Tuesday, 9 July 2019

Electro Harmonix V2 Ram's Head Big Muff 1973 Violet #1


13 comments:

  1. I have built a muff based on this one. Question. How would you go about doing a tone bypass. No boost or cut or anything like that , just bypass?

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    1. Check this one out. EH actually had a tone bypass version in some V3 muffs. https://dirtboxlayouts.blogspot.com/2019/06/electro-harmonix-v3-big-muff-tone.html

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  2. The muff I am referring to is the Sanford sonny blue beard. It’s based on the Rams head. It’s labeled like the lay out above with switch 2 . The original author failed to note where the rest of the switch goes. I see a lot of muff layouts with switch 2 from the effect and then switch 1 to tone 3. What does this do? I know the Bluebeard uses a spst switch. I have wired it like above but it doesn’t take the tone control completely out. It does boost the signal and there is little to no effect on the tone pot when you turn it when the switch is engaged. Does that sound like it’s working properly?

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    1. The switch in the layout in this post later mid frequencies in the tonestack. With switch bypassed, you have stock 4nF in circuit which gives yuo that traditional big muff scoop tone. With the switch on (6,8nF in circuit which runs parallel with 4nF cap) gives you nearly flat eq curve with more mids present.
      If you want a straight tone bypass I have to refer to the V3 layout I linked to since there is no easy to incorporate it into the layout above but it works like this.
      Signal goes from the last clipping stage into lug 2 of a DPDT switch. Lug 1 it goes to the begining of the tonestack, usually a33k/3,9nF junction. Signal is then splitted into a high pass and low pass filter which is joined in the tone control. Tone 2 goes to bypass switch 4.
      For the bypass signal which you want independent and unaffected by the tonestack runs on the other side of the DPDT switch, between lug 3 and 6. To compensate the volume loss and for an even output level between the tonestack signal and bypass signal we need a fairly big signal limiting reesistor. 150k works fine, 120 works if you want a boost in bypass mode. 150k resistor is simply soldered between lug 3 and 6.
      Lug 5 is connected to the recovery stage(Q4) through a decuopling cap at the base.

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    2. Thank you for taking the time to give a noobie like me a detailed explanation. This will definitely help me in my quest for knowledge.

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  4. Built this today. What a sound! Amazing

    https://youtu.be/YzjijJLakkk

    Thank you!

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  5. Sticking to the BM tip. I converted a ‘76 Ram’s head I wasn’t satisfied with over to these specifications. I love it. Much leakier and more gravely. Oh yeah, the transistor pinouts above are backwards. Thanks Anders.

    Also, I would love a section, even a blank post, where everyone lists some of their favorite builds. Just an idea. Thanks again.

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  6. Oh sorry not backwards. Thought it suggested 5088’s. My bad. 88’s sound good. Thanks for the recommendation Ian.

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  7. I thought I would link this video... I wanted to try making one of these with low hfe transistors. I used bc337's that were around 200 hfe.
    Interestingly I think this is the best sounding bigmuff I have made, and the sustain is incredible.

    https://youtu.be/ViTfSOZzgeg

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  8. Trying to find a violet muff with mids control like the Stomp Under Foot Violet Menace. I thought there was one listed but I'm struggling to find it. Am I just missing it?

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    1. Adding a "mids" control to a standard Big Muff tone control is easy! That 33k stretched from Tone 3 to volume 1 needs to be changed to a smaller value - anything from 3k3 to 4k7 is fine. Now, instead of stretching it all the way down to volume 1, just place it from h17 to k17 and add a cut at k15. K19 connects to lug 3 of a B25k pot, then lugs 2 and 1 link together and connect to ground. I add this mod to every big muff style circuit I make now, it makes the tone control much more useful!

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    2. Awesome! Thanks very much for that 👍.

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