Sorry for missing your question...but I have a very limited access to the blog at the moment due to lots of work during the pandemic.
To answer your question which I can't....I don't have a solution since I'm not too familiar with XR2260 chip. Someone else might chip in? Maybe a cap to ground somewhere around the chip?
whoa, fuzzhead puts a lot of hardwork here for free to get this kind of comment? Well, try the layout, and if it doesn't work, try to work it out and do a nice contribution to the blog
«Well, try the layout, and if it doesn't work, try to work it out and do a nice contribution to the blog»
Yeah, that's the spirit!
And we all should do a bit more in that area. A lot more, indeed, if we aim to stand at Fuzzhead level. He gaves immensely and gets peanuts most of the time.
Just built this and it sounds great. Just one thing. Is it normal that the mod depth has to be up somewhat for the delay section to be active? With all the mod controls on 0 the delay won't work, but if i turn up the mod depth the delay controls start working, mix included. Also when I turn up the mod depth it comes in with a loud pop that triggers the delay.
Oh crap, sorry about this, but I posted on the wrong page. How I don't know, but I was thinking i'd posted on the Earthquaker Space Spiral page. Must have been having a stupid moment!
I've been messing around with my Echo Dream II clone and I think the modulation shape switch is not wired right. The way it's wired, you don't have two different wave shapes, you have modulation on and off. I've been testing and I think the right way to wire it goes like this, considering the DPDT lug numbers as 1 2 3 4 5 6
Where the layout says "Switch 1", you actually wire it to lug 3, where it says "Switch 2", wire to lug 4. 4 and 5 goes to 1 and 2, and 3 and 6 goes to 5 and 6. Nevermind about the pot orientations, they are right
Please send me your email and I'll send you some pictures of how the wiring for the DPDT should go. The way it's shown it turns the modulation on and off but in the original it changes between two different wave shapes
Hello guys, right now I'm in the middle of sourcing all the parts. I have all the ic's (to072 instead of mc). My questions are: Can i use 1n5818 instead of 5817? If im using poly caps, can i replace 1uf elec with wima? Can i power it up with 18v and leave the ICL7660s outside of the board? Or do i need 9v somewhere? Sorry for the noob questions, thank you very much for doing this!
Yes, 1N5817 will work just fine and using 1uF WIMA caps is fine as well. If you want to ditch the onbard charge pump, you need to remove some parts and add a jumper and no...no part of the circuit itself requires 9v.
1: replace D1 with a jumper. 2: Omit 10uF cap at the bottom left. 3: Omit the cut under D2 and omit D2 itself.
thank you very very much, Fuzzhead. right now i have all the parts besides the two reverse log pots, so i started to populate the board. desided to use the charge pump after all. i have a couple of noob questions regarding jumper symbols: the two jumpers under the PT2399. the right one goes from B19 to P19, correct? and the left one is a connection between C18, F18, G18 and L18? again, thank you very much :)
Checked the batch numbers on the photos and they advertise 0730 and 0919 - both "bad" batches. I'm thinking to just do the Madbean Memory Man instead, I've heard its better than the Echo Dream but its huge
The Echo Dream is unique and I do like it. But its really only good for lo-fi sounds. The Deluxe Memory Man is probably my overall favorite effect. As far as 2399 based delay, the 1776 is also interesting. Dunno if you've tried that one.
Madbean Memory Man it is I think, the demos sound really good for a PT2399 based delay. One of these days I will actually play my guitar too, instead of making pedals.
Just checked a few youtube videos and its pretty much exactly the same - top job Anders. The funny thing is, I used a batch 0919 chip which is supposed to be a bad batch. Maybe I got lucky!!
I take everything back, this thing is wild. There are some quite amazing settings. Tom, you have to build this - I don't think it's too fussy about the XR2206 (I bought batch 0919 from eBay and 0918 from somewhere in Germany and its working well with the eBay chip).
I was surprised that you didn't like it at first. In my mind you're the resident DBA expert. I have one. I built it maybe a year ago from a fabricated board. I like the Echo Dream, especially that weird modulation pattern that it does but honestly, I never use it.
Managed to get hold of a genuine XR2206 from Retroamplis.com and it's a different pedal now. Gone is the dark muffled modulation, the square wave is much more pronounced and it just sounds much brighter. It's still an over hyped pedal though!! Pitch Pirate Deluxe is an easier and cheaper build and sounds just as good (if you don't need the square wave)
I'm sure you're right. I never heard the hype exactly. I just loved the sound I heard in demos. But I may try the DPP. I do love the four knob Pirate. I always wanted a Caroline Kilobyte and a Skreddy Echo too. I wonder what's inside those guys...
hi guys, i found a mistake in the layout. The 1k input resistor should go to IC1 pin3, not pin2 that it is. That made my pedal more open, without any tone loss. Moreover, with fuzz pot totaly ccw, master and delay fully cw you should now have unity gain, something that wasn't even close before. Finally, white sound and cracking noises with delay time pot maxed have gone. In fact there is a small noise but that's how the pedal should be!
