Based on the thread on DIYstompboxes, It looks like the Cuvave Fuzz is almost a direct clone of this circuit. "The only thing they did different is change the "Pinch" knob into 2 resistors"... https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=126825.0
Just a little research I found for anyone interested.
Second tedious question of the day! I really like this pedal and want to build another one... I use it for guitar. Would changing one of the input caps allow more treble through?
The 10nF cap in the bottom left corner is bleeding treble to ground. Decreasing or removing it will increase the treble response, but also make the distortion harsher.
This might be too much, but you could actually connect the end that goes to ground to the second lug of a pot, and then the first lug to ground. As you go to the left, the resistance decreases and it loses treble, going to the right increases resistance and causes less treble to be loss.
Ok, made this with a 22nf input cap. Why isn't this a thing? All that great ripping fuzz but the mids don't get swallowed by the bass notes. The skinny mammoth?
At the risk of sounding ignorant, what does cut mean? I assume it means I cut away the copper trace to put a break in the connection, but I don't want to just make that assumption.
I just noticed that one of the resistor values is 4k99, I don't have any of these handy, could I use a 5k1 instead, which I do have or just wait until I'm batch ordering a few more parts?
Hey there - I just built this exact circuit recently and can verify that it works. So let's see if we can address what may be wrong with your build. 1) the first thing to check is, of course, did you place all the cuts, links, and components properly? I will sometimes stare at a problem build for a long time before I will notice a jumper, resistor, or capacitor going to the wrong row. Also - a it helps to have a magnifying glass to examine the underside of the board to make sure there are no tiny solder bridges or flecks of copper strip causing a problem. 2) the wiring of the EQ and Output pots here may be a little confusing - make sure that you have the middle lug of the EQ potentiometer wired to the third lug of the Output pot and that you are getting your signal output from the middle lug of the Output pot. 3) It sounds like you all ready wired up a stomp switch and LED before verifying that your build worked. Something you might want to look into is building a breakout/tester box. This is basically a 3pdt stomp switch and 9V jack that have alligator clips for +9V, ground, input (send), and output (return). By using one of these tester boxes, you can get the circuit board built up with just these four wires and test it before you go any further. If you look up the Unholy Audio channel on youtube, they have an instructional video on building a tester box. Good luck!
Hello, I have done the test and in fact there was a badly installed electrolytic capacitor, I have solved it but it still does not work... I think I will start again..How many volts do you recommend for electroitic capacitors?
Sorry to hear you are still having problems with this. Sometimes starting over is necessary. I have done this many times with problem builds and have had great success. As far as voltage ratings - a lot of builders like to go the bare minimum when building 9 volt powered circuits and use capacitors that are rated to 16 volts. However - I like to go no lower than 35 volts minimum because I often build circuits with voltage doublers that go up to 18v.
Short answer: the rule seems to be that you should at least have your caps rated to close to twice your supply voltage.
I agree 100% with Chris about the voltage rating. Another thing to add to the check list when troubleshooting a circuit is check your potentiometers. You will need to completely disconnect them to be able to check the resistance with a meter but I have had faulty pots cause me a lot of problems and tail chasing in the past. Brand new parts can be bad. I have also had problems with the copper lifting off the stripboard when using the cheap stripboard off Amazon. Not often but it has happened. If it’s going to be something weird and completely off the wall that goes wrong then it’s gonna happen to me. Matt
Based on the thread on DIYstompboxes, It looks like the Cuvave Fuzz is almost a direct clone of this circuit. "The only thing they did different is change the "Pinch" knob into 2 resistors"... https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=126825.0
ReplyDeleteJust a little research I found for anyone interested.
That is interesting!!
DeleteJust built this and it's perfect. Thank you.☺️
ReplyDeletehttps://youtu.be/aTs-GgqORs8
ReplyDeleteThank you again. ☺️❤️
Second tedious question of the day!
ReplyDeleteI really like this pedal and want to build another one... I use it for guitar. Would changing one of the input caps allow more treble through?
Thank you 🙏☺️
The 10nF cap in the bottom left corner is bleeding treble to ground. Decreasing or removing it will increase the treble response, but also make the distortion harsher.
