Hey everyone, I finished wiring it last night... Today when I woke up I plugged it in and voila... The magic of germanium happened! The effect works, but I need to check a few things in the center section of the on/off/on switches. Also, I didn't adjust the trims properly because I had visitors and couldn't do anything but plug it in... Later I'll take a closer look and give more details, but it's working 90% of the time. See you later and THANKS for your great work, Fuzzhead!
Hi, after thinking about it a bit, I noticed that there's a missing cut at F17 to isolate C5. For the 4.7uF capacitor, use a polarized connection with negative to the emitter of Q3. Switch XF2 should be connected to FB, reverse the order xf2 where xf1 .
Hi, I'm still working on this. Looking at the schematic again, I noticed that drift switch 4 should be connected four rows down, specifically Q22. I'm going to replace the filter switch to see if it's faulty because I can't figure out why there's no sound in the center position. The filters work fine at the ends and sound pretty good. I followed the instructions in the document for selecting the transistors...
Hey everyone, I'm still struggling with this. With the changes mentioned, everything works except the central part of the filter selector, and I can't figure out why. It's connected correctly. Any help would be great; that's all we need to do to check it out. ;)
I've been racking my brain and I can't figure it out. Looking at the filter area in the diagram, it's DPDT on.off.on. The way it's connected, does the circuit break in the center position?
Hi, did you managed the filter switch somehow? It looks like nothing connects to Filter sw 3 pin I guess thats why there is no sound in central position... But I dont understand what must go there...
Hello, finally someone interested in this, hehe... I'm having the same problem, there's no connection on the center pin, and I've followed the diagram and I think it's wired according to the diagram. I don't understand, that's why I was asking for some more help with this. Everything works (with the corrections mentioned above).
I've followed the clues in the photos of the board and they're arranged like this. I don't know if I'm missing something. Could it be the diode going to Q2? The compilation document mentions it...
Only the meso component is missing and it's verified. I removed the diode and will do some tests when I have time, and if anything changes I'll report it ;)
Oh man U are a HERO!!! Thank you for your advices! I wish you patience and wisdom and a lot of sun lines!) Hope to hear you soon, Thank you again! I am just learning and dont know how to check the diagrams, but I am following your instructions! Hugs!
Man, I'm a newbie too. What I understand is that in the center position it raises the filter. I'm still figuring it out... sometimes, haha. Cheers, mate.
Hi, i can give you my two cents on this circuit - its the one that actually made me want to "upgrade" from diy kits to vero xD. I havent built the sputnik iib, but i made several attempts at the sputnik ii layout from tagboard. My builds always get crazy oscillation with drift mode - it starts around 10 or 20% of the drift pot (scan i think), and gets worse with the gain pot (calibrate? I dont remember the names ahaha).
I dont think this is a feature of the originals (at least from the demos, drift has a more usable range), but other builders report similar results, and i never found a solution for it. In the end i boxed it anyway, it is still a very nice germanium fuzz, with some usable drift crazyness, but i was never 100% pleased with it.
The Sputnik is supposed to self-oscillate. I built the Sputnik I a few years ago. I've grown a little tired of that kind of thing over the years. I honestly think that the Fuzz Factory does it the best, in the end.
Oh Guys thank you for your input! Glad to know that I am not alone here!)
WTF, eah anyway it is nice pedal!) but eah in my case 20-30 percent of scan /calibrate/range in drift mode and goodbye)) sometimes I could go 80% in calibrate/range but with 10-20% scan in drift mode, depends on reverse or not diod... So it never behave as original pedal( but still a nice effect pedal anyway)
I wasn't being smug and judgemental BTW. The Sputniks are all cool. But if you don't care for the beeboop Atari sounds and want a three transistor fuzz, you can't go wrong with a classic Tone Bender. I recently built one on turret board and stuck it in a wedge box I had from years ago. If you want a good and simple silicon one try the Mictester on Tagboardeffects or the Scarab Deluxe.
People! This is AMAZING FUZZ so many great sounds! I dont know why, but it performed way better and stable after I boxed it. It very much reacts on guitar settings (tone and volume) must be direct connected from pickup. And eah I dont think that it behave the same as original, but definitely amazing!
With JJJ's adjustments everything works except filter "C" middle position. And in drift mode it oscilates much faster and crazy then original (I used proper germaniums with proper hfe and bias adjustments...) Maybe because of my ge diod (d9j) but I used very close to recommended specs diod... Maybe there is something wrong with "Scan" pot because it directly infect on oscillation and even very tiny adjustments infect a lot but after 40% scan - goodbye, hello total crazy oscillation...
