After looking at the schematic for this, and also watching some demos of the original, I think the row that is labelled with "optional output jack 2" is actually for the extra INPUT jack meant for high output/active bass pickups. Which seems a little unnecessary on the part of the designer to include an entire second input jack when it would have been easier to just add the 330 ohm resistor to an SPST and connect that to the input. Single in jack, with a toggle to add resistance for loud pickups. Anyway - according to the schematic, there is an additional "clean/through" output but I believe THAT one is just wired off of the input jack, the way a "through" 1/4" would be wired on a passive direct box. Definitely want to build this one, though - it seems like a lot of the functionality comes from the offboard wiring. It's also worth noting that the FSB schematic has alternate values for three of the caps: the 56nF at the input can be upped to 100nF, and the two 100nF caps can both be upped to 220nF. For MORE... something.
I think that if you were to get an SPDT on/on toggle and wire leg one to the row marked "Output Jack 2" and leg three to the row marked "Input" and then use leg two of the toggle as your input, you would them be able to toggle between active and passive pickup resistance.
i tried it ; it does not do a lot, as soon as i get an active bass the drive is there, with passive bass no drive at all, seems the input signal needs to be boosted for passive bass to get a decent drive
1) I would probably try to boost the input signal by reducing the value of the 39k resistor that is going into pin 2 of the IC. 2)You said that you all ready increased the value of the 360k resistor that is in the loop of that side of the op amp, why not try a higher value like 470k and see what happens?
when i check other layouts (https://effectslayouts.blogspot.com/2015/03/hao-rust-driver.html) and (https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/02/hao-rust-driver-from-updated-schematic.html) they both have a 33k resistor from pin 2 to a 10k resistor and then 56nf cap. the original pedal has two input jacks and two output jacks (https://reverb.com/au/item/75962731-hao-rust-ride-bass-driver-guitar-effect-pedal-0303rr0251) will try what you suggested
ok. i changed the 39k for a 10k and the 360k (390k) for a 33k and there is drive with passive bass but not with the two 100nf caps, sinec i have added a switch with 100n/150n/220n cap i can change the cap value, with 100nf there is (with passive bass) no drive but when you switch to 220 there is! with active bass there is a bit drive with 100n a littel more with 120n and full drive with 220n. also there was i nthe beginning some kind of distortion/noise sound in the background which seems to be gone now.
Anders, please tag this. I’ve built it and it works fine and sounds similar to YouTube demos. I’ve incorporated a jfet (2n5458) clean blend in my layout, adding two rows to accommodate additional components. This is definitely an interesting circuit with some ratty tones available.
Tagged. I will update the layout once I figure out how to incorporatee the four jacks with the bypass switching. Your idea with the clean blend sounds neat!
Magus, I tried both passive and active. It was less effective with the active bass, with less gain. With passive pickups, gain is substantial. It actually gets a nice sounding fuzzy distortion with guitar as well.
thats so weird , for me this layout really kicks with active pickups , not so much with passive , will have to reserve this one for active bass i guess. luckily i have more than enough to choose from for passive pickups. thx for your reply!
After looking at the schematic for this, and also watching some demos of the original, I think the row that is labelled with "optional output jack 2" is actually for the extra INPUT jack meant for high output/active bass pickups. Which seems a little unnecessary on the part of the designer to include an entire second input jack when it would have been easier to just add the 330 ohm resistor to an SPST and connect that to the input. Single in jack, with a toggle to add resistance for loud pickups. Anyway - according to the schematic, there is an additional "clean/through" output but I believe THAT one is just wired off of the input jack, the way a "through" 1/4" would be wired on a passive direct box. Definitely want to build this one, though - it seems like a lot of the functionality comes from the offboard wiring. It's also worth noting that the FSB schematic has alternate values for three of the caps: the 56nF at the input can be upped to 100nF, and the two 100nF caps can both be upped to 220nF. For MORE... something.
ReplyDeleteworks! just build it and tested , works perfectly! used a 250k b and a 390k resistor instead of the 360k!
ReplyDeleteadded an extra switch so it is possible to switch between 100nf/150nf/220nf
ReplyDeleteand have to add that only with active bass there is a drive , with passive bass there's no drive
ReplyDeletetry bypassing the 330 ohm resistor and going straight into the 56nF capacitor for passive pickups.
DeleteI think that if you were to get an SPDT on/on toggle and wire leg one to the row marked "Output Jack 2" and leg three to the row marked "Input" and then use leg two of the toggle as your input, you would them be able to toggle between active and passive pickup resistance.
Deletei tried it ; it does not do a lot, as soon as i get an active bass the drive is there, with passive bass no drive at all, seems the input signal needs to be boosted for passive bass to get a decent drive
Delete1) I would probably try to boost the input signal by reducing the value of the 39k resistor that is going into pin 2 of the IC.
Delete2)You said that you all ready increased the value of the 360k resistor that is in the loop of that side of the op amp, why not try a higher value like 470k and see what happens?
when i check other layouts (https://effectslayouts.blogspot.com/2015/03/hao-rust-driver.html) and (https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/02/hao-rust-driver-from-updated-schematic.html) they both have a 33k resistor from pin 2 to a 10k resistor and then 56nf cap. the original pedal has two input jacks and two output jacks (https://reverb.com/au/item/75962731-hao-rust-ride-bass-driver-guitar-effect-pedal-0303rr0251) will try what you suggested
Deleteok. i changed the 39k for a 10k and the 360k (390k) for a 33k and there is drive with passive bass but not with the two 100nf caps, sinec i have added a switch with 100n/150n/220n cap i can change the cap value, with 100nf there is (with passive bass) no drive but when you switch to 220 there is! with active bass there is a bit drive with 100n a littel more with 120n and full drive with 220n. also there was i nthe beginning some kind of distortion/noise sound in the background which seems to be gone now.
Deletethere is som hissing when not playing so need to see to fitler it out or make it less
Deleteit still sounds best with active bass
Deletemakes sense when you think about it , i will try it later on and will report back !
ReplyDeleteAnders, please tag this. I’ve built it and it works fine and sounds similar to YouTube demos. I’ve incorporated a jfet (2n5458) clean blend in my layout, adding two rows to accommodate additional components. This is definitely an interesting circuit with some ratty tones available.
ReplyDeleteTagged. I will update the layout once I figure out how to incorporatee the four jacks with the bypass switching.
DeleteYour idea with the clean blend sounds neat!
do you use active or passive bass? with active it is everything you say for me but with passive not so
DeleteMagus, I tried both passive and active. It was less effective with the active bass, with less gain. With passive pickups, gain is substantial. It actually gets a nice sounding fuzzy distortion with guitar as well.
Deletethats so weird , for me this layout really kicks with active pickups , not so much with passive , will have to reserve this one for active bass i guess. luckily i have more than enough to choose from for passive pickups. thx for your reply!
Delete