[/url]
Here are the boards dropped inside an Abominable Electronics Hail Satan Deluxe for size comparison. It uses a 1590XX. Would be doable, but still a bit tight with off-board pots. PCB would have to be raised to prevent contact with 2 pots that would have to go underneath main PCB.
[url=https://tinypic.host/image/1000011662.3UUDi4][img]https://tinypic.host/images/2025/05/09/1000011662.jpg[/img][/url]
And the boards on top of a 1590BB for comparison.
[url=https://tinypic.host/image/1000011663.3UUiHw][img]https://tinypic.host/images/2025/05/09/1000011663.jpg[/img][/url]