Hi Cyberstrannik, I'm glad the corrections worked for you. Regarding the drift switch, if you check the diagram, you'll see that drift switch 4 goes to the collector of Q3, connected to 470k, 330nF, and 1k on Q22. I've been tinkering a bit, trying different diodes for D3, and the drift coupling depends a lot on this diode. I also tried different diodes for D1, including two in parallel, which significantly reduces the oscillation, giving more leeway before it starts oscillating. These diodes greatly affect the drift, reducing it to almost half before it goes haywire, but it's very interactive with the other controls, as you mentioned. It sounds great, although I haven't been able to solve the filter issue. I don't understand why it's connected the way fuzzhead put it in the schematic. Anyway, I'll figure it out, and maybe someday someone will discover the problem. But for what I want it for, it works very well: noise, synths, and a bit of chaos. Hehehe, a big hug everyone and thank you so much for giving us the opportunity to be self-taught in many cases and to share this passion, thank you so much!
Man, you Rock! I also found a lot of great sounds with filter in central C position, and stacking DBA Evil filter after, adding a big amount of resonances and then in Short delay... I got amazing sounds, smt empty, metal, fuzzy very beautiful...
I'm glad, man. You're saying the filter works in the center? How did you manage it? What did you do? Your comment made me think of adding something in that section, like putting a circuit from 36 nF, where it's disconnected, down to 12 nF. Is that what you did?
1- extra cut on F - 17 2- 4.7nf Cap must be changed on 4.7nf Polarised Cap (with minus (-) directed to E (emiter) of Q3 3 - XF Bypass Sw 1 a XF Bypass Sw 2 change each other 4 - Drift Sw 4 goes 4 rows down on Q - 22
Hey everyone, I finished wiring it last night... Today when I woke up I plugged it in and voila... The magic of germanium happened! The effect works, but I need to check a few things in the center section of the on/off/on switches. Also, I didn't adjust the trims properly because I had visitors and couldn't do anything but plug it in... Later I'll take a closer look and give more details, but it's working 90% of the time. See you later and THANKS for your great work, Fuzzhead!
ReplyDeleteSorry if there are any typos in the message, I use Google Translate.
ReplyDeleteHi, after thinking about it a bit, I noticed that there's a missing cut at F17 to isolate C5. For the 4.7uF capacitor, use a polarized connection with negative to the emitter of Q3. Switch XF2 should be connected to FB,
ReplyDeletereverse the order xf2 where xf1 .
I'm having problems with the filter in the center position; it's not working. I'll keep looking. See you later.
ReplyDeleteHi, I'm still working on this. Looking at the schematic again, I noticed that drift switch 4 should be connected four rows down, specifically Q22. I'm going to replace the filter switch to see if it's faulty because I can't figure out why there's no sound in the center position. The filters work fine at the ends and sound pretty good. I followed the instructions in the document for selecting the transistors...
ReplyDeleteI'll take a break now and finish the Mystery Box with Fasel. Thanks for your great work :)
ReplyDelete
ReplyDeleteHey everyone, I'm still struggling with this. With the changes mentioned, everything works except the central part of the filter selector, and I can't figure out why. It's connected correctly. Any help would be great; that's all we need to do to check it out. ;)
Nobody here?
ReplyDeleteI’m here! Not going to build just yet. This one has me interested. Anymore not many do!
DeleteHope he also release schematic for the new Atlas booster!
ReplyDeleteI've been racking my brain and I can't figure it out. Looking at the filter area in the diagram, it's DPDT on.off.on. The way it's connected, does the circuit break in the center position?
ReplyDelete
ReplyDeleteCould an electronics expert please take a look at the schematic?... Help! This is all that's left to verify.
Hi, did you managed the filter switch somehow? It looks like nothing connects to Filter sw 3 pin I guess thats why there is no sound in central position... But I dont understand what must go there...
DeleteHello, finally someone interested in this, hehe... I'm having the same problem, there's no connection on the center pin, and I've followed the diagram and I think it's wired according to the diagram. I don't understand, that's why I was asking for some more help with this. Everything works (with the corrections mentioned above).
DeleteI'm using Google Translate, I mention this in case there are any errors in the translation;)
DeleteI've followed the clues in the photos of the board and they're arranged like this. I don't know if I'm missing something. Could it be the diode going to Q2? The compilation document mentions it...
DeleteOnly the meso component is missing and it's verified. I removed the diode and will do some tests when I have time, and if anything changes I'll report it ;)
DeleteOh man U are a HERO!!! Thank you for your advices! I wish you patience and wisdom and a lot of sun lines!) Hope to hear you soon, Thank you again! I am just learning and dont know how to check the diagrams, but I am following your instructions! Hugs!
DeleteMan, I'm a newbie too. What I understand is that in the center position it raises the filter. I'm still figuring it out... sometimes, haha. Cheers, mate.