I can confirm the above - remember to put the resistor to pin 3 of the first IC (I used an LM358 instead of the MC-opamp).
When I wrote my comment above I thouht it was supposed to be that lo-fi, as others have noted. And I never got to box it.
But now I revisited it, it reeeally opened up the delay (obviously, now that the highs aren't going to ground via the tiny cap). And obviously it still is pretty lo-fi with a PT2399.
I'm going to have to disagree with the 1K to pin 3. I tested this on my build, and when the modulator is on square wave / full speed there is an audible ticking. This makes the pedal pretty much useless. 1K to pin 2 = no ticking
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteSorry for missing your question...but I have a very limited access to the blog at the moment due to lots of work during the pandemic.
DeleteTo answer your question which I can't....I don't have a solution since I'm not too familiar with XR2260 chip. Someone else might chip in? Maybe a cap to ground somewhere around the chip?
whoa, fuzzhead puts a lot of hardwork here for free to get this kind of comment? Well, try the layout, and if it doesn't work, try to work it out and do a nice contribution to the blog
DeleteI am not English, I serve the google translator, I apologize if I said something inappropriate, it was not my intention, if not to help.
ReplyDeleteFuzzhead as I have told you many times in this forum, thanks for your great work, sorry if I said something inappropriate.
ReplyDeleteNo worries man. Things often don't comes through as intended when texting and the language barrier makes things worse. No harm done.:-)
Delete«Well, try the layout, and if it doesn't work, try to work it out and do a nice contribution to the blog»
ReplyDeleteYeah, that's the spirit!
And we all should do a bit more in that area. A lot more, indeed, if we aim to stand at Fuzzhead level. He gaves immensely and gets peanuts most of the time.
I mean "he gives" (f**** keyboard dyslexia, ungfh!...)
ReplyDeleteJust built this and it sounds great. Just one thing. Is it normal that the mod depth has to be up somewhat for the delay section to be active? With all the mod controls on 0 the delay won't work, but if i turn up the mod depth the delay controls start working, mix included. Also when I turn up the mod depth it comes in with a loud pop that triggers the delay.
ReplyDeleteHmmm, I have never played one so I don't if it is normal. Anyone that have any experience?
DeleteI'll take a look at the schematic, especially the mod section.
Oh crap, sorry about this, but I posted on the wrong page. How I don't know, but I was thinking i'd posted on the Earthquaker Space Spiral page. Must have been having a stupid moment!
DeleteSome pots are reversed and the wave whape is wired wrong, otherwise the layout is verified. I'll make a list with the corrections
ReplyDeleteGreat! I'll make the corrections as soon as you post them here. Thanks for verifying this one!
DeleteI've been messing around with my Echo Dream II clone and I think the modulation shape switch is not wired right. The way it's wired, you don't have two different wave shapes, you have modulation on and off. I've been testing and I think the right way to wire it goes like this, considering the DPDT lug numbers as
ReplyDelete1 2
3 4
5 6
Where the layout says "Switch 1", you actually wire it to lug 3, where it says "Switch 2", wire to lug 4. 4 and 5 goes to 1 and 2, and 3 and 6 goes to 5 and 6. Nevermind about the pot orientations, they are right
Good to know the pot lug numbers is corrct, it matches the schematics I've found.
DeleteSwitch lug numbering though....
I always label them in the following order for DPDT switch:
1 4
2 5
3 6
It is easier to keep the A and B poles separate that way.
Please send me your email and I'll send you some pictures of how the wiring for the DPDT should go. The way it's shown it turns the modulation on and off but in the original it changes between two different wave shapes
ReplyDeleteyou can send the pictures to this email:
Deleteanders.sjodal at gmail.com
Hello guys, right now I'm in the middle of sourcing all the parts. I have all the ic's (to072 instead of mc). My questions are:
ReplyDeleteCan i use 1n5818 instead of 5817?
If im using poly caps, can i replace 1uf elec with wima?
Can i power it up with 18v and leave the ICL7660s outside of the board? Or do i need 9v somewhere?
Sorry for the noob questions, thank you very much for doing this!
Yes, 1N5817 will work just fine and using 1uF WIMA caps is fine as well. If you want to ditch the onbard charge pump, you need to remove some parts and add a jumper and no...no part of the circuit itself requires 9v.
Delete1: replace D1 with a jumper.
2: Omit 10uF cap at the bottom left.
3: Omit the cut under D2 and omit D2 itself.
thank you very very much, Fuzzhead. right now i have all the parts besides the two reverse log pots, so i started to populate the board. desided to use the charge pump after all. i have a couple of noob questions regarding jumper symbols:
Deletethe two jumpers under the PT2399. the right one goes from B19 to P19, correct? and the left one is a connection between C18, F18, G18 and L18?
again, thank you very much :)
Yes, you are correct ton both. The black dots is known as "double links" A.K.A. two links in shared hole.