DeleteThank you Michael. Maybe I'll socket and experiment...or just pop 5nf in...🤔
DeleteThis might be too much, but you could actually connect the end that goes to ground to the second lug of a pot, and then the first lug to ground. As you go to the left, the resistance decreases and it loses treble, going to the right increases resistance and causes less treble to be loss.
ReplyDeleteClever!!!! Thank you again
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteI'm still wondering if there'd be much difference in using lower value caps instead of of 220s...🤔
ReplyDeleteI bet you will get less bass if you lower the 220nF cap at column 9 (thats the input cap). Try values between 22nF and 47nF.
DeleteYou are an absolute legend!
ReplyDeleteOk, made this with a 22nf input cap. Why isn't this a thing? All that great ripping fuzz but the mids don't get swallowed by the bass notes. The skinny mammoth?
ReplyDeleteBeautiful! Thank you!
At the risk of sounding ignorant, what does cut mean? I assume it means I cut away the copper trace to put a break in the connection, but I don't want to just make that assumption.
ReplyDeleteThat's right. I twirl a small drill bit in the hole to cut the strip.
DeleteI've just finished another one of these with a 100nf input cap and love it!
https://youtu.be/4qZV4JSX7A4
Cheers mate, everyday's a school day!
DeleteNice demo by the way, loved the sound out of it!
Always happy to offer my limited knowledge!
DeleteI just noticed that one of the resistor values is 4k99, I don't have any of these handy, could I use a 5k1 instead, which I do have or just wait until I'm batch ordering a few more parts?
ReplyDeleteHi, i'm new in this things, i dont understand the position of wool 1&2 and pinch 2&3 in the circuit to the potentiometers
ReplyDeleteIt means that lugs 1 and 2 of your "wool" pot and lugs 2 and 3 of the "pinch" pot would be soldered together and connect to that place on the board.
DeleteHello, I just built it and the pedal just makes a constant noise, the LED lights up but the effect doesn't sound.
ReplyDeleteHey there - I just built this exact circuit recently and can verify that it works. So let's see if we can address what may be wrong with your build.
Delete1) the first thing to check is, of course, did you place all the cuts, links, and components properly? I will sometimes stare at a problem build for a long time before I will notice a jumper, resistor, or capacitor going to the wrong row. Also - a it helps to have a magnifying glass to examine the underside of the board to make sure there are no tiny solder bridges or flecks of copper strip causing a problem.
2) the wiring of the EQ and Output pots here may be a little confusing - make sure that you have the middle lug of the EQ potentiometer wired to the third lug of the Output pot and that you are getting your signal output from the middle lug of the Output pot.
3) It sounds like you all ready wired up a stomp switch and LED before verifying that your build worked. Something you might want to look into is building a breakout/tester box. This is basically a 3pdt stomp switch and 9V jack that have alligator clips for +9V, ground, input (send), and output (return). By using one of these tester boxes, you can get the circuit board built up with just these four wires and test it before you go any further. If you look up the Unholy Audio channel on youtube, they have an instructional video on building a tester box. Good luck!
Hello, I have done the test and in fact there was a badly installed electrolytic capacitor, I have solved it but it still does not work... I think I will start again..How many volts do you recommend for electroitic capacitors?
DeleteSorry to hear you are still having problems with this. Sometimes starting over is necessary. I have done this many times with problem builds and have had great success. As far as voltage ratings - a lot of builders like to go the bare minimum when building 9 volt powered circuits and use capacitors that are rated to 16 volts. However - I like to go no lower than 35 volts minimum because I often build circuits with voltage doublers that go up to 18v.
DeleteShort answer: the rule seems to be that you should at least have your caps rated to close to twice your supply voltage.
I agree 100% with Chris about the voltage rating. Another thing to add to the check list when troubleshooting a circuit is check your potentiometers. You will need to completely disconnect them to be able to check the resistance with a meter but I have had faulty pots cause me a lot of problems and tail chasing in the past. Brand new parts can be bad.
ReplyDeleteI have also had problems with the copper lifting off the stripboard when using the cheap stripboard off Amazon. Not often but it has happened.
If it’s going to be something weird and completely off the wall that goes wrong then it’s gonna happen to me.
Matt