DeleteCiao! JJJ, How are you? Maybe you have some advices for me?
DeleteIn my case -
1st - Drift Sw 4 also works on M22 (original place)
2d - My pedal oscilates as fuck in Drift mode!)
How does your pedal behave?)
Hi, i can give you my two cents on this circuit - its the one that actually made me want to "upgrade" from diy kits to vero xD. I havent built the sputnik iib, but i made several attempts at the sputnik ii layout from tagboard.
DeleteMy builds always get crazy oscillation with drift mode - it starts around 10 or 20% of the drift pot (scan i think), and gets worse with the gain pot (calibrate? I dont remember the names ahaha).
I dont think this is a feature of the originals (at least from the demos, drift has a more usable range), but other builders report similar results, and i never found a solution for it. In the end i boxed it anyway, it is still a very nice germanium fuzz, with some usable drift crazyness, but i was never 100% pleased with it.
Good luck on your sputnik quest :)
The Sputnik is supposed to self-oscillate. I built the Sputnik I a few years ago. I've grown a little tired of that kind of thing over the years. I honestly think that the Fuzz Factory does it the best, in the end.
DeleteOh Guys thank you for your input! Glad to know that I am not alone here!)
DeleteWTF, eah anyway it is nice pedal!) but eah in my case 20-30 percent of scan /calibrate/range in drift mode and goodbye)) sometimes I could go 80% in calibrate/range but with 10-20% scan in drift mode, depends on reverse or not diod...
So it never behave as original pedal( but still a nice effect pedal anyway)
Thanks Tom I will give it a try, but Sputnik is quite gentle one I thought before building it but also versatile... Maybe you can recommend smth else?
DeleteI wasn't being smug and judgemental BTW. The Sputniks are all cool. But if you don't care for the beeboop Atari sounds and want a three transistor fuzz, you can't go wrong with a classic Tone Bender. I recently built one on turret board and stuck it in a wedge box I had from years ago. If you want a good and simple silicon one try the Mictester on Tagboardeffects or the Scarab Deluxe.
Deletethanks again, will try them!
DeletePeople! This is AMAZING FUZZ so many great sounds! I dont know why, but it performed way better and stable after I boxed it. It very much reacts on guitar settings (tone and volume) must be direct connected from pickup. And eah I dont think that it behave the same as original, but definitely amazing!
DeleteWith JJJ's adjustments everything works except filter "C" middle position. And in drift mode it oscilates much faster and crazy then original (I used proper germaniums with proper hfe and bias adjustments...) Maybe because of my ge diod (d9j) but I used very close to recommended specs diod... Maybe there is something wrong with "Scan" pot because it directly infect on oscillation and even very tiny adjustments infect a lot but after 40% scan - goodbye, hello total crazy oscillation...
This comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteHi Cyberstrannik, I'm glad the corrections worked for you. Regarding the drift switch, if you check the diagram, you'll see that drift switch 4 goes to the collector of Q3, connected to 470k, 330nF, and 1k on Q22. I've been tinkering a bit, trying different diodes for D3, and the drift coupling depends a lot on this diode. I also tried different diodes for D1, including two in parallel, which significantly reduces the oscillation, giving more leeway before it starts oscillating. These diodes greatly affect the drift, reducing it to almost half before it goes haywire, but it's very interactive with the other controls, as you mentioned. It sounds great, although I haven't been able to solve the filter issue. I don't understand why it's connected the way fuzzhead put it in the schematic. Anyway, I'll figure it out, and maybe someday someone will discover the problem. But for what I want it for, it works very well: noise, synths, and a bit of chaos. Hehehe, a big hug everyone and thank you so much for giving us the opportunity to be self-taught in many cases and to share this passion, thank you so much!
DeleteMan, you Rock! I also found a lot of great sounds with filter in central C position, and stacking DBA Evil filter after, adding a big amount of resonances and then in Short delay... I got amazing sounds, smt empty, metal, fuzzy very beautiful...
DeleteI'm glad, man. You're saying the filter works in the center? How did you manage it? What did you do?
DeleteYour comment made me think of adding something in that section, like putting a circuit from 36 nF, where it's disconnected, down to 12 nF. Is that what you did?
Thank u very for this layout! Hope somebody more experienced than me can verify it!
ReplyDeleteSumming up JJJ-s adjustments
ReplyDelete1- extra cut on F - 17
2- 4.7nf Cap must be changed on 4.7nf Polarised Cap (with minus (-) directed to E (emiter) of Q3
3 - XF Bypass Sw 1 a XF Bypass Sw 2 change each other
4 - Drift Sw 4 goes 4 rows down on Q - 22