DeleteAnyone know where to get XR2206P ICs from? Cheers
ReplyDeleteLooks like you are in the UK, so not sure if it would be a viable option, but Jameco in California has some.
Deletehttps://www.jameco.com/z/XR2206CP-EXAR-Corporation-IC-XR2206CP-Monolithic-Function-Generator_34972.html
Thanks mate, have you ever bought any from jameco. So many fakes around and they are pretty expensive its hard to figure out what to buy. Many thanks
ReplyDeleteI have bought IC's from Jameco before, but not those specific IC's.
DeleteI didn't check if he had more in stock but I found one on Ebay from polida2008. Worth a look. Not a fake.
ReplyDeletepolida2008 is usually pretty good, might have a gamble. Cheers Tom
DeleteChecked the batch numbers on the photos and they advertise 0730 and 0919 - both "bad" batches. I'm thinking to just do the Madbean Memory Man instead, I've heard its better than the Echo Dream but its huge
ReplyDeleteThe Echo Dream is unique and I do like it. But its really only good for lo-fi sounds. The Deluxe Memory Man is probably my overall favorite effect. As far as 2399 based delay, the 1776 is also interesting. Dunno if you've tried that one.
ReplyDeleteMadbean Memory Man it is I think, the demos sound really good for a PT2399 based delay. One of these days I will actually play my guitar too, instead of making pedals.
ReplyDeleteThe Space Spiral is also a nice pt2399 build.
ReplyDeleteOK, here we go. Wish me luck!!!
ReplyDeleteAnders... is it 66 cuts. Cheers
DeleteGood luck. I know somebody with a real one of these and I'm very jealous!
ReplyDeleteVerify this one Anders, fired up first time and it works a treat. As Tom said, this is very Lo-Fi stuff but still a decent effect.
ReplyDeleteJust checked a few youtube videos and its pretty much exactly the same - top job Anders. The funny thing is, I used a batch 0919 chip which is supposed to be a bad batch. Maybe I got lucky!!
DeleteThe more I mess with this, the more I realise that its not that great. Pitch Pirate Deluxe is way better imho
DeleteIt does what it does. It doesn't do everything. But its cool for weird LoFi sounds. I like the PP but I get a clock tick with mine.
ReplyDeleteDefinitely a case of DBA hype on this one
ReplyDeleteI take everything back, this thing is wild. There are some quite amazing settings. Tom, you have to build this - I don't think it's too fussy about the XR2206 (I bought batch 0919 from eBay and 0918 from somewhere in Germany and its working well with the eBay chip).
ReplyDeleteI was surprised that you didn't like it at first. In my mind you're the resident DBA expert. I have one. I built it maybe a year ago from a fabricated board. I like the Echo Dream, especially that weird modulation pattern that it does but honestly, I never use it.
ReplyDeleteManaged to get hold of a genuine XR2206 from Retroamplis.com and it's a different pedal now. Gone is the dark muffled modulation, the square wave is much more pronounced and it just sounds much brighter.
DeleteIt's still an over hyped pedal though!! Pitch Pirate Deluxe is an easier and cheaper build and sounds just as good (if you don't need the square wave)
I'm sure you're right. I never heard the hype exactly. I just loved the sound I heard in demos. But I may try the DPP. I do love the four knob Pirate. I always wanted a Caroline Kilobyte and a Skreddy Echo too. I wonder what's inside those guys...
DeleteBTDubs Ian, dunno if you've built it yet, but I personally am a big fan of the Demo Tape Fuzz by Mid-Fi.
ReplyDeleteI second Demo Tape Fuzz. Very cool sounding circuit!
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeletehi guys, i found a mistake in the layout. The 1k input resistor should go to IC1 pin3, not pin2 that it is. That made my pedal more open, without any tone loss. Moreover, with fuzz pot totaly ccw, master and delay fully cw you should now have unity gain, something that wasn't even close before. Finally, white sound and cracking noises with delay time pot maxed have gone. In fact there is a small noise but that's how the pedal should be!
ReplyDeleteI can confirm the above - remember to put the resistor to pin 3 of the first IC (I used an LM358 instead of the MC-opamp).
DeleteWhen I wrote my comment above I thouht it was supposed to be that lo-fi, as others have noted. And I never got to box it.
But now I revisited it, it reeeally opened up the delay (obviously, now that the highs aren't going to ground via the tiny cap). And obviously it still is pretty lo-fi with a PT2399.
I'm going to have to disagree with the 1K to pin 3. I tested this on my build, and when the modulator is on square wave / full speed there is an audible ticking. This makes the pedal pretty much useless. 1K to pin 2 = no ticking
ReplyDelete